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Custom Wiring Harnesses


ZHadMan

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Originally posted by frank13

I run a relay for my headlights from a toggle switch from switched power. Sure would be nice if we could do everything we needed to do from the drivers seat with out all those high amps to melt your new combo switch or fuse block.

There are several people on the net who've added the relays while still using the standard headlight switch on the stalk. Is this what you're talking about?

Here are the links I have bookmarked; I'm sure there are more:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm

http://www.zccne.addr.com/tech-docs/headlight-relay-upgrade.pdf

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Hey Mike, that's pertty much what I have done. Except you mentioned going through the combo switch. I diddn't see any info on that in your attachments. But it is always nice to see what your doing instead of always having to stare at it while your trying to figure it out. I will eventually figure out how to run back at to combo switch OEM stlye without using the high current white/red feed wires, infact I whould like to run everything possible through low current/low voltage to relays. I always hated having to pull over and shut down the car while my electrical system cools off etc. etc.:devious:

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Looking at the two diagrams, it seems like the 240 and 280 are wired differently. One says to ground the #30's. The other says that the #30's are the hot side. Are the two cars different? Am I reading these wrong? I'm so confused....:ermm: :ermm: :ermm:

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zzstom I tried to respond to your question earlier with a nice little article I wrote just about relays but this damn F$^$G sight just keep sighning me out. so when I went to submit my response I had to log back in and lost what I had written for you. Sorry. Still love the sight though. The #30 terminal is the direct feed from B+ to power the headlights through the contacts inside when the coil circuit is complete.

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I do Only use one to start out with. But it's better to have the two, each one power only one headlight. This way you can use a five prong relay to power low/high beams and still have higher voltage at the bulbs. Not at the switch. The whole purpose of this is to keep the high current out of the frail electrics of the 30+ year old Z's.:devious:

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Those relays are so cheap and easy to replace, I would just put a spare in the box with the fuses. I think it's also possible to set up your system so there is a failsafe switch or a shunt you can use to get yourself home.

That's assuming you don't make things with a single relay as complicated as with two.

:geek:

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Those relays are so cheap and easy to replace, I would just put a spare in the box with the fuses. I think it's also possible to set up your system so there is a failsafe switch or a shunt you can use to get yourself home.

That's assuming you don't make things with a single relay as complicated as with two.

BTW, you'd need a SPDT relay with "center off." Is there such a thing? forgot to say that before.

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Originally posted by frank13

Hey ZHadMan I just wanted to know if YOUR personal preference for a new harness is updating it for better performance, better lighting, less weight, simplicity, etc. etc. Or just remaking a flawed harness new?

Surprisingly I have had many requests for wire to wire replacements. I would definately like to produce a product that improves upon and works better than the original. I have been paying close attention to threads/write-ups/advice on how to improve the electrical system of the Z and I would like to work some of those improvements into my harness. What, reasonably, would people like to see changed, from stock, on the wiring harnesses?

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I think that the original wiring system could be improved, but not by much. I have been looking for the grounding locations, but it seems that the only ground ( on my Miotchell's wiring diagram) is at or near the alternator. I believe this is why the wires all (corroded). No place for the oxidation charges to go to, easily.

One the same note, the way the wiring goes from front to back, like for turn signals & parking lamps, makes debugging easier.

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The only ground is near the alternator, you say?

I need to check "all the grounds" on my Z, according to my mechanics. My electrical system seems possessed. After changing my bulbs in the taillight assemblies, the taillights no longer come on when I switch the headlamps on, but now the brake lights work, but when I press the brake pedal, the right reverse lamp comes on...etc. etc. That and interior lights that didn't work on Monday suddenly work on Tuesday. The wiring harness on my car is admittedly butchered, but appears as if it *should* function properly. Any suggestions? If there's only one ground, then hey...my "day-long project" was just drastically shortened in duration!

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