Custom Wiring Harnesses

[frank13]

Hey ZHadMan, I just want a harness that IS NOT OEM!!! One that works. I don't care that it worked when new. I care that it works now. The OEM has short comings peroid. We should not have to put up with them with the kind of tech we have at our disposal. I want a clean arse harness with good juice and great grounds. When that branches off directly to where it has to and no where else. One that doesn't power the radio from a gauge. Simple, lightwieght, dependable, and easy to work with. As well as up to date connectors, e.g. GM weatherpak, Duesch( I don't remeber how to spell that). I could have already replaced the oem connectors with new ones, but why. The problems inherent to this electrical system will just melt them as well. A harness that works in a different way to do the things we need it to do is what I want. And little by little I will finds good ways to bypass or impove what hasn't already burnt up. But I always figured a simple harness with half as much wiring would cost less than a "Painless". More so if it was a Z lover just doing what he/she could instead of a big company just ripping you off. I don't know. I hate my Z:devious:

[TomoHawk]

there should be a ground connection for each section; frontlights, engine, dash, interior, rear lights. One of my next things for my car is to add these.

gema-

I looked through my wiring Diagram ( pretty sure it's from Mitchels, got it in 1992, so I think it's correct) and everything electrical I've worked on so far is on there . And, on it, there is a BLACK wire going from the front to the back, with a spur for the engine & dash. Every ground wire from the gauges, lamps, etc. connects to it. After tracing for about an hour, I only found one (ring terminal symbol) between the starter symbol and the relays. This might not mean anything, but things on my wiring diagram are pretty much the same place on the car, front to back, left & right.

Concerning your delemma, I suggest a test lamp, maybe a buzzer (radio Shack, 12V) and confirm the wires under the dash (brake light) first, then in the back. I did this when I spliced in a new lamp socket for the brake, to confirm wires were correctly marked and things worked as expected.

Good luck if you chose to take on this mission. Secretary will disavow having any knowledge. This mess will self destruct...

[Tourniqet]

I am glad you are so exited about this zhadman, because after trying to diagnose some of my cars electrical problems I wanted to rip ALL the wires out...

I would most definantly buy a wiring harness that was fit for the z. I was knocked on my arse by msa's price for their blade fuse box, that is rediculous. I dont know much about wiring but heres the weather inside my brainstorm.

Someone said something about many people wanting different things depending on originality of the car, and other such factors. It seems simple (although probably is not). You can have one fuse block with everything most cars would need, and then just sell the Pieces of the harness. Like everyone would need the engine, and lights, etc. but you could then just sell airconditioning and heating harnesses, that would plug into the rest of the base harness. A separate piece for eletronic ignition.... Anyway like I said I dont know much about wiring, and this is probably just wishful thinking, but maybe it could work?

Anyway I am behind you all the way on the harness, I am just glad There may be hope for the birdnest in my car. I also will enjoy tearing that son of a ***** out...

[Zvoiture]

I am looking seriously at the Painless 12-circuit 'pro' harness for my race car. Sounds pretty ...um...painless. I'm guessing it comes with everything but switches and possibly end connectors. For $289, sounds pretty hard to beat. I really only need the 8-circuit, but this car IS current on its registration, and if anyone ever wanted turn signals and such, it would be easy... not really looking forward to this part of the project. I have NO CLUE what I am doing.

steve

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by Zvoiture

I am looking seriously at the Painless 12-circuit 'pro' harness for my race car. Sounds pretty ...um...painless. .............. not really looking forward to this part of the project. I have NO CLUE what I am doing. steve

That is not a good sign, might want to pick up TWO kits, just in case the first one goes up in smoke!

just kidding, I understand the feeling as I am not electrically skilled.

[TomoHawk]

I don't think the painless kits would work well in a Z car. It has fuel injection, & electronic ignition, how do you wire that stuff in? You'd have to get new wiring harnesses for those, which there aren't. Then you'd have to figure out where to splice it in.

Not so painless now, huh? Unless you want to use an engine from a new chevy. The Painless stuff just doesn't work on the original Z.

Zhadman--

I went o the library the other day, and the Mitchell's book for 1978 imports had the complete wiring diagram. The only thing about that was I couldn't get it to lay flat enough to get a really good copy.

[ROOPZ]

I think the painless wiring is a good choice if your existing wiring is a mess. True...you will have to keep the Z specific wiring and figure out how to incorporate it but that should not be too difficult if you take the time and study the wiring schematic. I used a painless wiring harness in my Camaro and I love it. It will definitely make things work when they are suppose to! Best of luck

[frank13]

The ORIGINAL DATSUN 240Z was not fuel injected nor did they have electronic ignition. Jeez! Not everybody drives 280's. I thought this site was more for the 240Z. If you had a 240 before, then went and bought something that came after I guess that's cool. But when always making refrences to the 280Z/ZX models when talking about the 240 model, IMO I think it throws the thread off into a little chaos. :devious: Did you even read the thread from the start???

[TomoHawk]

Originally posted by ROOPZ

I think the painless wiring is a good choice if your existing wiring is a mess... I used a painless wiring harness in my Camaro and I love it.

You sound like an AD for Painless! Seriously, I doubt the painless system will work in a Z unless you do a LOT of custom stuff because of the Wiper switch, light switch, hazards, etc. I've studied the wiring for over a year now, and it makes sense from the Datsun point of view, and the only new wiring I would put in there is to replace ONLY certain current-carrying wires wit the exact same colors and gauges as the original.

TIMO, he painless stuff will only work

for new installations on newer, American cars.

[ZHadMan]

I (IMHO) feel that TomoHawk is correct. I looked into the Painless system before I even entertained the idea of creating new harnesses. While I feel their system is comprehensive, I do not feel it is completely... ahem... painless. It would require modification in order to integrate effectively with the Z car's electrical components. I am not going to put down, nor degrade, thier product any because many individuals, with the time and tools, have successfully used them in thier cars.

That being said... MY harness will also require some modifications to install. I am merely attempting to minimize the amount of work, time, and tools it takes to do so. Naturally, my opinion is a bit biased ().

Cheers,

Keith H

[ROOPZ]

What you guys are forgetting is that the painless wiring will NOT replace all of your existing wiring. It mainly replaces the power to the sub-systems or accesories. The wiring for the wiper switch is retained but the power from the fuse box to the wiper motor is replaced by painless. There are lots of sub harnesses that you would not have to re-build unless they are screwed up. I forunately do not need a new harness but I sure as heck would go painless before I spent thousands on a nissan harness...unless of course I was restoring a one of a kind car. To each their own I guess!

[ZHadMan]

You are correct, the sub-harnesses will still be in-place. These pigtails (wiper motor, headlights, taillights...etc) cannot be easily replaced with new... unless you can open them up and re-solder pieces in their stead. The Painless system will NOT replace them. You will, however, need to integrate the two. The stock connectors will not be able to be retained unless you splice into the existing (30+ y/o) wiring or find new terminals. Many of these old connectors are brittle or, in some cases, melted.... and therefore unusable. Substitute connectors would have to be used.

There is nothing WRONG with the Painless harness... it's just GENERIC and therefore not tailored to the Z car. There are not many wiring options available to the Z owner. Nissan does not have 'new' harnesses and a Painless, or custom, setup is all there is. Hence the purpose of this thread. A specific, easy to install, 240Z wiring harness... that does not cost thousands of dollars. :classic:

K