Clutch Slave Cylinder

[frank13]

Sudz never said he bleed the slave! and Carl is right . If he didn't change the clutch master, there is no need to bench bleed it. Being that it was not dry. Just bleed the system right and you'll have all the clutch you can fry. :devious:

[240Zdragon72]

Hi all. I have the same problem with my slave cylinder. Driving home yesterday, I went to downshift from 3rd to 2nd and my clutch pedal went to the floor. :tapemouth I stopped on the side of the road to look. Fluid trailed from the cylinder boot down the trans. I thought :dead: Taking a closer look, the boot was torn. I bought a new slave cylinder and it came with a new boot. The guy I bought it from said that I had to adjust my clutch?? :stupid: The slave cylinder that is on the car now does not have an adjustable thing?? It looks like it rests up agenst the fork and pushes it. The new cylinder I got today is exactly the same. Just a pushrod type. Is he right or :stupid: ? Could I theoretically pull the old boot off and replace it with the new boot? ( I have already decided to put the new cylinder on, if it fits.) Engine is an F54 block 2.8L . Besides the adjustable link on some, are all slave cylinders alike?

Thanks

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by 240Zdragon72

..............Engine is an F54 block 2.8L . Besides the adjustable link on some, are all slave cylinders alike?

Thanks

1972 and earlier Z's that I am familiar with had an adjustable clutch slave cylinder. The push rod coming out of the cylinder boot had an adjustment nut and lock nut and the rod went through the clutch fork. Starting in 73 the clutch fork was changed to onw without the hole for the rod and the cylinder changed to one without provision for adjustment. It was deemed a "self adjusting" clutch.

I'm not sure how your car (mfg 5/72) fits into that.

Does your car have a 5 speed trans? If so, the later type of clutch salave was probably fitted.

[240Zdragon72]

Yes, The car has the 2.8 liter with the 5 speed trans. I put the new one on today in 5 minutes. Most of the time was consumed after I installed it. Bleeding the line until new fluid came out. then 4 more times after to get any air out of the line. I thought it was going to be a lot harder than it was. I had a little trouble at a stop light when the trans did not want to go into 1st gear. I pumped the clutch and then it went in. It never happened again on the way home. Now, should I look into getting replacement parts for my trans? If that is the case, I don't need to be driving the car until I get it fixed. Did the same happen to anyone else?

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by 240Zdragon72

Now, should I look into getting replacement parts for my trans? If that is the case, I don't need to be driving the car until I get it fixed. Did the same happen to anyone else?

What replacement parts for your trans? Did I miss something? Slave cylinder is replaced, bled, it "self-adjusted" once and not again (if I read correct). Is there a malfunction somewhere? What problem remains?

[240Zdragon72]

No, you read it right. The car would not go into 1st gear when I was stopped at the light. So, I had to "pump" the clutch for it to engage. The parts I was talking about where for internal transmission stuff. Should I drain the gear fluid from the trans and put new stuff in? Where is the drain plug and filler plugs located on the trans? (so many questions)

Thanks

[Bambikiller240]

I doubt you have anything to worry about unless the symptom of being unable to engage gears continues to repeat itself. If it does, I'd bleed the system once more and see if that resolves it before delving into clutch disc, pressure plate issues. Sometimes a bubble in the clutch hydraulic system will be stubborn and "stick" to the tubing/cylinder walls.

If you haven't changed gear oil in a year or so, it wouldn't be a bad idea to change it. I don't have a 5 speed trans so I can't direct you specifically, but the drain will be on the bottom, and the fill plug will be on the (a) side.

[240Zdragon72]

You are an oasis of knowlage Bambikiller240. Thanks for all the help. :classic:

[getrdone]

If you bleed your clutch again take a piece of wood or the handle of a hammer and tap the soft hydraulic line before you open the bleed valve. It helps move the air bubbles out a little easier. I bought a one man bleeder from Discount or autozone for about 5 bucks. Kind of crappy but it works well for clutch bleeding. Does you clutch feel spongy now?

[240Zdragon72]

Well, I have been driving her around to "break it in" and it seems to feel the same to me. I figure that if something goes wrong with it, I want it to happen closer to home insted of 12 miles away trying to get to work. Besides, while I am building the other engine (2.8L), I can still drive the car around. I just have to keep myself from outdoing those Honda boys for now.

Thanks

[240Zdragon72]

I was just on MSA's website, looking at some new parts. Came across the cylinders. Wanted to see how much they where selling their slave cylinders for. The post said to replace the Master Cylinder and the Slave at the same time. It is bothering me that I should have changed the Master also. It works just fine though. Do I have anything to worry about?

Thanks

[Bambikiller240]

My belief is that they recommend replacing both at same time because the seals in both of the cylinders can be affected by contamination of the fluid or being the same (extended) age. I have "gotten away" with changing one or the other sometimes. Other times the one I didn't replace failed within a few months after the first cyl was replaced. It certainly would not hurt (except your wallet) to replace the master cylinder.

MSA "may" IMO be just trying to make more money by such a blanket recommendation.

If you do replace it, consider buying a

Russell Speed Bleeder for the slave cylinder. Makes bleeding soooo much easier.

It's really a personal call in my opinion whether they both "need" to be replaced at once. Fortunately, when one or the other fails, you can still drive the car enough to get home or to a shop just by matching the RPM's of the gears as you shift. (You do have to take it out of gear and shut the engine off at stops, etc. But at least you aren't stranded somewhere.