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Valve seals job...


guy_geo

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Ok, another technical ?.

The Z I'm buying will need a job on the valve seals.

Is it long and expensive (in US$, I will make the conversion in CND$)!

The owner told me the car is not smoking when running, but the engine is burning some oil...

And, for the timing chain, is it recommended to change all the parts to do a clean job using that kit??

http://www.courtesyparts.com/S30-TBKIT.html

Anyone did that before?

Thanks for the inputs!

:cool:

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As far as the timing chain kit, yes, it is a bit expensive. But in the long run it is probably worth the extra money now to do everything right. As long as you are going to pull the front cover to do the timing chain and tensioner you may as well change the gears and the seals and gaskets to save you from having to do part of the job later. It is not a hard job, just a little time consuming. No sense working on something twice if you can do it all the first time, right?

As far as the valve seals are concerned, are you sure that is the problem? It could be just a set of rings that are starting to show their wear. If the valve seals are shot, it will smoke when you first start it up after it has sat for a while. I believe it is possible to change the seals with the head still on the car if the right spring compressor is used, I don't know for sure as everytime I have messed around with the valves the head has been off the car. You might want to run a compression check just to double check the ring condition and the valve seats, a leak down test should show what the problem since you will be pressurizing it with an air hose, if you hear air leaking into the intake it's the valves, if it leaks into the crankcase, you got ring problems.

Just a couple ideas before you get too involved.

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Ok, that,s sound good to me.

The car sat for 1 year without running. The previous onwer told me that the valve seals might have become dry???

Is he right, can it be possible?

But, yes, be assure that I will make a complete check-up on the car this srping before finalizing my deal!

Is 93 000 miles a lot on these engines?

I know form the 2nd owner that he car was used a couple of time for Solo and some lapping... Anything else particular I want to check before, like clutch, tranny, bearings?

merci!

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Yes, it's possible the valve seals have become hard and brittle, sitting for a long time like that. My one car sat for over 4 years without being started and is OK. They may have been going bad before he parked it.

Yes, definately check the clutch as they have a habit of rusting to the flywheel. You probably ought to check the brake master cylinder depending on what kind of fluid he was using. Most racing type fluids draw moisture and will ruin the seals in the master cylinder in no time. Also, you might want to take a good look at the wheel cylinders in the rear and the front calipers for leaks. While you are under there you probably should check out the u-joints, I have seen them freeze up if the car sat for a while.

By the way. Snow?? c'est la merde!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I looked up the timing chain kit in Motorsports old catalog, before you get one check to see what their price is now, the old catalog said 97.00 and change for the gears chain and tensioner with gaskets. Quite a bit less than Courtesy's price. Shop around a little, you may find a big difference in prices. :P

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2manyZ's gave you some good advice.

If you do find out it is the valve stem seals be sure to replace them with the newer type from Nissan. They are more of a poly than the original rubber type. They last longer and would not harden and crack apart like the originals. The newer type are brown in color and I am sure the folks at Nissan can help you get them. If not let me know I have the Nissan part number in my files.

Like 2manyZ's said, blue smoke at startup is likely to be valve stem seals. Smoke while driving is more likely to be warn rings or valves that are worn or out of adjustment. Oil consumption with no blue smoke usually means it is leaking on the floor! A compression test or leak down test would be best for determining the overall condition of the rings and valves.

Other things to check... the original diffs are pretty solid on Z cars and the original tranys are good on '72s and up. But things wear out in time. 93K miles is not a lot on a L6 motor. I would first check the body for signs of repair and for signs of rust on the frame rails, hatch deck, under battery, door sills and floor pan. Then a road test it to get a feel for the condition of the driveline and suspension. Next a compression test of the engine and a visual check of all the suspension components and bushings. If all meets your standards for the purchase price take it home check the tire pressures change the fluids, including carb oil, and enjoy.

Have fun!

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Ok Royce. I did saw the car before Chritsmas, it is parked inside a nice heated garage.

Car is flawlwess regarding the body, it was one of the best preserved Z from Ontario. It belonged to the president of the Z Club if Toronto.

No rust, and there is still the small rubber seal in the fuel filler hatch!

Interior is OK, a small crack in the top center of the dash.

Car has uretahne bushings all over, steering rack as well, larger sway bar, Tokico and Eibac, plus a performance 2,5" exhaust line.

Car was well maintained, and I can't wait anymore to hear the engine.

Like the guy told me, between each gear change, if you follow the car, there is a small amount of blue smoke that comes out....

But thanks all of you for the nice tips, it"s appreciated , espeacilly from a newbie Z:sleep:

Picture is available at this link:

http://www.npclub.com/bb/showthread.php?threadid=845

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