Blinker's use too much juice

[Victor Laury]

I've been trying to solve this problem myself, with no success. My turn signals really draw the juice! the amp meter swings crazy when I signal to turn. The dash lights, the "choke on" light (which is on all the time. another problem) and heater fan dims/slows in beat with the flashes.

I have checked grounds, removed the steering collunm shrowd to check connections and renewed the fuses and cleaned fuse terminals.

Any hints?

[mwz]

Victor,

This may sound odd, but I had a very similar problem on a Nissan pickup and it turned out that the alternator output was low. I can't recall the specifics :stupid: but it was a charging system issue.

Good luck.

Chloe

[Victor Laury]

Thanks Chloe,

It's a brand new 60 watt unit and a new VR. The old Alt wasn't the problem as I changed it and nothing changed. And, as for VR's I've got at least six here (2 brand new) and I've tried them all.

BTW The emblems got here. I'm polishing the car with my new DeWalt polisher. The new emblems will look good on a polished, glazed, carnuba-waxed Z!

[Alfadog]

I have the same problem with my 240K........ although it has a VERY old alternator.

I would also be intertested to know if anyone has any ideas.

[abas]

Victor

Use hands signals!!!!

Seriously though, could you test the indicator switch ( a good candidate for the problem) by bridging the wires either side of the indicators to see if the indicator circuit operates OK without the switch.

Andrew

[EScanlon]

Victor:

You state that the ammeter "goes crazy" as well as other items dimming, when you turn on the turn signals.

You don't state whether the increase in draw is when the light turn signal indicator is ON or OFF. Although to some it may sound frivolous it might be the indication you are looking to find.

Turn Signal Flashers work on a resistance inside. When you apply current to the flasher, it heats up a resistance wrapped around a contact. When that resistance gets hot enough, it causes the contact, which is made of heat sensitive metal, to "click" or pop to a different position, due to the heat. At that point it closes the contact for the turn signal elements and allows current to flow to the turn signal light bulbs, and they light up. When the metal on the contact cools down enough, it then contracts and returns to the original position, where the resistance is once again heated up.

If your ammeter is showing a strong draw when the flasher is in "heating up mode", then it's the flasher that is starting to go bad, as the resistance is starting to burn out. If on the other hand it's when the turn signal lights are on, then you have a problem in the wiring either TO or AWAY from the flasher. I would first check the turn signal switch as they are notorious for getting dirt and dust inside the switch unit.

HTH

Enrique

[Victor Laury]

Thanks Enrique!

I'll check this out when I get home (roadstering this week). I may buy a replacement flasher arbitrarly (just in case) on my way home. I've been through the wiring so much that I'm leaning toward the flasher.

[Zs-ondabrain]

when the old style flasher unit is used, you need to remember that unit shorts itself out in order to "flash" .

A couple fixes would be lower wattage bulbs,

A different style flasher unit or even an electronic flasher unit

If you ever change your bulbs to L.E.D.'s w/ the help of an electronic flasher, there will be little or no draw on the system.