240z- Ignition Problem

[projecteye]

when I turn the ignition key from OFF to Lock the car basically starts back up. It's like it just doesn't ever turn off....

what could be causing this?

[JEFF]

Take the steering column cover off after disconecting the battery.

Look at all of the wire connections..... Look at the wires between the connections for melt down/melt together. Check the fasener that holds the ignition switch to the column,besure it is tight. With the battery still disconected.... turn the key on and off a few times to watch what (if anything) is moving around. If nothing is moving around,reconect the battery and try the key again--- watch for sparks anywhere. If these things do not turn up anything..... take the switch in and have it tested or replaced.

Please let the rest of us know what you find and or solve.

- Jeff

[projecteye]

see photos there is a blue wire that comes out of a quick disconnect and goes no where do you know what this is for? can this be my problem?

[projecteye]

see photos

[projecteye]

see photo

[JEFF]

projecteye

That is not a factory conector so I do not know what it is for.

Is it a 12v power wire? Ignition on or off? check it to ground for continuity. Follow the wire to the other end and let me know where it goes.

- Jeff

[JEFF]

Oh .. by the way.. that connector is not a Quick disconect. That type is ment to be a perminent splice/tap in.

- Jeff

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by projecteye

see photos there is a blue wire that comes out of a quick disconnect and goes no where do you know what this is for? can this be my problem?

I would say that this blue wire cannot be the cause of the problem on your car unless there is another loose wire somewhere nearby that is not shown in your picture. It "could" have been a "repair" to route power around a damaged section of the OEM (stock) wiring loom, but if so, you should be able to see another "loose wire" within the reach of that wire. Lay on your back in the footwell and look up in there with a flashlight and see if there is another wire hanging loose. If there is, it "should" be fairly obvious, since whoever installed this one didn't bother to try to hide it.

That blue wire is NOT part of the "stock" wiring that came in the car as manufactured by Nissan. Someone (previous owner?) spliced it in for "some" reason.

Is there 12v at that wire under any circumstances? Ignition switch in "OFF", or "ACC" or "ON"? It "could" have been used to bring to bring power to some "added-on" device like a CB radio, or aftermarket fog or driving lights, or something else that has since been removed. That would be my guess.

In any event, I would either remove it or cover that "bare wire" end of that blue wire to insulate it so there is no possibility of it shorting out and causing more problems for you. It's not doing anything any good just hanging there.

I would expect that your car's problem lies in some device (component) in the ignition system. The switch on the back of the ignition lock, the ballast resistor, or wiring to the alternator would be places that I'd be looking at for possible cause of the problem that your car is exhibiting.

1. Use an Ohm meter to check for continuity from one end of the ballast resistor to the other end.

2. Carefully examine the wiring and connectors at the back of the alternator and at the voltage regulator to see if it looks like someone as been altering the "stock" wiring. If you cannot tell on your own, post more pictures of those areas and folks here who know what it should look like can tell you. It is possible that someone modified the car to use a later style alternator and did not do so properly. (left out a necessary diode)

3. Borrow an "ignition switch" (on back of the Ignition lock assy) if you can, or bite the bullet and buy one and swap it in. Last time I checked they weren't too expensive ($20 or so)

Check it out and get back to us.

[projecteye]

ok - I took the ign. switch off the back of the ignition housing. no signs of burns or melt marks, however, I stuck a screwdriver in the slot to check the action and when you go from LOCK to OFF it has a nice click similarly when you go from OFF to ACC it clicks nicely all the way through START but when you come back around counterclockwise (to shut the car down) it does not click at all from OFF to LOCK in fact it goes past where the arrows line up too far and never clicks into position.

see photo attached . I think the switch mechanics are shot.I don't think you can open it up either.. this most likely explains why it is not shutting off and continues to drain the battery.

guess I will order a new one.

man what a pain in the arse it is unscrewing that part.

can't wait to put in the new one. I need to buy a mining hat and a couple of extra prosthetic arms with bionic fingers.

I hope I am right this time I just want to take her out on a nice fall cruise...

anyone ever run into this before?

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by projecteye

man what a pain in the arse it is unscrewing that part.

can't wait to put in the new one. I need to buy a mining hat and a couple of extra prosthetic arms with bionic fingers.

I hope I am right this time I just want to take her out on a nice fall cruise...

anyone ever run into this before?

Hi:

Sounds like the Switch could be shot. Might want to also check the continuity from end to end of the ballast resistor before you go ordering parts (it's in the engine bay, below the coil), as it can cause this too. Easy to check with an ohm-meter.

The Ign. switch can be attacked easier if you remove the whole Ignition Lock/Switch assembly from the car. I drilled small holes in the heads of the funky screws that hold it in. (they don't have a slot or phillips cross) Used an EZ Out to remove them, then I used different "normal" screws to re-install. This doesn't save any time the first time you do it, but at least you're working upright and not upside down. Next time you need to remove the assembly, it's a breeze to pull. Just a thought

Good Luck