Greasing drive- & half- shafts

[TomoHawk]

1978 280Z, 3spd Auto.

Is there a way to know IF you can grease your drive shaft & axle sahafts? I think I read somewhere that there were ones you could and couldn't grease.

Thx.

[26th-Z]

The U-joint casting will have a grease nipple if it is meant to be serviced. Check each joint in the drive and half shafts and you should see a small grease nipple from the + piece between the shaft yokes. Clean it off and use a common grease gun to apply grease, rotating the shaft to get the best clearance on the nipple. I'm sure we could get into a rauchous converstation about what kind of grease to use, but any common suspension grease will do. Once filled, the grease will start coming out of the four ends of the u-joint. Wipe it all down nice and clean or the grease will spin off and on to your car.

If you don't find a grease fitting, it could be missing; look for a hole, the u-joint was not meant to be serviced. I have used both types and can't report any longevity difference. I seem to go through half shafts so often, I bought a spare set of shafts.

You will notice the joints going bad by clicking from the axle shafts when you start out in first gear. Very, very slowly let out the clutch with no throttle until the car just begins to roll. You will hear perhaps a series of clicks as each u-joint reacts to the torque. Loud, noticable clicks are bad and mean the joint needs to be replaced.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by TomoHawk

1978 280Z, 3spd Auto.

Is there a way to know IF you can grease your drive shaft & axle sahafts? I think I read somewhere that there were ones you could and couldn't grease.

Thx.

Only way I know to tell IF you can grease them is IF they have grease fittings built into them.

I have been told that the 280Z Driveshafts came with u Joints that were not servicable, but I have only owned 240Z's.

[TomoHawk]

So they just expect you to toss out the driveshat & axle shafts if they go dry?? What kind of dumb logic is that??

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by TomoHawk

So they just expect you to toss out the driveshat & axle shafts if they go dry?? What kind of dumb logic is that??

Well, the idea was that the u-Joints were sealed and the lubrication from the factory was sufficient for the "lifetime" of the product. I have heard that SOME drivshaft shops will remove the U-joints that are not serviceable and install ones that can be serviced. Not sure what the cost is VS a new driveshaft.

Many U joints that you can buy over the counter do not have provision to grease them. Having said that............you get what you pay for. I would always spend a bit more for the ones with Zerk fittings, myself.

PS Auto manufacturers stand tomake far more money on the mantainance of a car than they do on the initial product purchase.

[2ManyZs]

Bambi is right, the 280's came with non-greasable U-joints from 75-78....

As far as them needing replacement often? Nope, my old 75 still has the originals in it. Been raced since 89 and was a street car with over 120K on it before it went on the track.

It's my opinion that the non-serviceable sealed U-joints are actually better than the aftermarket replacements in one respect. 9 out of 10 people when greasing the U-joints force too much grease into them, thereby ruining the seals which ends up cutting into the life of the joints.

If your seals are dry, and there is no play in the joint, just keep a watch on them and only replace them when you see wetness, which would indicate the seals have started to leak, and it won't be long before the needle bearings will be running without as much lube as they need, which is what will start the wear that requires replacing the joint.

Also, if you were to lay a 240 and 280 joint side by side, you would see that the 280 is slightly larger and stronger. The 280 units can be replaced, but will more than likely require a press to get them out.

[260DET]

Originally posted by TomoHawk

So they just expect you to toss out the driveshat & axle shafts if they go dry?? What kind of dumb logic is that??

The original tailshaft in my '77 has sealed Ujoints and is still going strong, despite now having to handle twice the torque.

[Gav240z]

Somewhere in 75 is when they made the switch. I have to replace mine on the 72 240z soon. I've been debating an upgrade to 300zx(Z31) CV Halfshafts or going with rebuilt Uni's.

I originally didn't like the non servicable uni's but thinking about it they seem a better idea, alot of people put uni's back in incorrectly and this puts the driveshaft out of balance.

I didn't know that over lubing them was a bad idea.

Does this apply to ball joints and tie rods also?

[abas]

Originally posted by 2ManyZs

Also, if you were to lay a 240 and 280 joint side by side, you would see that the 280 is slightly larger and stronger. The 280 units can be replaced, but will more than likely require a press to get them out.

So you can remove the UJ's on 240z driveshafts without a press? How would you go about doing that? Is it something that can be done by your average DIY'er?

[Gav240z]

I wouldn't recommend it, you need to remove the circlips on the inside which is fidley enough, then you need to use a drift to wack them out or pop them out.

I found I damaged the shafts hitting them with a hammer and in future would definately get them pressed for the time and aggrovation you'd save.

Luckily I no longer have that car as it was in an accident, so I learnt my lesson, same with CV joints on FWD cars I'll always buy the entire shaft rather than save a couple of $$$ on just replacing a CV.:classic: