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very hard starting.....


Uncle Punchy

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it is very hard to start my 1972 240z it will not idle unless i feather the gas....and it takes a while of constintaly turning it over to even alow me to feather the gas......

is this a problem with the carbs?....or....

it will take me around 20 mins just to get it to idle in a cold morn.....and i live in san diego calif....i cant imagine what it would be like wher eit snows.....geez

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Do you use the manual choke? if you do and it is still doing that, then you either need the choke lubed and adjusted, or your ignition points are closed up and need to be replaced. I have the exact same problem. Two words for you: electronic ignition!

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Assuming your points are good and set correctly/plugs are correct type and gap,here's the check list.On the air cleaner there is a large hose that goes to the exhaust manifold.This sucks heat to help when cold.Make sure is is not broken/disconnected.Check your choke cables and make sure they are really moving the chokes.I have had one get loose and caused a one carb choke,one not.Make sure you are getting full choke.The cables get stiff and can fool you.One trick for fixing that is disconnect the cables from the carbs.Cut a plastic drinking straw in half.Place the straw over the cable ends and duct tape to the cable.Bend a coat hanger to secure the cables and hang it from the latch on your open hood.Put oil into the straw and let it sit overnight.The next morning one finger will move the cables!!You may wish to pull your ashtray and slip some paper towels as best you can under the choke knob and slip some under console in that area as the oil will leak some.You don't need much oil.I usually use about 1/4 to 1/2 inch in the straw.The next item SU's love!!Remove the plastic carb tops.Remove the 4 screws that hold the "bell" on the carb.when you remove it slowlyand straight up pull the piston out.Do one carb at a time to keep the parts from getting mixed up.DO NOT set them on the needles.This is real easy.clean/replace.Replace lightweight oil/sae20 inthe carb tops.This is very basic very easy and the only way to screw up is to bend the needle.The piston has a slot in it and will one go in one way it is very visable.Have Fun!!! Daniel

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If you are not using the choke that would do it.

If you are using the choke I agree that this is most likely either a choke cable issue or an adjustment issue, ex. one carb may be getting more fuel than the other when the choke is used. Check with the engine not running. Take the air cleaner off and have someone actuate the choke inside the car while you watch the action at the carbs. The choke should pull down the fuel nozzels at the bottom of the carbs equally and when the choke is turned off should return both fuel nozzels upward to the bottom of the adjustment wheel.

This may also be a general engine tune issue (carb setting, points, timing, plugs, etc.) Another common problem I have had with the choke is that one carb fuel nozzel would stick when the choke is released so I would have to reach under the carb and push the fuel nossel back up into place. However, when this happens you will know because the car will run very ruff even after being warming up, if it runs at all.

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Although the book says sae20 only for the carbs .If you use marvel mystery oil or auto transmission fluid every now and then your piston stays cleaner and your choke nozzles don't stick.I have a mechanic friend that loves to get tranny jobs on friday 'cause it cleans up his hands so well for the weekend!Same principal!

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i had the same problem with my 72 240z a while back. i though it odd especially since i live in orange county. it wound up being the manual choke. just had to do some adjusting and then i worked beautifully. when the choke is pulled back, it should begin to rev the engine and then u just drive it like that for 5-10 mins and it should be fine.

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