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Maxima Alternator Conversion


blitzkraig

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Ok so I got a Maxima alternator that puts out 90 amps and I've been spending the last hour trying to find a good description of how to wire this thing in. Alas I keep getting random bits here and there but nothing concrete. Has anyone here done this and would like to take pity on me by writing a good article on it?:ermm:

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There is an article on converting to an Internally Regulated Z/ZX alternator in the Tech Articles section. The principals should be the same, even if the connectors are different (I don't know if they are or are not different).

Have you read that article, and/or found it to not be useful for the Maxima Alt.?

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I read the article on Zhome, but the description isn't really that great. I'm more of a visual person too so pictures would have helped (the ones on Zcarcreations.com are kinda confusing). I know I need to cut off the plug coming from the voltage regulator and wire it up to some other wires at the alternator, but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to wire it back into the harness alternator connections or directly to the alternator! Maybe I'm missing something. Anyway, I'm doing this because since I put in an electric fan and upgraded my headlights, everything goes dim at idle at night. Since the Z's charging system was made to accomodate just the stock system I figure I should upgrade.

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Originally posted by blitzkraig

I read the article on Zhome, but the description isn't really that great.

There is an area of ambiguity in the article on ZHome (also on our site as well) regarding where and how to install the diode. The installation that I have seen used the connector from the old Voltage regulator to install the diode. The diode was placed between pins on the former V Reg connector that corresponded to the WHT w/ BLK and BLK w/ WHT wires on the Car Harness. this avioded chopping into the OEM harness to make the connections. IOW, the car could easily be converted back to External Reg Alternator.

Now, I haven't done the conversion, I'm just reporting what I saw on a friends car, so confirm for yourself the locations of the described wires at the V Reg connector and wire the plug accordingly.

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Some things to think about. The reason you dim at idle is the rpms are so low the alt output is minimal. In an effort to find the answer to that 240 quirk I have come up witha few things that sound good in theory only. 1) change the pully size on the alt making it spin faster at idle. NO, that will pull the car idle down as the alt. is like a clutch on a go-cart. The more rpms the magnetic field increases so does the alt resistence. 2)Ok then turn up the idle to compensate for the alt resistance. NO, With the resistance already there when you increase rpm's more force is put on the fan belt. Causing it to break, slip or burn. I'm still working number 3. Keep in mind that 90a is only charging the battery at the proper rpm's. At idle my guess it is very close to stock(minimum output if any) The difference between 60a and 90a charge is time to return the battery to full charge.12v is 12v

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Originally posted by Bambikiller240

Now, I haven't done the conversion, I'm just reporting what I saw on a friends car, so confirm for yourself the locations of the described wires at the V Reg connector and wire the plug accordingly.

Have done this conversion on both cars. Can reccomend it as it doesn't chop up the cable, used alternator from a 280zx, plugs fitted directly into the unit without modificiation, requiring only the removal of the VR.

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You don't need to cut anything, all the jumpering can be done through the harnesss connector.

The diode is quite important though to prevent the field charge from feeding back through the ignition thus preventing you from turning the car off.

post-5178-14150793329993_thumb.jpg

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