Few Questions!

[Xargon321]

First Should i hook water to my manifold its ready for it just not hooked up, my car idles low when i take it off choke after it warms up it goes away after a couple of mins driving around

(ie 750 reg idle when i first take it off choke it idles about 500)

Second my Rear defogger dont work, i get power back to the glass but it doesnt heat up in the slightest, Would a continuity tester work on this and can this be fixed with the glass in car?

Third Could valves out of adjustment cause me to get only about 13-14 mpg?

*edit* Forth is the heated aircleaner hose helpfull to in cold weather? i dont have that yet eather the mounts are there but not the hose?

Btw its a 74 260z 3 screw Round top Carbs

Im going to try and get the valve adjustment done tommorow morning, and i was thinking sence i was working on it it coudent hurt to do the water if it helps and check out the defrogger cause its starting to get cold around here!! THanks in advance for any help!!!

[Bambikiller240]

ZTherapy recommends the Carb Pre-heat water be connected only if the car is cold-blooded to distraction.

The hose to direct air from near the exhaust manifold to the carbs will help the car warm up quicker, so Yeah, I'd hook that up. You can ge the aluminized hose from a local parts store for next to nothing. It's really cheap.

Here's a post to the IZCC Mail list that I saved in case I needed to fix my hatch glass defroster:

>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 23:07:45 -0600

>Subject: <240> RE: Rear Window Defroster

>

>Henry wrote:

>

>I have a 1972 240z. The rear defroster does not work that well.

>Only the middle element on the window works. Any ideas?

>Henry

Tom wrote:

What can happen is that the connectors get corroded, the feed circuit wiring

stops working, or the grid on the window gets scratched away. You can fix

these things, but it takes patience and some great eyesight if the problem

is in the grid on the window.

Try the feed circuit wiring first. Do a continuity check on the connectors

coming from the car to the grid. If you get continuity, then check the

connector on the window the same way by touching both output sides with the

checker, bypassing the grid itself. If the connector checks out OK, then

the problem is most likely in the grid itself... Otherwise, fix these

first and try again.

Here's where the fun comes in. I purchased a kit for grid repair at my

local auto parts store. It contained a small bottle of copper colored

fluid and a brush, plus a cardboard template, and instructions. They were

actually readable! You'll also need a grease pencil that's used to write

on glass, to mark the breaks in the grid.

The net of it is that you need to find the breaks, use the fluid to bridge

them, and you're in business again. The problem is finding the breaks...

The best way I've been able to do it is to have humidity in the car on a

cold day, turn on the engine and rear defroster and look carefully along

the grid where it didn't start to clear for small spots (maybe the size of a

pencil eraser) where there was some clear glass. These are the sites of

the breaks. I marked them with the grease pencil, turned off the car and

defroster, and wiped the glass dry at those points. Then I applied the

stuff and let it sit for a couple of hours before repeating the process

until I got the grid repaired.... A long process to be sure, but it worked.

Hope this helps!

Tom Bell

IZCC 2802

[Smokey]

Great post on the defroster, Carl. I was going to suggest the same process, but I could not have gotten that detailed. I have heard that the process is very good at fixing the problem, as long as you can identify all the breaks.

[Daniel]

Problem #4 causes problem #1. The car is sucking cold air.Thats the reason for the missing heater tube .The first thing to heat is the exhaust manifold. You want to supply that heat to your carbs.As for the rear defroster.Any time this is mentioned I think of the old movie "gumball rally".The guy ripped off the rear view mirror and said--The first rule of race car driving,Whats behind me doesn't matterROFL .Real world is the repair method Carl so excellently detailed is the best short of window replacement.Problem is you must remove the window or the hatch to get a flat work surface.As a rule I do not fight Mr. Gravity with chemicals above my face.I have seen the box type 12v lighter plug blower heaters in car mags.Perhaps that type non-intrusive seasonal fix my resolve your problem.I can't draw a straight line with a pencil much less liquid metal.I would see my errors every time I looked in the rear view mirror.Also a previous post determined a new window had a 30 minute warm time before any results were seen. Makes ya' go HMMMM huh?