All power goes dead on start

[WoodyReck]

This is my first question as I learn about this new toy of mine. '81 280ZX 2+2. After buying it, driving it home, and around for three weeks, suddenly she went all black when turning the key from ON to START. Everything electrical goes dead. Several friends said look at the starter. Pulling it is no big deal, and I found out it wasn't coming all the way out, and was grinding the teeth on the starter pretty bad, so I bought a completely new one, solenoid included. But, the problem still is the same. Let's see what ideas are out there. Even though I have worked on million dollar high speed machinery, older car restoration and repair is very new to me. I will probably look at this post a year or two from now and laugh at how stupid I was back then, but I gotta start somewhere!

Woody

[seerex]

ok first does it make any noise at all when you attempt to start? if not you might want to check for an inline fuse , alot of datsuns have them and when one goes its like you don't have a battery in the car, check the manual or a service book < chiltons> for it, try that if you are not getting any noise good luck Jeff:geek:

[WoodyReck]

Now I feel like I am in a CarX commercial. Yes it does, let's start with after the normal 'dings' that it makes as the key is first put in the ACC and ON positions. Just after ON there is a 'hum' similar to the sound of the fuel pump on my other car, and it comes from the passenger side rear wheel well area.

Just before all the lights go black, and I mean EVERYTHING electric, those wonderful 'dings' too, there is a short clicking from around the glovebox. There is one thing there that many of you may not have, an alarm. Where I live that is the last and most unnecessary accessory. It appears it only acts a noise maker, and does not have the capability to disable anything, like the starter for instance.

The lower dash is completely torn apart for several other reasons too. The aftermarket stereo was very poorly installed (not planning on going back to the OEM on that one though) and there was poor heat/air flow, from a wonderful mouse nest in the duct work.

What is the best manual for me to get? You mention Chilton's and I knew that as a default answer, but wanted to know if there were any other books that other Z owner found to be more useful or better done.

[2ManyZs]

The best manual to get is a Factory Service Manual.

It sounds like it could be a problem with either the alarm system or the ignition relay. Or could be a comination of both.

Try unhooking the alarm system first and see if that solves the problem. Lots of times, it is the alarm system that has a problem and won't allow the current to the ignition relay.

[WoodyReck]

I have checked several different forums, just absorbing info, and found that eBay will get me one for about 20% less than a Nissan dealer.

[MakDiesel]

Dunno if this is your problem exactly but I've had similar 'issues' with my '81 280zx coupe. I could have power until i tried to crank her, I'd hear the pump but not even a click of the starter. turns out it was a $1.06 fusable link that was causing me so much frustration. See I was running an Audiotech 1800watt 'mean machine' powering one Audiobahn 12" sub and apparently the nearly 2k of extra eletricity melted the fusable link (closest to the front of the car) and thus disabled the alternator and battery charge delivery. So before you blow cash on a book, start small and check all your fuses, mainly the 'links' (pop the hood and the compartment will be on the passenger side wall of the engine bay, about a foot from the battery and behind the cruise control actuator (if you have one)....its jus a lil black box with a labeled cover....check the one marked "ACC") good luck and if it doesnt work, buy the book

[Rusty1]

I know this sounds really simple, check your battery terminals and especially your earth connection to the engine block.

I sometimes happens that there is enough of a connection to power everthing but just not enough current is getting through to kick the beast over.

I am probably way off but it is really cheap to fix.

[WoodyReck]

Yes, it was in the battery connections. I had to take a break from the car, I had a lot else going on. I had ordered a new set of quality wires, and bought a new battery, just didn't have time to install. When I went to remove the old battery, there was actually a very small contact surface area on the terminal, and is was snug, but moved about 15 degrees. Would have been a cheap fix, as you said, but I wanted to do these things anyways. I did buy a Chilton's online, only ten bucks, and have found several sources for full service manuals.

Thanks for all the help!!!!

Brian

[Ben]

Good stuff Brian. It's always good when the fix is cheap & easy!