Hey everyone. I am having big problems with my 1980 280ZX and i cant figure out whats wrong. See, what happens is when I am going down the road I lose all power when I push on the gas, and my car jerks and the tack drops. Then the tack comes back up and i get my power back, and it does it over and over untill it dies. It does not matter what gear it is in and it does not matter how fast im going. But if i am in nutrual i can gas it all the way up to 3000rpm and then it gets foggy. Can you help me?

thanks

steve

:stupid:

Sounds very much like fuel supply. Change your fuel filter and write back the results.

Hey, changed my fuel filter last week. Anything else it might be??

My first idea would be the ignition module or something in the ignition itself. Could be a fuel problem (or electircal)in the AFM or fuel pump itself as well....

This is a list of all the things i have changed and tested.

1)Spark plugs and wires

2)Distributer cap and roter

3)Airflow meter

4)Coil

5)I checked the timing, was off but fixed it.

6)New fuel filter

7)New fuel pump about 3 years ago and have kept nothing but prem. in it.

any more ideas??

Couple other ideas...

Ignition module?

Junk in gas tank sucking up and blocking the fuel pickup

Water or air temp sensors? Leaning out or enrichening the mixture.

Fuel pump relay?

Does the car make any unusual noises or smoking when it acts up? That might lead us in a different direction depending on the answer.

ok, a few questions..

The ignition module, what exactly is that and what does it do?? Would i have that on an fuel injected? Next, you mentioned junck being in the gas tank, wouldent it do the same thing when it is idaling too. See it only does it when its in a gear or gets above 3500rpms. My next question is there a way to test the air temp or water sensor?? I put a new fuel pump relay on and it is good. Now about smoking and makeing funny noises. It does not smoke, but it does make sounds when it acts up. It sounds like it is being chocked.

thanks

steve

get back with me.

The gas tank junk would get sucked up into the pickup more when you are at speed when the engine is drawing a larger amount of fuel than when at idle.

The ZX distirbutors use a module on the outside of the distributor instead of the internal pickup like the 280Z's did. Your's should be a 12-80 which is the better one of them all. Without it, no ignition. With a failing one, the symptoms you describe, pretty mcuh fit the bill. Be glad you don't have the internal ones like some of the other cars such as the 200SX I had, it was 200 dollars to replace at dealers cost and about the size of a large cigarette lighter.

Look at this page, about half way down for a little explanation.

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

There's a way to test all the sensors, but without a Factory Service Manual, I can't give you the specs or the resistence values you should have. You can also test the sensors at the ECU if you have a service manual to tell you which lugs on the ECU to check. The best thing you could do is find a Factory Service Manual and look in the troubleshooting section. With the EFI and electronic ignition, there are too many things for me to remember all of them.

ok thanks alot. it looks like i have alot of homework to do. I'll get back with you.

steve

your throtlle position switch(TPS) might be sticking inside, you put your foot on the gas which opens the butterfly but if the TPS is sticking it wont tell the computer that the engine is now off idle and your mixture will lean right out resulting in a big hesitation until you air flow meter compensates and your mixtures return to normal.

just a thought.

Hey,

Dose anyone know how to do a check on the ignition moduel on an 1980 Datsun 280Zx.

Thanks

Steve

smusicmans , this is a shot in the dark , but I am running the same ignition in my 240. I recently had a stumbling that I thought was fuel problem and couldent figure it out . To make a long story short it turned out to be the braker plate and a damaged stator. There inside the dist, the braker plate is the flat disk that is connected to the vacume advance diafram. It has little ball bearings 6 total the allow this two disk unit to revolve , and they are held in place with plastic keepers. Mine failed and one of the balls came loose and when that happened the plates came together allowing the other two inplace to also be free to fly around and the stator was chipped, it is the thing that has the 6 things standing up when you look down inside the dist, Any way take a good look inside and see if you can see any loose little balls or parts of the magnet. Good luck , hope this is of some help. by the way if you need parts midwestZ is a good sorce and a sponcer as well. :classic: