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Modification of option 1 boxes


Gee

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I have an option 1 box in my 240 which I am pretty sure has the Porsche type sychros in it. The synchros are stuffed and I have the option to replace with new Porsche synchros, or to butcher a 280 box (with the Warner synchros in it) to use parts from that to make a "better" box, i.e. with the option 1 ratios but with the better, Warner type synchros.

My questions are, will the option 1+280 box be better than the standard option 1 box?? Will that difference be significant? I want to modify my motor soon to produce a bit more power, so will the "frankenstein" box be stronger??? Apparently all the race guys use this " option 1 + 280 box" setup, is this right???

HELP!!!!

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Hi Gee,

I have two "Option" boxes ( one is an 'Option 1' direct top, and the other is the 'Rally' option direct top ).

What you have described seems to be quite popular now. The later Warner type synchros last much longer and are cheaper too. In some cases, the parts for the early Option boxes are no longer available.

A friend of mine has just rebuilt his 'Rally' Option box with the Warners, and he reports that it feels great. He was expecting that it might not be as good as the original Porsche type synchros ( he was expecting slower shifts ) but he says that it is just as good as it ever was.

I don't know about 'stronger' - but the Warner synchros should not have the teeth fall off them like the Porsche ones sometimes do. It will probably stand up better to punishment.

I've got this type of rebuild to look forward to ( not! ) in the near future on my Option 1 too.

Good luck!

Alan T.

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I was under the impression that all early 260 boxes were option 1 boxes here in Australia.. true??

Alan, I thought that the Warner synchros would actually make things faster? By the way, have you ever thought of making a list of Z books that people could collect? No doubt you have a large collection and the reference would be invaluable, especially if you were to comment on how good each book was... there might even be a few gaps people around the site could fill...

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Originally posted by Gee

I was under the impression that all early 260 boxes were option 1 boxes here in Australia.. true??

Er, I don't think so.

If they were I think Australia would be a happy hunting ground for people like myself...........:classic:

The "Option 1 Race Transmission" ( part no. 32010-N3220 ) was a Close-Ratio unit with a direct ( 1:1 ) fifth gear. Gear ratios were:

2.818 / 1.973 / 1.470 / 1.192 / 1.000 and they have a 'Dogleg' shift pattern ( 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th gears are arranged in the normal "H" pattern, with 1st gear on the 'Dogleg' sprung left and back ). This was useful for competition in that first gear would presumably be used only once, and then other gears could be used smoothly, quickly and safely with less chance of mis-shift and damage.

The Factory called these direct-top "Option 1 / Option 2 / Option 3 & Rally" transmissions the "F5C71-B" - not to be confused with the "FS5C71-B" & "FS5W71-B" overdrive boxes.

What might be confusing you is the fact that non-USA markets got the Close-Ratio Overdrive ( "CROD" 32010-N3130 ) and Wide-Ratio Overdrive ( "WROD" 32010-N3030 ) on standard cars before the USA did. Both these boxes were sold through Datsun Competition in the USA as 'Option' / Sports boxes when in fact they were standard equipment for other markets.

Some of the 4-cylinder models ( like the 180B SSS as Z Kid pointed out ) got a different transmission that also had a 'Dogleg' shift pattern, and these are often confused with the true "Option" boxes.

Complicated isn't it?:ermm: Maybe I'm not explaining it properly.

Alan T.

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I don't think it's complicated if I read you right.. basically 1st sits next to 3rd at the bottom of the pattern, so it goes..

2 4

_|_|

| | |

1 3 5

instead of..

1 3 5

|_|_|

| |

2 4

Bugger. That means mine is just a boring old 260 box then.

Still worth changing over to Warners?

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Hi Gee,

Yes - that's it.

Sorry to hear yours is not an Option 1 after all.

Warner synchros can't be bad as it seems to be a popular swap.

Having said that, one of the BEST boxes that I have ever experienced in an early Z was an FS5C71-A "straight stick" box that had recently been rebuilt with the original Porsche type synchros. It had been blueprinted and assembled by a specialist who had really taken his time over it. Lovely.

Alan T.

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Yes - they are changing hands for quite high prices these days. They never were what you might call 'cheap', but they cost more now than they ever did.

A full rebuild ( and I mean full, with all new synchros, bearings etc and proper blueprinting ) runs to a LOT of money.

Can I ask if you think that guy's description of his box as a genuine "ex-Works" Option 1 box is accurate? What I mean is, do you think it really came from one of Nissan's Factory-backed race programmes, or is it just a loose description of a genuine Sports Option item?

The reason I ask is that ( to people like me anyway ) there is a fairly big difference between ex-Team stuff and stuff that could be bought over the counter. Whenever I read or hear "ex-Works" I start getting excited and begin to think that if I follow the trail back I might find the holy grail of a genuine ex-Works car. Most of the time it proves not to be the case.:classic::cry:

Alan T.

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His advertisment was on www.ozdat.com :

Nissan Option 1 gearbox Reluctant sale of genuine ex-works Option 1 L-series gearbox with slip yoke (not flange). Has been sitting in car in garage for last 8 years. Contact Cam on 0427 577 702

Price: POA Location: Melbourne

Contact: Cam Jay Phone: 0427 577 702 (hours: All reasonable hours)

Like I said this ad was a while ago so the box is now sold. The prefix for Melbourne from the UK is +613 & if you want me to go and look at anything, myself or someone here should be able to help as I am in the North of Victoria, whereas Gav is further South.

Can you tell the technically inept (i.e me) what a slip yoke is as opposed to a flange??

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I think when he refers to slip yoke/flange he is referring to how the driveshaft attaches to the back of the gearbox. If it was a flange system, it would be bolted there with four bolts, similar to how your driveshaft attaches at the diff end, and I think the driveshaft would have to be a two piece affair to allow for a little bit of slip (ie have a splined joint to allow for movement in the centre) the slip yoke is what I think most standard Z's (with the exception of the early early models) have where by the driveshaft is splined and simply pushes into the back of the gearbox, and the movement in and out is permitted by this system, meaning the driveshaft can be one piece.

Cheers Chris

(Of course I may be wrong, I often am)

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