Maxima Alternator Conversion

[Dave240z]

I'm not sure you really have to figure anything out at this point. The alternator, assuming you're using a Maxima or 280ZX IR type uses the same basic plugs as the original. The same "T" connector you pulled off your stock alternator plugs dirctly into the back of the IR alternator. The larger Red/White wire reconnects to the alternator "B+" stud just like the original as well.

All you really need to do is jumper the harness connector as shown in the pic. One of the jumpers is just a simple wire with spade terminals and the other is a diode with spade terminals.

The harness connector has a total of (5) wires although there are (6) slots available.

The connector on my car consisted of the following colors, yours should be nearly identical if not the same.

Connect the white wire to the yellow wire with the wire jumper. This connects the battery to the "S" input.

Connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire using the diode. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V. The cathode end (end with white stripe) connects to the white with a black stripe wire and the anode end connects to the black with a white stripe wire.

The black wire is simply Ground and can be left disconnected as I did, or if you feel the need to ground the alternator you can run a wire to the alternator case. Also, don't forget to re-install your filter capacitors if they were installed (you can see one in the pic I provided, there's another on the back of the alternator on my car). These help with radiated noise emissions but aren't essential for basic operation.

I would advise checking this with a Voltmeter or at least a test light before proceeding and turning on the car though. Basically, the wire that reads positive (+12V) when you turn the key in the ignition to "ON" is the wire you want connected to the anode (non striped) end of the diode. The cathode end connects to the other striped wire.

Here's the reason for all this if you care. The alternator needs what they call "excite current" to start generating electricity. This excite current energizes the field windings which allows the alternator to generate power once it is spinning due to electromagnetism. This excite current is provided by the black/white stripe wire when you turn the key to the "ON" position. The problem is that once the alternator is turning, it can sustain the "excite current" on it's own and no longer needs the current provided by the black/white stripe wire. If the black/white stripe wire is directly jumpered to the wire that is connected to the excite current the alternator will "send" current back through the black/white stripe wire, through the ignition and on to the coil which in turn, makes the car impossible to turn off since the alternator has basically bypassed they key. Adding a diode instead of a wire allows the current to flow FROM the black/white stripe wire into the alternator to excite it during startup. Once the car is running, and the alternator is generating it's own excite current, that current is not allowed to flow TO the black/white stripe wire because of the diode which has the unique property of only allowing current to flow one way.

[blitzkraig]

Yeah I know how to do the conversion to internal regulation and the diode as well. The maxima alternator doesn't have the same T connector though. It has a rectangular connector that plugs into the side and has the two spade connectors parralel. One wire is yellow and about 18g, the other is a 10g white. I'm assuming the thin wire is probably the warning light. Anyway, I'll talk to one of my buddies who does wiring to figure it out. I still need time to get a volt/fuel guage to replace my amp guage anyway. Thanks for all the help guys!

[Zedrally]

I know you already have the Maxima alt, but for simplicity's sake wouldn't it be easier to obtain an Alt from a Zx. They have the same plug configuration and you don't need to chop up the harness! I picked mine up *2 for $50AUD.

[san_maru_zed]

MY alternator seems a bit different to the ones you guys are talking about. On the "T" connector on the Alternator, it only has one spade, and that is for the yellow. So I can plug my original T connector from my 260Z into the back of the alternator, but only the yellow one is actually plugging into anything. Does this mean that I only have to bridge the yellow wire and can just leave the White/Black wire alone ?!

Cheers

[Jayru]

Hi guys,

It seems there are 2 alternators listed for the 280zx. One for 79-80 and one for 80-83. Which is required for a bolt in swap in a 72 240?

Thanks,

Jay

[Jayru]

Ok, now i'm really confused. I reviewed the thread that Bambikiller posted about the swap and i have two questions.

I went to 3 local parts stores near me and no one carries a 70 amp turbo alternator. Whether you say turbo or non turbo it lists the same 60 amp alt. Am i missing something?

Also, the diode that the article reccomends is no longer in production. Can i use any kind? I picked up a 6 amp diode, the guy at the store said it will work and is a bit of overkill, but he said better safe with a bigger one than be sorry. Should this 6amp diode work?

Electrical is not my strong point. Thanks for any help.

Jay

[Bambikiller240]

Don't know what to say about the 70 amp alt. except try MSA or VB; maybe they can help you.

As for the diode, did you look for it at an Auto Parts store or a place like Radio Shack? I would think that someone who knows what they are doing ( an electronics store) would be able to cross-reference to an aceptable subsititute. I don't know much about electricity either so I'd be in the same situation as you.

Good luck and be sure to post how you make out.

[Jayru]

As for the diode, did you look for it at an Auto Parts store or a place like Radio Shack? I would think that someone who knows what they are doing ( an electronics store) would be able to cross-reference to an aceptable subsititute. I don't know much about electricity either so I'd be in the same situation as you.

Good luck and be sure to post how you make out.

Yea, i went to auto parts stores (don't sell diodes) and radio shack, after i looked through the diodes they had (which they didn't have the one needed) I asked the guy to look the # up. After it wasen't listed in the catalog, he called the main Radio Shack hotline. Turns out that diode was discontinued with no replacement.

So if anyone knows if a 6amp diode will work in it's place please let me know. I'm going to just try it on sunday and see what happens if i don't get any advice otherwise. I just picked up the 60 amp internally reg alt, anything's got to be better than the dead ext one in there now.

Jay

[hls30.com]

I believe you will find what you are looking for here, cheep!

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?type=store&category=205&orderby=INVENTORY%2Estore%5Fquantity%2CORGANIZATION%2Ecategory%2CINVENTORY%2Ebrand%2CINVENTORY%2Emodel&start=16

WIll

[Jayru]

I believe you will find what you are looking for here, cheep!

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?type=store&category=205&orderby=INVENTORY%2Estore%5Fquantity%2CORGANIZATION%2Ecategory%2CINVENTORY%2Ebrand%2CINVENTORY%2Emodel&start=16

WIll

Nope, no 1N5062 diode. It's not listed.

[hls30.com]

Interchange...or perhapse the next page.

Will

[Bambikiller240]

I believe you will find what you are looking for here, cheep!

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?type=store&category=205&orderby=INVENTORY%2Estore%5Fquantity%2CORGANIZATION%2Ecategory%2CINVENTORY%2Ebrand%2CINVENTORY%2Emodel&start=16

WIll

Sent these guys an email last night. Here's the response I got today:

Dear Sir,

We do not carry this particular diode. We do not have a technical

department to help you with a replacement part.

Sorry

Thank you,

Alma

All Electronics Corp.

(800) 826-5432 ext-308.