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Access to clock


BillD

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I have removed many clocks from 240 to 280 Zs at wrecking yards this is what I do.

1. Get a short cross point screw driver. ( 2.5 - 3")

2. Remove the glove box (sorry but all of the cars I have worked on the box was trashed so I just pushed / broke it out of the way.

3. Get the short screw driver and hope the screw will come loose.

If it does not come loose I do the following

1. Remove heater / ac control panel, (there are 2 screws hidden up under the top edge) I am not sure what it stopping yours from coming loose.

2. If it has AC, loosen screws holding vent in place and in your case gently push it back out of the way.

You should now have access to the screw with a longer screw driver or needle nose vice grips and should be able to break the screw loose.

Once the screw is loose the bracket will move back by hinging on a point at the top and allowing the clock to move back and down.

Note on 240s and 260s the access is uncluttered from the front but the 280s have more wires, lines and ducts. So sometimes I can get on the screw with the vice grips without removing anything else. On some I have to loosen the part that has all the controls for heat/AC/defrost.

Note2: since you have a 240 your duct vents are old and will break when pushed on slightly so be ready to be upset with yourself.

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I'm thinking that if you cut the dash liner on the clock side on three sides between the angles.That would create a flap to access the clock.When finished use some black duct tape to seal the flap or use silicone.A piece of black cardboard could easily be cut to fit between the angles and that would allow future access for bad bulbs and such.Be creative.

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I'm thinking that if you cut the dash liner on the clock side on three sides between the angles.

Whoa! That's a bit extreem. I mean, cut away...It's your dash! You know, IT'S NOT THAT TOO DAM HARD TO PULL THE FRIGGEN HEATER PANEL! (yes I'm yelling). And as a side benfit, it gets easier every time you do it.

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I meant the CARDBOARD liner Victor.You know I would never cut a dash!!!We know removing it will destroy it.If it works great,if not than the first step in the trashing process has begun.Victor ,You should know my style better than that by now.:classic: Myself I use the clock as a time to change the oil.If the odo reads say 3000 Iset the clock to 6:00.When the numbers match,it time also no battery drain as my car spends most of the time under its cover.

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I was able to pull the heater panel out enough to get my hand inside. The original hesitance to move was caused by an aftermarket CD player. With the player removed, the next level of resistance was from the heater cables. The "Hot-Cold" cable was the tightest so I tried to free it from the heater box control. The cable itself was pretty easy, but the sheath attachment was amazingly tight. Still, I could now stick my hand in and feel the clock from the opening left by the partially removed panel.

I examined the glove box to see if entry from that route was viable and immediately broke off a small piece from the top when I pushed to check points of attachment. Seeing that the support was from the sides and bottom, I "nibbled" away at the cardboard and made an opening in the top that allowed me access to the clock (and other gauges). Not much room but it didn't show at all and did give me bassic access. I was able to awkwardly get a short phillips screwdriver to the screw but it wouldn't budge. Having secondary access through the heater panel helped with applying pressure, but I still wasn't able to free the clock. I put some liquid wrench on the screw and decided to use my "accurate two times a day" clock as is for a while. Access through the top of the glove box will now make it relatively easy to try again.

Thanks for all of the advice.

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