Old Style Master Cylinder?

[SledZ]

Due to confusion I am starting my brake problem over.

Anyone know if this an old style Master Cylinder? My Z is a 72 but from everything I can gather I have a 70-71 MC.

If so I have to order the really outragously priced MC or is there a way to convert to the older Master Cylinder?

I bought a rebuilt MC for a 72-76 and it did not work at all, pedal went straight to the floor no matter what I did to bleed it.

[2ManyZs]

That's the early style master. You have two choices, you can use the later style but you will need to change the lines underneath, or buy the expensive master.

FWIW, if you could find a parts car with the later style master, you could unbolt the lines at the bottom of the master, and the lines into the pressure differential switch(the block under the master on the inner fender) and swap the whole thing over.

Just for the heck of it, what is your VIN number and build date? Just wondering if you have one of those early/late cars with a mixture of parts.

[SledZ]

My Vin is HLS3078913

I'll have to investigate my options... Parts cars around Omaha are few and far between but I have time since Winter is setting in!! Maybe Santa will buy me a MC instead of something cool..dangit! Funny how an $800 car turns into $3000 real quick!!

Mine also has the steering wheel that does not have the holes in the spokes, isnt that an early wheel?

Thanks

[abas]

Sledz

I don't know how much you consider to be outrageous but I bought a NEW 70-71 master cylinder from Andy at Datsun dude for I think it was $125. He is at z@datsundude.com. I would stick to the old stlye if that sort of price is OK, as I recall Carl Beck discussing some problems with the servo pushrod length if you change from old to new or vice versa.

If you do decide to swap to the later style I would go for a new one, not rebuilt. They have come up on ebay recently for quite reasonable money ($50)

It does sound as if your steering wheel is a 1970/71, which do not have the cut outs on the spokes

Hope it helps:classic:

Andrew

[kinfish]

Regardless of which master cylinder is used, you must make sure the pushrod on the brake vacuum booster is compatible and adjusted correctly. I recall that that there are at least two different lengh pushrods and they are not interchangeable. To make the system work properly the pushrod must be adjusted to match the piston in the MC. Set at line-to line or leave a small gap (.032). You need to take precise measurements to do it right. If your pedal went to floor after bleeding air out of the system I suspect your gap is too large ...... hence depressing brake pedal is not moving MC piston until gap goes to zero.

[2ManyZs]

What had me confused is why your car has the earlier master in the first place, as your VIN indicates that it should have the later "cheaper" style. Evidently a PO has changed it over somewhere in its life.

If I were you, I'd change it back to the later one and save your money as it doesn't need the early style to be "period correct".

I've got access to a 260 parts car and a 280, so if you want the piping necessary to change it, I can try to get the lines off and ship them to you. Might take a couple days for the weather to clear enough to go back in the woods though.....

[SledZ]

Thanks for all the info. After 30 years who knows all the things that have been done to it, the guy before me didn't!

So if I go to the new style I'll need a different MC, new piping, and a different sized rod to go in the vaccuum booster, crap it might be easier to pay the piper:disappoin

Only place I have seen them is Victoria British ($189.00) so I'll check datsun dude like you say and couple others.

Were getting a nice warm up here but the bottom is falling out next week so any trips to my woods better be soon! Thanks 2Many, I'll hunt around and see what I can find and make it worth your while if need to have you brave any poison ivy!