Sorry, I haven't been on too much lately. I have been extremely busy with work and have had a few financial (and time) setbacks. I'm still gung ho, though... and progressing... slowly. This is a pretty big job and I don't want to rush it too much. Stay tuned though, I should have a bit more free time (in the upcoming months) to dedicate to this endeavor

I am also collecting parts to rewire/update portions of my 240Z electrical system. Fuse box, Headlight circuit, LED side-markers and tail lights, instrument lights, Radio, etc...

I am using a blade type fuse box and circuit breakers from Waytekwire. The box is similar in size, shape, and # of circuits to the original and runs about $30. Check it out at:

http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_63

I will also be using weatherpack connectors for the engine compartment-updating to a GM Managed L28ET All new engine harness needless to say!

For my soon to be started 240Z Restoration, I chose the lead plated-solid brass solder-in (Use a torch-a soldering iron can't touch this) battery terminals found here:

http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_36

with the color coded stainless steel battery bolts found here:

http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/216_37

with the wire from West Marine-it is less prone to corrosion because the entire length of each strand is tinned. Waytek has great wire at a great price, but it is not tinned. I want to do this once. I will also wire in a high amperage relay to keep the under hood amperage too low to start the car unless a hidden switch is triggered(It only takes OSG with a quarter and the knowledge to use it to take our cars)

I also am using a battery picked to fit a Volvo S80, the terminal locations are correct as is the size, and the battery has a vent fitting built in-run a piece of tubing out the bottom of the car, no fumes or fluid on the sheet metal to cause cancer.

the tinned wire sounds like a good idea from the corrosion point of view, but if you need a wire for current, you should use a plain stranded copper wire. As you know, the electrons in the wire move along the surface, so the tin would decrease the current capacity.

Yes, I believe you are correct, the tin will lower the current capacity, but I seriously doubt that, short of using a vey sensitive meter to prove your point, I would ever see a difference between 2 gage tinned and 2 gage in the operation of the gear reduction starter.

I usually use 3mm, 1000- strand wires on my radio boat batteries. In that situation, you can see a difference to the ordinary 60-strand wires. The wires are cool to the touch, meaning less resistance.

Pure copper, of course.

I would not use that kind (a 2 gage wire with 60 strands)of wire-it is household wiring, All of what I would buy would be type 3 or better(1040 strands or more)-now I understand your thoughts, and hope this makes this situation clear:

Even the best wire will get hot if it has a bad connection due to corosion, but a clean, well connected 2 gage wire made up of 1,040 tin plated strands should have absolutely no trouble carying the Starter current for a Z (less than 60 amps) for 5 feet without heating up noticeably.

This post is just to get the two threads together to lower confusion.

zhadman,

I will say I must agree with mike, Kitkos, and others... I think with a good clean product, a wiring harness for the ealry Z's, would probubly put you on the map!!

No other company to my knowledge has this (unless custom made)..

Giving much thought into this would be pretty exciting... It would be ideal to make a harness that can be used "generally" throughout the early Z's. (Excluding the F.I. of course).. general car harness!! lights, accessories...

Another idea for you!!!!..........FUSE PANEL REPLACEMENTS FOR ALL YEARS!

Besides the 240Z, there aren't to my knowledge, any replacement fuse panels ( ready to wire) other than custom for the 280Z's.

I know I, and many others in my area would be interested in all these ideas.

Brian K.

aka: aZcarbum

This project is definately do-able. It just takes quite a bit of time to determine commonality/differences between years and will require even more time to map out a plan of action for production (fixturing, jigs, wire lengths...etc.).

I just don't have much free time anymore. I barely have time for my GF, let alone my car (I can't sleep WITH my car! )

I also dropped my plans for the L24 and am installing an SR20 instead. I will keep my OE harness intact, but re-producing it has become a secondary priority.

Another big concern is liability. If I produce a wiring harness for Mr. X and Mr. X installs it incorrectly and his car burns to the ground with him trapped inside I could be held liable. Gruesome, yes. Probable, No. But there is always that chance and I'm not quite prepared to deal with that issue yet. In the future I will likely set myself up an LLC before I start selling anything.

This subject is still on my mind and I come up with new ideas all the time. I just gotta get some things sorted out first.

ok.................Great concept .... I did not read all the previous post but here goes.

I will make it simple.

I need a 100% complete wiring harnes for a 72 240z.

Taillights to headlights (including attenna)

The only question I have is................................................

How long and do you have a Paypal account?

Said it before and I'll say it again...anything I can do to help, let me know. I plan on redoing all the wiring in my Z if/when I do a turbo swap, and I imagine with one huge sheet of plywood and a lot of time on the wiring diagram it could be done. I don't know where to source connectors, but I'm sure some here do. This, for me, however, is a project that has to lie dormant for a decent while. I have the time/energy, but I'd much rather kill rust first.