Painting a Stripe

[Zlishous]

Anyone out there have any expierence painting a stripe down the middle of a Z car? I have a good paint job now but would like to have a stripe down the center. First what to strip with (sandpaper? strippers?) Do I really need to take the paint off? Or is there a good paint that will adhere with little prep work over the existing paint? I plan on doing this myself (i am brave) mainly because of cost, all the quotes I have received have been at least 500.00 bucks. Thanks,

Zlishall

[Kvamen]

Many variables to deal with. I presume that your paint job is not new and thus cured.

In order for the new paint to bond you must have a clean surface. Best to clean the surface with polishing or rubbing compound. This will take off the wax. Wet sand the surface with 400 grit. Mask before sanding so you don't scratch what won't be painted. Even if you do, scratches can be worked out with 1000 to 1600 grit wet sanding and polishing compound.

When the stripe area is clean and satiny, wash it all down with detergent. Now re-apply your stripe masking. Use the good masking tape from your local paint store. It costs a little more but it's well worth it. Consult with your paint store. They can keep you straight on compatibility issues (laquer, urethane, acrylic enamel, whatever). You may not even need a primer if your base paint isn't rubbed through, presuming your stripe is dark over a lighter paint. If you use a primer, use a color similar to your stripe.

A good compressor and hvlp gun are nice to have but if you don't, and you don't forsee the need for one in the future, you can do a very decent job with spray cans of good quality automotive paint. Again, consult your local automotive paint store. They've seen it all and are usually quite helpful.

After your paint is applied and safely set up, unmask the stripe and have a good grin. I find that the hardest part of a paint jop is waiting for the paint to be dry enough to remove the masking. It's like Christmas and I'm seven again.

The final cleanup is the edges of the stripe. You may have a raised, sharp edge where the paint abutted the masking tape. You can shave this edge, carefully of course, with a sharp knife or use the super-fine sandpaper and polish it out with rubbing and polishing compound. One problem using primer is that you may have a fine primer line showing between the stripe and body paint. Do not despair. The cure makes an even classier stripe.

While you were in the paint shop, snooping around, you probably noticed packages of striping tape of different colors, widths and multiple stripe tapes. You can match your stripe or contrast/compliment your color scheme. Consider a double stripe. It will give you body/tape/stripe/tape/stripe combination to really sharpen the impact of your work.

Probably the trickiest part of any of this is making a straight line with tape. Start with reference marks (light pencil, don't engrave the surface). anchor the tape firmly at your starting point. Then roll off enough for all of this panel. Sighting down the tape, pull it firmly but don't stretch it. As you lower the tape to the surface, it will make contact and barely stick. If it's not quite where you want it, lift it up and try again. This way you can ease into body contours and put the line where you want it. When you have it where you want it, press the tape down and especially at the paint edge, rub it down with a cloth. You can now mask the rest of the body ( I use newspaper ), taping it to your stripe edge.

One other note on striping tape. After you've got your tape in place. rub it in thoroughly with a cloth so that the adhesive bonds to your paint. When cured, it is bonded like paint.

For the multiple stripe tape, it has a clear mylar tape on the top side which holds the stripes in correct relative position. Peel off the paper that protects the adhesive at the bottom of the tape. Apply the tape. Rub it in good. Now peel off the mylar top tape. Rub in the stripes thoroughly.

Most important of all, have fun with it.

[Zlishous]

Now that's what I call a reply! Thank you soo much! If any one has anything to add (likethere is anything) feel free. otherwise it's off to the paint store. When I am all done I will post the finished product!

Thanks again for the help!

Zlish

[PetesPonies]

well let me try- first wash the car with detergent soap. Then wipe done the stripe area with wax and grease remover. Do not polish the wax into the paint. Follow the directions on the wax and grease remover. Measure your stripe out and use a felt marker to make marks. Buy some 3m fineline tape. This is what you want to use to edge your stripe. Now, it would help to know what paint is on your car, There are paints out there that will not react well with your existing paint. If you have a BC/CC paint, that would be best. If you want your strip to not have a hard edge, you will need to cover in CC. Lay out the stripe with the fineline, then widen it with a layer of 3/4 automotive masking tape. Then cover the rest with papet etc. This fineline tape will provide a leakproof edge, also you will remove it right after spraying. This will soften the edge. Overlap the masking tape slightly so the fineline can be removed. There is not enough space ot rime to explain painting procedures. If you are not experienced, you should practice first. A stripe is a small area, so it will be a lot easier. If you plan to CV the entire area, then it will all have to be sanded with 600 prior to taping. If you do not plan on doing that, then at least use a gray scuff pad to the taped off area to be striped. Wipe down again with wax/ degreaser and tack rag it. Then stray. Pull off the fineline when done spraying. If using BC/CC remove the paper etc and wash down with water and soap. Dry it well and then CC the entire area. Understand that all automotive paints with hardeners ( and you should not be using one without it ) have isoscynates. These are extremely posionous and must be sprayed with a fresh air system. A charcoal mask IS NOT good enough. You may want to do all the prep and have someone else with the proper equipment and experience spray the stripe. If you lived near me ( Maryland ) I would do it for less than $500. Good luck. You may want to visit www.Autobodystore.com. They have a BBS that is very popular, Ipost there a lot as well as other very knowledgable professionals. You will get a feeling for what is involved in painting. There is a lot to know and the equipemnt and paint is very expensive.

[EScanlon]

I worked in a body shop about 20 years ago, so some of the procedures I will tell you are before we got some of the newer HVLP guns, the isocyanate paints and the requirements for full body breathers.

BEFORE YOU START. Get an idea of what you want to do as far as a stripe. If your car is relatively clean, play with a roll of masking tape so you get the feel for the tape and also so you can decide if you like the "look" of something. Once you're sure of what you want, either take a picture or take note of key points, where it sits with relation to the bump on the hood, the wipers, etc. then remove the tape.

Now you're ready to begin:

First, wash the car thoroughly with a good strong car detergent and LOTS AND LOTS of water. This is to make sure that all foreign debris is removed and rinsed off. Ideally it will also wash away any dust that may be trapped in between body panels weatherstripping etc.

Next get a can of Wax and Grease remover and using two rags, both of which are clean and soft, moisten one. Then using the wet one with your left hand and the dry one with your right, use the Karate Kid's Wax On Wax Off technique. Wipe the area with your left, then move over and while you are wiping a new area with your left hand, wipe the previous area with your right. Go over the whole car at least twice, and when the rags start looking dirty change them both. Don't use up all the W&G cause you'll need it again.

At this point the car should be free of prior waxes, greases and finger oils.

Lay out your stripe / pattern you will be painting. This is to lay out the tape AS IF it were the paint. This is to provide you with a line to mask TO. Once you are satisfied with the tape you've layed out to be the outermost edge of the painted area, then you are ready to mask off the car.

At this point you are INVERTING what you want to paint. That is, you mask UP TO where the paint will start. So, very carefully, using 3/4" masking tape or 1/2" lay down the masking tape on the OUTSIDE of the paint area, butting the tape right up to the edge of the previous tape. Make sure you rub the tape down to form a tight seal. Do this for the whole stripe. If you want at this time you can remove the tape inside the paint area. You should now be able to see what part of the car you will be painting.

Now, using a wider tape, like 2" lay a second layer on top of the first tape. Lay the edge of this second layer as close as you can to the inside (paint side) edge of the previous tape. Do this from front to back. Once done, lay a third layer right on top of the first. (I'm not just showing you how to waste tape, there's a reason behind this madness.)

At this point, you should have a 1/2" or 3/4" edge of tape that's been covered with two layers of 2" tape.

Get a Maroon or Green Scotch Brite Scuff Pad from the paint store. Then using this as you would sand paper, scuff the SHINE off of the paint in the area to be painted. Don't do this in circles, use long strokes and make sure your pattern is smooth and even. If your prior paint is somewhat "orange-peeled", then start with the maroon and follow it up with the green or gray. Work right up to the edge of the masking tape, taking care not to peel back the tape, but get right up to the edge. That's why you put two extra layers of tape down, so they absorb the scratches from the paint you don't want scratched.

Once you've scuffed off ALL of the area to be painted, with a damp rag, wipe off as much of the dust as you can. Let it dry, and do it again. Now, very carefully remove any portion of the masking tape that has been scuffed / damaged. If the edge has been disturbed, replace that section of tape.

Now, mask off the vehicle. This means put a layer or two of painters paper or at least a double layer of newspaper (be careful of the grip holes on the edges of the newspaper, they WILL allow paint through) all the way from front to back covering EVERYTHING you don't want painted.

Now using the wax and grease remover, once again, wax on / wax off. You need to get rid of your own finger grease.

Final item, get a tack rag (this is a rag with sticky stuff on it) and very LIGHTLY wipe down the area to be painted AND the paper mask. This is to make sure there are no dust bunnies or hair hanging around hoping to be immortalized in your paint.

Now paint your stripe. I trust you understood everyone's points above as far as paint compatibility. You shouldn't need to primer since in order to cut through the paint, the primer all the way to metal would have taken some serious elbow grease.

Once you're finished with your last coat of paint, wait about 15 to 30 minutes. Test the paint on the masking paper. You want it to be tacky sticky but definitely NOT wet. If you can see that the paint surface "rebounds" a little bit from your light touch, that's perfect! You should be able to feel a skin. Once it's at this point, begin to unmask the edge of the stripe.

Now this is critical. Peel off the last layer of masking tape, the one that is actually protecting good paint from the edge of the painted area. Now bending the tape back at an angle to the paint line, such that the tape is actually bent back over itself and AWAY from the paint, slowly but steadily remove the tape. Maintain a steady pull and remove all of the edging. Do NOT rush, but move quickly. You should be seeing a nice crisp line, with no pulled paint strings. If you do see "strings" of paint, it's still too early or you put a really thick coat of paint.

By removing the tape in this manner, with the paint skinned over, but still somewhat pliable, the raised edge normally associated with a tape edge will be minimized or nearly eliminated.

Once the tape is all removed, WALK AWAY. In my years of painting since then (I do it as a hobby now) in my experience it's that "Can I check if it's dry?" touch that leaves more marks than anything else. Come back at least a couple hours later. At this time, go ahead and carefully remove the last of the mask.

Hope this helps you or whomever else may read this.

[Daniel]

I was once told that when you paint a stripe down your car you better want it forever.The stripe etches the metal of the car over time.At a later date even if you take it down to the metal,prime and repaint it.In a short time you will see the edge of where the stripe was.As I say thats what I was told.Fact?Fiction? Have fun!! Daniel

[EScanlon]

The only time I ran into an "etch" in the metal, was on a Firebird, that had been neglected in the sun for months. The decal on the hood had protected the paint and primer beneath it, such that when we used stripper, you could still see where the decal was.

Can't seem to recall the same with a painted stripe.