smog buster

[MariaAZ]

The distributor doesn't have points. According to my Haynes manual, they don't call it electronic ignition; there is a magnet involved. I am totally comfortable working with mechanical distributors, having torn down and rebuilt a few for my Roadsters. The Haynes manual doesn't say if I need to replace anything in this distributor when doing a tune-up. Is there anything I need to tweak (besides adjusting the timing with my stroboscope) in this type of distributor?

Thanks!

[Masashi]

MariaAZ, your distributor for 260Z is not same as 240Z. Magnet type means transister type. You don't need to replace I think.

And I got information from westZ as follows. If you are interested in, just contact Ms.Chroe but I don't know your center linkage can use for 240 carb.

Also I found beatiful modification (260Z carb to 240Z carb) in gallay

(engine section page 1 or 2?) Better check it out!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Masashi,

Thank you for the additional inquiry. Right now, I have 2 pairs of used SU

carbs. I believe that both sets are rebuildable. One set that I checked

seems to be fine (the pistons move freely, easily), but I have not used

them

on a car so I do not know if they would be OK without rebuilding them. I

would sell them for $100 (2 carbs), plus shipping of around $15. Your

friend

would need a center linkage for them. I do not have a used linkage for

these

carbs. I believe the linkage is still available new for around $25.

Let me know if these would interest you. I will check the availability of

the center linkage.

Thank you again,

Chloe

[2ManyZs]

Yup, since you already have the better distributor and ignition, about the only thing you would need to do is to make sure the air gap on the reluctor is set correctly, kinda like setting the gap on the points.

FWIW, if you do a major tune-up, and your carbs are synched and mixture adjusted properly you ought to be pretty close to passing the smog test.

Perhaps a tune up with a new hotter coil, new high performance wires, new plugs of at least equal to original or perhaps one heat range hotter, and making sure the timing is set correctly and the valves are adjusted properly will give you what you need.

[MariaAZ]

2Many & Masashi,, you both are being SOOOO helpful! I will definitely check the gallery for the conversion photos, but in the meantime I'm bound and determined to work through this flat top thing!

I pulled the plugs today; they appear to have normal wear with the exception of #3, which is wet and smells of gas. The Z is getting horrid gas mileage, and I'm thinking it's burning way too rich. If these were SUs, I'd know how to adjust the fuel mix but these flat tops have me stumped. I read somewhere that worn flat top carbs run rich (one of the carbs was rebuilt by the previous owner only a few months ago) but there are some tricks to lean them out. Any ideas?

\

[2ManyZs]

Well, it's been almost 20 years since I tinkered with flat tops, so I'm probably not going to be much help in that department....

Here's a link to an old thread that might help you a bit...

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=42120#post42120

Oh, and if you don't already have one, a Factory Service Manual is

going to be invaluable with any year Z...

I know where you can get one in AZ for a fair price if you don't already have one. If you want his price list, Private Message me with your home e-mail address and I'll send you a copy with his contact info.