Leaking SU carbs

[seerex]

I checked the floats and its ok , but i took out a spark plug and held it the firewall and turned over the motor and didn't get any spark , just put plugs cables cap rotor and points in , could a condesor stop it from running?

[Chino 240Z]

- or a bad coil, do you have 12V at the coil with the ign. key on? Double check your fuse panel too. Make sure you are grounding the spark plug on some unpainted metal, I prefer using a corner of the eng. block or somewhere you know it has a good ground to the batt. ground. Bad or weak batt. with dirty terminals and a poor ground at the spark plug may give you a false spark check too. Also if you pulled any wiring off from the items you were working on you might double check they are tight & back to original terminal. I once mixed up one wire from the pos. term. of the coil to the neg. term. and chased the mistake all night untill I convinced myself to double check what I had just finished hooking up!

:stupid:

Keep Looking.

[seerex]

well i am still leaking , put in a new condensor and cleaned the terminals on all that i could find and the clips , Chino on your car you have both overflow hoses from the carbs joined together and from where do they go? I am gonna have a friend of my dads who is an electrical engineer come over and check out my stuff before i spend more , he fixed my bro 260 in like 2 minutes , when you know what you are doing you sure look good

[Chino 240Z]

I know what you mean, sometimes you stand to close to the forest to see the trees, or something like that! Well consider the things you have already paid for a needed tune-up and once you have it running it will be even sweeter. Hang in there not only are you trying to fix a car but you are also teaching and learning as you go and that is worth the effort. Last week at the track I wasn't happy with the results of the $1000 I poured in the carbs, ram tubes, filters, gas, travel, time and was about to put the old stuff back on but decided to stick it out and keep trying things. I didn't get to where I wanted but came home knowing alot more and alot closer to my goal. I'll get it yet and hope to pass this stuff on to others as they have to me.

The 2 fuel bowl vent lines just go to a plastic fumes box that is stuffed under the fender. I don't have a stock filter where they would normally take the fumes to be recycled. There is a thread somewhere around here talking about this recently. Anyways heres a picture of the box.

Also you may need to lower the gas level just a little bit more with the floats, and start with about 2 turns open (or down) with the nozzel jets under the carbs, and just crack open the butterflys with their screws (just so the screw starts to move them) to get it to idle when it does fire. You still have a fuel level on the high side (I think) that's why fuel is being drawn out of the nozzles in the bottom of the carbs so easily. Go to ZTherapy.com and look around they have some pics that may help identify some things.

Gambate Kudasai! Hang it there!

Craig :ninja:

[Victor Laury]

Hang in there not only are you trying to fix a car but you are also teaching and learning as you go and that is worth the effort.

Absolutley! Good advice from Craig!

[seerex]

Ok I have good news finally, me and my bro got the linkage free they return completely without assitance , and we got the car to fire with the choke on DUH , I know no need to say it , but it was still pouring gas out like Zoolander gas station sceen so we stopped til we fix the leaking prob or get a overflow tank, the front carb float level was like 1/4 to 1/3 full of gas where the one that is leaking is almost completele full when we took the covers off again , when you squeeze the line going from the bottom on the float tank the gas goes up and down so at that point it isn't clogged , by the way put a coil in as well , not sure if it was the prob but my bro had a spare , any thoughts?

[Chino 240Z]

Hmmm, sounds like the front one is working right but the rear bowl is overfilling because your gross fuel jet or valve won't shut the gas off when the float comes up to level. Are you sure the float is not leaking. There may be a piece of debris in the valve which means you'll have to carefully remove the float by sliding its pin out, then with a open-end wrench remove the brass valve, you can remove it with fingers once you get it loose. Careful not to slip with the wrench and break off one of the tabs that hold the float. You can disassemble the valve by carefully removing the retaining clip and pull the needle and spring out of it for inspection. Some valves are like a roller ball, some have a brass tip and some have a rubber point tip. They do wear our and need to be replaced, call ZTherapy, Victoria British, MSA ... about 23 to 30 dollars? Sometimes the dirt falls out while you are taking it apart and you'll never see it.

I was talking to Steve @ ZTherapy tonight and he reminded me that the floats are easily swamped or flooded by to much fuel pressure, even if you have them set at the right 9/16" level, which is my problem to high of pressure from elect. pump & fuel reg. set to high.

Ultimately you will try to match the front bowl level and rear bowl level when they are both working properly.

Well looks like you made ground, but that rear bowl filling to high is the shut off valve or float not pushing the shut off valve straight or properly, or to high pressure, or float is not swinging freely and is sticking, or has a hole in it. Keep looking.

Craig

[seerex]

ok just got back from the keys should have been working on the z but you gotta do what you gotta do , i took off the retaining pin from the float valve , the valve was stuck i got it instuck and the top portion little nipple looking thing with the spring came out , cleaned it up and reassembled , not leaking fuel from the line anymore , a bit now from the gasket that i have destroyed , any feedback on the rebuild kits from BV , I have heard little about them , but all has been positive, didn't know it the Ztherapy was wortht the 125 more , car still turns like it wants to start but fuel starved, gonna it hit tomarrow with a few more edumacated people , got fire so I assume its carbs and from the condition of the valve which i assume closes when the float raises it might all be needed attention before it will fire or run . love to hear more input especially with the rebuild kits

[Chino 240Z]

I was hoping to read you were laying rubber and had it running! Well, next time. I don't know about the rebuild kits. I agree about the 125, compared to 18 to 30 frog skins. I guess the more affordable ones work or else they wouldn't sell them. The ZT kits come with 2 hour SU video tapes and maybe a little better product too. I would still scratch up to cash for the tapes even if you buy different kits. I had just ordered a hand full of float bowl gaskets and intake gaskets for the tool box. You're not the only one trying to get the fuel level right. I've wrinkled the gaskets enough and now they need replacing. Tomarrow I think we're going to put on the exhaust silencer, run the car around the block a few times and see if the float levels and fuel pressure setting changes are better?

Well here's to ya, Cheers!

Craig:pirate:

[seerex]

ITS ALIVE ITS ALIVE!!!

[seerex]

yeapper got it to run , wouldn't say laying down rubber but its very positive , i took out both the front and rear floats and released the valve in there that was stuck but then it stuck again as it was running and had a flood of gas again , I have a exhaust leak from the smog crap it rusted a hole in the pipes that come up from the manifold , any thoughts , msa their header or the monza from bv , both very close in price I was considering the 3 to 2 to one from msa anyone has good or bad on them and the exhuast the monza as opposed to the targa?

[Chino 240Z]

Right on Seerex! Sometimes you can only use a used part for so long and then ya have to go new! I milk my parts till they are dead. I get mad at myself sometimes when I knew I should have gone new and saved time. So some rebuild kits or gas valve jets are on the list huh. I haven't seen the Monza exhaust, but the MSA one seems like the one I would look into. 3 to 2 then out the back with a nice straight high flow muffer would do the trick. Expect some noise from it all, I mean a good noise if you like to be heard, I know I do! I don't know if any of the headers are ceramic coated but if you can swing it I would do it. I have a 93 Firebird with coated Hookers under the cramped hood and it drops the heat dramatically under the hood. The coating will also save them from rotting out too. There are several companys that offer it, but you mainly want it inside and out.

Well, sounds like you getting all together!

Good Luck Craig