Eastwood has a vibratory cleaner type system that purports to clean and polish old hardware. It isn't cheap (at all), and I can't see paying that kind of $$ for it, but it sounds like the type of thing that Victor is talking about. They also have some stuff to replate hardware, but unless you're in business to do it, it seems really pricey.

Link to Vibratory Tumbler is here if you're interested.

there is a similar discussion going on a motorbike mailing list I susbscribe to. In this case to do with derusting the inside of fuel tanks. One Intriguing rust removal method suggested is the submersion of items in molasses to remove all traces of rust.!!!!

Seems to take quite a while though and pretty messy I would guess but could be useful for derusting nuts and bolts.

thanks for the feedback guys. I found this one at Harbor Freight for half the price of Eastwood. Do you think its worth spending the extra bucks?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46376

Looks like a pretty fair price if you ask me.. doubt you'll find one much cheaper than that.

I looked them up in my shooting catalog and they are about 62 in there.. so about the same as Eastwoods....

That's exactly what you are looking for. At the price, it will probably last long enough to do your car.

I think we are talking about two things, though. How to get the rust off and what to do when you get the rust off. For certain, the cleaned piece will surface rust within months. I think this method is ideal for body bolts and other fasteners that will be paint finished. You could always clear coat the exposed end once it is in place. But short of plating, the fastener is going to rust. If you are going to plate the hardware, there is no point getting the tumbler.

Thanks for your response. I was going to use it stricktly for nuts and bolts that I couldnt find replacements for. I also going to use for very small parts that I was going to restore with new paint.

Thanks again.

Mark

If you want to try a vibratory method, you could get an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner and fill it withl a slurry of water & some kind of granular cleaner (dishwasher detergant, small bb's or some sandblasting agent?)

Don't use something that will make the surface rough- you just want to knock the rust off.

Having observed a molasses tank in action, I can say for a non-abrasive method of cleaning its positively great at removing all the build ups on metal parts, but takes ages. Muck simpler is to go down to your local engine rebuilder, and bribe them to let you hang stuff in their cleaning tank, removes absolutely everything and is quick and fairly cheap.

I bought mine at Hobby Lobby for $20. I will probably use new hardware on this beast, but small items that will be painted I may try the rock tumbler.

Tumbler sounds like a good idea. I have a bead blasting cabinet and it is a pain to bead blast lots of little parts. Once the stuff is cleaned up, I pickle the parts in phosphoric acid to remove any residue that will inhibit the plating process. I plate with some electro less nickle plate like what is sold here . Otherwise the part will flash rust again in a few days.

In addition to the plating solution, you will need a hotplate, candy thermometer and pyrex cup. Heat this solution up to about 195 degrees F, drop your stuff in for about 1/2 hour for a nice thick coat of nickle. If your hardware is too big to fully submerse if the cup, you can do one end, then turn it over and do the other end. New hardware is cheaper if you can find it, but some hardware is just not available anymore.

--John B

If you use a rock tumber on nuts, won't it round off the corners? You'd want them to be sharp to fit the socket/wrench.

I'm interested on how the chemical "CLR" works on rust.

I just used CLR on the clutch hose retainer and clip on my series 1, they were all nasty and rusted. Completely covered inside and out in rust.

It took the rust right off!!!!!! It was like the rust was paint and the CLR was paint stripper. The rust lifted off the parts in chunks and sheets and left the metal clean and slightly pitted where the rust was really bad.

The retaining clip (spring steel "U" shaped clip) was actually blackened by the CLR. Had to scrub the black stuff off with dish soap and a tooth brush.

It took about 24hrs for the CLR to really work, when i got home from work the clip was fizzing in the CLR so I figured it was time to take it out.