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Lug nut torque


BillD

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I would think that 60 - 70 ft. lbs. would be plenty. They could take lots more but it really isn't necessary. I have raced a production car for many years, not a Z but similar weight and horspower to the Z, and use 65 ft. lbs. for my torque spec. Most Chilton or Haynes manuals have a torque specification page that gives you the max torque for a bolt based on the size and type of bolt. I suspect this could be a guideline for studs as well. Be sure to use some antiseize on the threads to keep them in good condition.

FYI... my Honda dealer says that improper torque settings could cause brake rotor warping! I suspect this is true if the lugs are not torqued consistenly and probably only applies to cars where the rotor mounting surface is between the hub and the wheel, like on many of the newer cars. I don't think this would be the case with the first generation Z cars since the rotor is mounted to the rear of the wheel hub. But yet another good reason to check the torque those lugnuts once in a while.

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I checked the manual and found the following:

To tighten Datsun Z wheel lugnuts to maximum torque: Use a torque wrench and tighten lugnuts to 65 ft. lbs. If a torque wrench is not available use a 2" long 1/2" drive breaker bar and tighten until threads begin to strip, then back the lugnut off 1/4 turn! ;-)

Have fun!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The same specification will be fine for alloy wheels. I have tried to remove lug nuts put on my steel and alloy wheels by tire shops, that use air wrenches, that were tightened way over 120ft. lbs. In one case I figured it out after I broke my 3/4" to 1/2" socket adapter trying to loosen them.

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If it is anything like my front tire then the previous owner thought you should tighten them to about 682lbs of pressure. I was actually bending the tire iron and it still was not coming off. Dang PO.

SuDZ

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