Rear A/M sway bar help

[Zvoiture]

So al I need to do is get a shorter bolt and nut and re-use the center spacer and use my new bushings. Is there a way to adapt a solid endlink on a bar with eyelet ends? I have only seen them on threaded or pinned ends.

steve77

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Zvoiture

OK, flipped the hting over and found some really shord end links in the salvage bucket. These must have been them. This is off the jack, but nothing tightened. Looks like it will work! Thanks.steve77

Sure looks like it should be that way. I'm gonna save this picture for when I get around to installing my rear sway bar. Do you by chance have a measurement on the center spacer for the links you are now using?

[Zvoiture]

3/4"

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Zvoiture

3/4"

Thanks for the measurement, Steve

W O W ! !

That is short. I'm going to check the end links that came with my bar next time I get the chance. (probably Wednesday) I don't think mine are that size, but the ones you have look perfect on your car.

PS, remember to get Grade 8 bolts when you go shopping for new ones.

[Zvoiture]

Yeah, I think I will buy a shorter bolt and just cut one of hte new spacers down into two 3/4" pieces. That way everything will look new. Funny thing: my new bushings and washers will not fit on the old bolt--that was my first impulse: Use the old bolt and nut and spacer and everythign else new. It must be 9/16, not 14mm. That is, unless I find some sort of 360 degree swivel for an eyelet. Gonna have to go browsing on that aisle tomorrow. Would love to find a way to adapt to solid links.

Are sway bars pretty hard steel? Could they be threaded or drilled?

steve77

[Zvoiture]

First time back on all fours in a few weeks. The corners were fresh back from the machine shop and have been sitting here for a couple weeks. New spindle pins, urethane bushings, everything cleaned and painted. 25mm sway bar front and not-so-fat aftermarket rear, new Tokico struts, BRE springs and tubes, 3" X 1/2" lug studs installed, rear hubs removed and replaced with new seals and severely packed. 280 hubs. T/C kit. Adjustable camber bushings. Solid diffy mount. 280 rear drums. Front rotors turned. Front shrouds removed. Carbotech fronts pads and Porterfield R4s rear shoes. SS brake lines. 83 R180 and halfshafts (stub-style). Not bad for one afternoon, huh?

Gonna need to borrow someone's baseball bat. those fenders are gonna need some work. There's no engine in that yet, and they are only 225#. REar is gonna rub too when cell is installed and seats and tranny and cage and...and...and...

steve77

[Bambikiller240]

Sway Bars are made of hardened steel, but I don't see why you couldn't drill through one. Not sure if "threads" would be the way to go.

BRE springs? Where does one get BRE springs and are they for adjustable coilovers or the stock type spring set-up? Can you elaborate on the "Tubes" that you mentioned. Maybe I'm too sleepy, but I don't understand what they are.

If you did all that install work in one afternoon, you were really busy! Wish I could get that much done so quickly. OK, I admit, I'm kinda lazy.

Someone told me that an Aluminum bat works better than a wooden one for rolling fender lips. Anyone else know if that is true? I haven't tried either myself.