Maxima Alternator Conversion

[Jayru]

Well, wish me luck tomorrow when i try the 6amp diode i have...

[hls30.com]

Carl,

I will look for my interchange book(from Raido Shack) tomorrow, and see what I can find. Allelectronics has some great deals, aparently because they are not the most familiar with what they have. I have been buying parts from them for years, but always knew what I was after-it is very dissapointing to know that they either don't have an interchange book, don't know how to use it, or don't want to be bothered.

Will

[venom42]

I have been searching (both here and at Hybrid Z) for a definitive answer on this. I am looking to do the Maxima swap, as the stocker just cant keep up since I put in the electric fan. It will actually drain my battery a little if I am running the lights, heater, and the electric fan at the same time. I want to use the Maxima Alt to get 90 amps, as opposed to the 60 amps for the ZX (the reman alt that is in the car now is 60 amps). Not interested in the fab work to use the GM one, and too broke for the $199 Z Specialties one. So here goes:

What year Maxima Alt is a direct bolt in? I have read that the '95-up requires some fabricating, and I do not need 125amps. I would like to use the '86-'94 because it is 90 amps. Does anyone know if it will bolt directly in (assuming I change the pulley)? I have seen that SOME of the '85 ones were 90 amp. If I get it from a junk yard, is there a way to verify that it is 90amps? On a link from one of the other posts (the one with the wiring pics) they list the '95 240sx as being bolt-in as well. Anyone had any experience with that?

12-17-2003 10:20 PM

blitzkraig Yeah I know how to do the conversion to internal regulation and the diode as well. The maxima alternator doesn't have the same T connector though. It has a rectangular connector that plugs into the side and has the two spade connectors parralel. One wire is yellow and about 18g, the other is a 10g white. I'm assuming the thin wire is probably the warning light. Anyway, I'll talk to one of my buddies who does wiring to figure it out. I still need time to get a volt/fuel guage to replace my amp guage anyway. Thanks for all the help guys!

Did you figure out which wires go where? From looking at the pics of the aftermarket ones, they use the same parallel spade connector you are talking about. I want to make sure my AMP gauge will still work.

Otherwise, looks like I just jumper the wires on the car side of the VR harness, according to the diagram posted earlier?

[beandip]

Another Reply To A 3 Year Old Thread

[venom42]

why create a new thread when the search function lead me here?

[240ZMan]

Why did you select the Maxima alternator? The 280ZX alt is a very easy swap and still gives you 60 amps. I have that in my '73 along with:

- twin electric fans

- upgraded H4 headlights with 90/100 bulbs (hey, it's dark where I live )

- upgraded Honda blower for interior fan

- driving lights tied to the high beam circuit (they come on whenever the high beams are on)

There are no issues with the alt putting out enough current. The only issue is at idle with everything on, the dash lights dim a bit, but the ammeter still shows I'm not discharging the battery. And I keep my idle around 650 rpm. If I increase it to 850 there is no issue at all.

Perhaps the real issue is your stock alt is not giving you its rated output? If that's the case (and you could check it pretty easily at most auto parts stores) then it's not so much that you need to upgrade as you just need to get one that works properly.

If you already have the Maxima alt, then I guess I understand why you want to use it. But the 280zx alt is a very simple swap (mine is from an 80). Might be worth considering.

[venom42]

Why did you select the Maxima alternator? The 280ZX alt is a very easy swap and still gives you 60 amps.

I have tested my current one (even though it is only about a year old), and it seems to be working properly. I do have one of those solid state VRs that I put in when I replaced the alternator. My idle is set around 1100-1400 rpm (cam will not let it idle well below that), so I dont think it is RPM related. I guess I was just thinking that if the 60 amp one I have now doesn't handle it that the ZX one wouldn't either? Are your results typical? If so, then it might be worth considering. Does being internally regulated make that much of a difference?

I have not purchased one yet, but was going to this weekend. I can get either the Maxima or 240SX alts for about $35 from a junkyard. If I go ZX, then I can get a reman. one for about $45 from Oreilly auto.

[240ZMan]

In theory it shouldn't matter whether it's internally or externally regulated. The original VR was a mechanical unit which was crude by today's standards because they are all solid state now (transistors, no relays). I went with the 280zx because I had it. I've never exceeded its capacity but can't tell you if I'm typical or not.

I just wanted to challenge you to be sure that the problem was a lack of capacity, and not a failing alternator. I've only done the 280zx swap, so can't speak to how easy/hard the others are. But if you are sure you need more than 60 amps, might as well go bigger!

[dhoneycutt]

I went with the ZX alt swap with mine and I am running an electric fan, electronic ignition and about 2200 watts of stereo and unless I REALLY crank the stereo I don't have any issues with the 60 Amp alt.

[Walter Moore]

If you have.. ahem.. "high intensity" headlights, or off-road driving lights, and a high powered stereo with all the other electrical "accessories" necessary these days even 60A could be cutting it close.

In fact, even with standard headlights (65W) and standard fog/driving lights (55W) if they were all on at the same time you would need 30A just to drive the lights.

Coupled with a high powered stereo I can see where a 90A unit would be desirable.

[240ZMan]

In fact, even with standard headlights (65W) and standard fog/driving lights (55W) if they were all on at the same time you would need 30A just to drive the lights.

Actually it works out closer to 20A:

2 x 65W = 130W

2 x 55W = 110W

---------------

total 240W / 12V = 20A.

In an early Z, that's the bulk of the load. A typical 14" fan for the radiator is no more than 15A, which leaves at least 25A for ignition, fuel pump (if electric), cabin fan, and radio. I think the only scenario for early Z's where you need more than 60A is with an extremely high power stereo, or if you did a V8 conversion and have a huge fan on the radiator. Some of the factory 2 speed units pull 35A on their higher speed.

[venom42]

Right now I have a 14" fan mounted, that pulls 15A, but it does not handle it when the car has to idle for a long time. Not as much of an issue now that it has cooled down though. I have a 16" fan for it, but it pulls 26A by itself. I have been waiting to put it in until I upgraded the alternator. Since its a 280 it does have an electric fuel pump. I have upgraded to H4s, but the bulbs are only 55/65. I want to upgrade the ignition as well, so I am thinking I may try the 240SX alt. to get 90A. According to the "Z Car Creations" page, it bolts right up. You only have to swap the pulley and figure out which of the 2 spade connectors go to which on the "T" connector. The only thing that has me concerned is that I have not seen that particular alternator discussed as a swap anywhere other than on that site.