Rear transverse link (A-arm) and snowflake wheel/tire

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by KEINsm

! ! !

4 1/2 hours to separate from the strut!? I know you're exaggerating, but what is the problem with doing that?

I found the name (or the lack thereof) of the part that broke in half. It was actually a nameless part connected to the bottom of the strut. This part is connected by the spindle pin to the control arm.

He's not exagerating. I spent two days trying to get a spindle pin out. Finally I gave up and took it all to a machine shop with a 30 ton press, and a torch. $40 later it was separated. Not all of them will take that long, but it is one of, if not the most difficult jobs to do on an early Z car. Be forewarned!

And from your most recent description, you need the strut housing assembly which includes the stub axle and wheel/axle bearings.

[mwz]

Unfortunately, Steve is not exaggerating on the time frame required. The problem is the wedge bolt that goes through the spindle pin makes the pin "swell" in the center and driving the pin out is no easy task, 98% of the time. If time is a big issue, you would be better off trying to find a used strut housing with the control arm still attached. Unless my memory is off, the part that is broken is part of the strut housing. It's all one piece.

Chloe

[Zvoiture]

That 'nameless part' is the cast bearing race housing which the strut tube is pressed into. Permanently. To the best of my knowledge, they are unseperatable (I just made that word up). It is all: Strut Housing. You also can not take the stub axles out without a 15lb slide hammer. Everything in that whole shebang is put together with pretty close tolerances. Your best bet is to just go get an entire strut assembly with conrtol arm attached and bolt it into your car. It is super simple. 13 bolts and a brake line. You need a 14mm on a breaker bar, a 12mm open end wrench and a set of visegrips for the brake line. There are dozens of junkyards in Riverside with these assy's still attached to the car.

Don't forget the jack and the WD-40.

steve77

[Zvoiture]

One more thing....since MOST if not all of the rusting Z's down at Ecology are going to be 75-78 280's, you will probably want to take both sides. It will fit, no problem, but the springs and isolators are different and if you only take one side, you might get a little 'unlevel' problem. This will also complicate things a bit the next time you buy strut cartridges, but that's another story.

steve77

[KEINsm]

That part is permanently attached!?

What do you guys do when you upgrade to aftermarket struts?

I took the advice to look for a complete strut assembly w/ control arm attached.

It took me 10 minutes to find one in San Bernardino. Hopefully, this one is from a '70-74 early model.

Does $100 sound like a good price? (it sure does to me)

I am planning on waking up my roommate early tomorrow morning and go pick it up.

Now the biggest problem I have is removing my Tokico spring and putting it on the new strut. I am assuming that this will be a pretty straightforward (but tedious) job if I rent out a spring compressor.

Now I need a new wheel/tire replacement.

Thanks everybody ! !

I owe each one of you big!

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by KEINsm

That part is permanently attached!?

What do you guys do when you upgrade to aftermarket struts?

We unscrew the Gland Nut on top of the strut tube and pull the old strut cartridge out and put the upgrade cartridge unit in. Then replace the gland nut. Put the spring back on the suspension and re-install the whole thing

Originally posted by KEINsm

Now the biggest problem I have is removing my Tokico spring and putting it on the new strut. I am assuming that this will be a pretty straightforward (but tedious) job if I rent out a spring compressor.

You are going to want to take your strut cartridge out of the damaged strut tube and put it into the one you are going to install on your car. Otherwise you will have what ever crap strut cartridge is in the part you buy from the JY.

[Zvoiture]

If the Tokico springs are lowered, you won't need a spring compressor to get it off. The perches should just about be at 'zero' with the weight off it. You will need one to get the stock spring off the new unit though. If the donor car is sitting on its suspenion, you can wrap the spring with NUMEROUS wraps of baling wire WHILE THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR IS ON IT, tie it very tight, jack up the car, remove the unit, undo the top nut on the isolator and very carefully remove the wrapped unit. Then lay it down in your driveway away from EVERYTHING and cut the wires with some dykes. I wouldn't try this unless you have some experience with suspension. You just have to make sure the spring is 'loose' before taking the top nut off. If you kill yourself or your dog or your ex-best friend, don't come crying to me. Rent a spring compressor from Kragen. They cost $5 a day, but the deposit is like, $150.

Not to complicate things, but if the early donor car is not available, and you have to get the susp. off a 280, the existing strut will not fit.

steve77

[zcarmann]

Might have a Complete Left side rear set up, will have to check my parts supply, have a 1/2 ton of 240 Z parts to sell off