I'm in the process of "cleaning up" the engine in my 73 240 for autocross/road race application. It looks like the prior owner removed the air pump and capped quite a few of the ports used for somg hoses and the such. I want to finish the job by removing all unnecessary equipment, hoses, etc. Are there any parts that I should or should not remove?? I am pretty confused. (Air Galley, antibackfire valve, smog tee, egr, ect.)

Check out my ITS engine -- you can see that all I have left hooked up for tubes are:

- From the manifold tube to the brake assist

- From the valve cover to a dump can

- From the crankcase breather to a dump can

Originally, I cut the the air injector tubes, which led into the exhaust manifold, with a pair of diagonal cutters (dikes). Then I folded and crimped the tubes. This worked, but I still wasn't happy aestetically, with the rusty exhaust manifold. Installing a Jet-Hot coated MSA 6-1 header finished the job, removing all traces that the AIR system ever existed.

Got to remember to take a photo from the other side!

You guys are truly awesome!!!! A picture really says a thousand words, I can't thank you enough for the awesome (and quick!!) replies. Now I have some smog stuff to remove!!

Dan

Hey Rick - What do the braided hoses go to?

- Jeff

The line from the fuel pres. isolator to the gauge inside the driver's compartment is filled with anti-freeze. This keeps all of the fuel inside the engine compartment. The isolator has a rubber bladder inside that transfers the pressure reading.

The line from the isolator was much too long, that's why it's coiled up on the way to the regulator.

There is a spin on adapter that threads onto the block where the oil filter goes. It has two fittings where I run one line up to the remote filter and then to the cooler and then back to the engine.

On my E-Prod car I'm going to do things more neatly -- and use braided lines for the fuel lines too. Much safer than rubber.

At least you'll have more room to move things around in the EP car without the battery in the way...

And the brake boost is gone too -- I'm going to use Tilton brake pedals and master cylinders that mount on the inside of the firewall.

What about on a 280Z? I've really wanted to clean up my engine bay, and all those smog wires and valves are really hideous. If my car ever becomes smog exempt, what can I remove without disrupting the performance of my car?

Originally posted by Pennyman

What about on a 280Z? I've really wanted to clean up my engine bay, and all those smog wires and valves are really hideous. If my car ever becomes smog exempt, what can I remove without disrupting the performance of my car?

Much harder on a 280. All that "stuff" ends up inputting to the electronic fuel injection brain, which controls the injector duration. Most of it probably has to be left in place and working. Unlike the 240Z air injection system, most of it also doesn't take away anything from the engine's performance (the 240 air pump takes power to drive it).

I've taken a few things off already, like the EGR valve stuff & the dashpot. Anything with wires or a vacuum line going to the intake gets a closer look. Just remember NOT to unbolt the ground wire for the injectors!! (bolted to intake). :stupid: