Light turn signal switch

[Disposition]

Well I screwed up.:stupid:

My headlight switch usually takes 3 tries to turn on and my right blinker wont stay up through a turn. So I orderd a combination headlight turn signal switch from Ebay which was advertised to be compatible with my "72.

Last night I was all excited to put it in only to discover the wiring harness wasn't compatible.

I have contacted the seller who's name will remane private unless he decides to be difficult.

I don't really want to cut the wires on my car.

So my question is this; is there a specific part # to look for out there, so I can be sure that I am getting the right one next time.

Also, how can I determine what year this new one is from in case I have to resell it?

I don't want to screw someone else.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Disposition

So my question is this; is there a specific part # to look for out there, so I can be sure that I am getting the right one next time.

Also, how can I determine what year this new one is from in case I have to resell it?

I don't want to screw someone else.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

The Headlight Switch is a completely separate part from the Turn Signal Switch. The eBay guy may have sold them together, but they have different Nissan Part Numbers

1. Are the wiring harnesses to BOTH switches incompatible with your vehicles wiring? If not, which one is NOT compatible?
   
2. What is the Mfg. Date of your car? Found on the Data Tag in the Driverside Door Jam.
   [/list=1]

[Disposition]

They are two seperate units, but neither side will connect up.

:sleepy:

My Z is a '72. I 'm at work and its at home in the garage so I can't check (due to a unrelated issue) but if I rememer right the tag inside the door said 10/71

I have been thinking of getting the microfishe CD. Thought I would ask first. Lot's of experienced folks around here.

Thanks, D

[2ManyZs]

What you need to do is find out exactly when your's was built and get the correct switch. There are a lot of small differences in the dash wiring harness that make it nearly impossible to swap between the years. Up to 71 will have one type of connector, 72's will have another and the 73's are not the same as any of the years.....all depends on the production date as some were changed mid-year.

Not only the headlight switch but also the turn signal and there are probably a few others as well.

If you can't find one, MidwestZ should have them, or MSA can probably get the correct one for your particular year of car. I also know that Andy Russell z@datsundude.com has them for a decent price too....

Don't hack up the harness if at all possible, you may regret it later. And, buying a used one is usually a waste of money when you can get new parts that you know will last. A used one could end up causing more problems in the long run, as it could cause a "hot-melt" in the fuse box and that will cost you even more to replace.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Disposition

My Z is a '72. I 'm at work and its at home in the garage so I can't check (due to a unrelated issue) but if I rememer right the tag inside the door said 10/71

Check the Mfg. date when you get home and post it. I, or someone else can give you the P/N from the CD of Microfiche.

[Rusty1]

If you are in any way handy, fix the switch.

I had a similar problem with mine, remove the combination switch from the car, the turn signal switch is a small metal box at the base of the stalk with three wires soldered on the back. The middle wire is common, the other two are for left and right.

You can use a multimeter to check for any resistance in the switch, the fault will probably be dirty contacts. It is a fairly simple task to prise the switch apart (but be careful, there are small parts inside) clean the contacts with steel wool or fine sandpaper.

When I re-assembled my switch I used a small amount of grease to "glue" the components in place while I closed the switch up.

The whole job took about half an hour and they now work perfectly.

You don't have to be an electronics wiz, I am not...

It is also worth buying a can of C02 electrical contact cleaner the clean the rest of the switch contacts.

[Disposition]

Thought I'd post my progress for anyone else who might be trying to go this route.

I called Chloee at Midwest Z. She has been a big help with some other parts I've needed, and had gotten them to me fast. Unfortunately though she didn't have anything for me. She had 71's and 73's.

MotorSport informed me that the headlight switch for the '72 has been discontinued! And the blinker switch was $219.00!!:dead:

The part #'s in case anyone ever needs them;

25160E8800 -blinker

25540N3300 -headlight

I've sent an e-mail out to z@datsundude.com. Haven't heard back.

I'm considering going with Rusty1's advice.

I may try and use parts from inside the new one and try and put them in my old one. If they look better.

Again, thanks to everyone for their insight. There isn't a place on the planet I could go to get this kind of information in such a short ammout of time.

:classic:

[2ManyZs]

Well, if Andy can't get you a new one and you need one for a 72, I think I have a couple used ones in the shop. If the one you have is for a 71, we could just trade as I could use a spare for my 71.

Oh, if you don't get an answer from Andy right away, I've got his price list here I can e-mail you that also has his phone number. PM me with your home e-mail addy and I can forward it to you.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Disposition

And the blinker switch was $219.00!!:dead:

Damn! And I thought it was high priced when ZI bought my new one (two years ago) at $130.00 :tapemouth !!!!

[Daniel]

Here we go again throwing money and time at a problem.Is it the switch? Maybe.Alligator clip jumpers from radio shack are cheap testers.Bypass the switch as a test.As far as cutting a harness---NEVER--Always be able to put humpty-dumpty back together again!! at worst cut the end from the KNOWN!!! bad switch and use that pigtail to fashion a crossover cable.Rusty1 I like your line of repair.I would add that I was once taught that the glue that holds the sand to the paper will adhere to the item being sanded due to heat friction. It will become an insulator when current makes it burn(carbon).Therfore a small file or the proper burnishing tool(super fine file from electronic store)I use a fine metal diamond file I took from the wife. Don't do it on points either.Oh the shadetree mechanics are protesting now huh?

[240ZMan]

Another point of view on reparing the switch: go real easy on what you use to clean the contacts. Usually the metal has a thin layer plated on the outside to improve the conductivity and reduce the rate of oxidation. Any agressive use of sandpaper will take that off. You will solve the problem in the short term, but it probably won't last as long as it could.

The best thing to start with is the eraser on a pencil. Don't use one of the modern white plastic ones, you want the older style red type. Other nice feature is that it's easy to get it into tight spots.

Of course, if that doesn't get the job done, then go to more agressive things such as sandpaper. At that point what do you have to lose?

[Disposition]

Thanks for the suggestions. Cutting the wires was never an option. The guy on Ebay gave me a full refund including shipping. Too bad it didn't line up. It was only 31.00 for light switch and turn signal switch.

I intend to try and take it apart in the next week or so.

I will try the eraser idea.