Best way to clean used carbs

[240ZMan]

I just received a set of 4 screw roundtops that I bought on eBay. They had been sitting on the car unused since '82, and show it. My question is the what is the best way to clean them? The aluminum has the usual discoloration from oxidation which I assume is inside as well as outside. Also, the linkage is anything but shiny. I have a large can of Berryman's Chem-Dip for Carbs which I was thinking of letting them soak in once I break them down. Any other suggestions?

[LanceM]

Here's one that I have used to clean model airplane engines that works like you wouldn't believe. I haven't tried it on a carb yet but it should work the same being that they are all aluminum.

Get an old crock pot, one that you will never ever use again for cooking food. Place the item in the pot and cover it with antifreeze, put the pot on low and let cook overnight. Pull the parts out and rinse with hot water and blow all of the passages clear and dry. Model engines that are almost black from burned on oil and carbon come out looking brand new inside and out.

BTW, be sure to do this outside as needless to say hot antifreeze stinks.

As far as carb dipping chemicals, the only ones that I have found that really work are the ones that are not enviromently safe, and have a long list of dangers and warnings, the longer the list the better they work, If you are in CA you probably won't be able to find any like that

I have a gallon of dip that was given to me 30 years ago, best stuff ever, it has eaten through 2 metal cans over the years and is doing it's best to get through a plastic bottle now, cleans carbs like you never seen. The fellow that gave it to me said that he let a carb body soak overnight once and it ate away at the body so to only let them soak for an hour or so. Works so well there is no way it is available now not that I have any idea what the heck it is since the original can is gone!

[Chino 240Z]

I don't know about soaking things for long periods of time? but carb cleaners and sprays should to the job at getting the grease and grime off. Try a couple of old tooth-brushes to speed things up. What ever you use to clean them with it's not a bad idea to neutralize any chemical with water after then air blow them clean. As for shinning them up, Mothers polish and elbow grease works for me. Good luck.

[240znz]

I have found that CRC Carb-o-clean works well. As Chino 240Z says, use a toothbrush as well to get into those OMFG places.

Sorry if I am being ignorant but I'm not sure if you get CRC products in the US.

[240ZMan]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I started last night with the Berryman's soak can along with tooth brush scrubbing and then rinsing in water followed by a final cleaning with spary carb cleaner. That seems to get almost all of it off, although the linkage isn't going to recover as well as the aluminum.

[240znz]

You can take off all the linkages and get them re-pasivated at a metal platers. All the catches and linkages under my bonnet were done by the PO and they look new. Get a few quotes to see how much maybe?

[240ZMan]

That's an interesting idea that I wasn't aware of, but I don't think I'm going to go that way. I'm on a tight budget, and if the money doesn't make the car faster/handle better, or more reliable/safer, then I'm not doing it right now.

[Bruce Palmer]

Daniel, that budget statement probably makes my next $600 suggestion un-necesary then, huh?

Your parts are going out today....

[Chino 240Z]

I got my old set of SUs working and looking good the same way. But I'll tell you something, the carbs that Bruce and Steve can put together are in my opinion necessary! I'm on just a tight a budget as the next guy, but this weekend the new SUs gave me that "$600 seat of my pants drive" that I was looking for! This car just woke-up from a coma, new life!

Oh by the way Bruce, the new decals that Pam sent me look like they are worth $600 alone! Thanks, they are proudly on the car. We are headed for Willowsprings Friday night for the VARA carshow and vintage races this weekend!

My old SUs are now backup which I doubt I'll need now that these new ones are on.

BTW Bruce, tell Steve the .101 nozzels are now working fine, (operator error). I will wait to send the .100s back after the Dec. 3rd Willowspring event, so I will be sure that all is running fine and I don't need them. Cindy says she thinks she wants to buy them just to have. How much are they? Thanks again.

:classic:

Craig

[Bruce Palmer]

Glad the operator error thing has cleared itself up......

Those nozzles are $30/pair with a $30 core charge so if you want to keep them see if you can round up a pair.

Anybody out there with old fuel nozzles, don't throw them away. We need them to rebuild. We rebrass the bottom piece and send them scurrying off into the market place to live another life. Another of those items that are NLA and without recycling, we'd all have big funny holes in the bottom of our SUs. Just keep your eyes open and snag any you see.

Steve also does custom nozzle sizes for particular needs like Craig's so let us know if you're in Colorado or your driving circumstances require more fuel or whatever......