260Z Truth

[matria]

Keep your N36 intake man. and do as Carl says with the carbs.

[AxtellZ]

Ayan- first, as Carl pointed out- check out ztherapy. They can supply any part you need, and all the advise to match. Essentially, all you need is to bolt the old SU's on. You need the linkage that goes between the 2 carbs from the earlier style. Also need to hook up the throttle return springs to the heat shield underneath. Intakes are fine, fuel rail, etc all work the same. You will need to "replumg" the water lines. I simply unscrewed the fitting from the thermostat housing & went to find a brass plug the same size, and rigged a plug at the backend too. Pretty simple all in all. Any problems, give a shout. Are you going to the z show at Appleby college near Toronto August 8th?

[AxtellZ]

that would be "replumb" the water lines. My 73 i ran some heater hose temporarily to bypass the manifold. Also, the phenolic spacer between carb & intake *may* be a different thickness, so you may need the old ones.

[beandip]

SYMON, If you can install a early air cleaner this would be a good mod as well. the air box has tuned intake tubes that with the thicker insulater add to the ram effect and will gain you some HP . The numbers you are stating that you achieved are really good indeed , for a stock engine . ORANGE 260 , You will need the linkage from the early set up , at least the section that is between the two carbs . This part is of different length. You also need the thick insulaters that fit between the intake manifold and the carb. The fuel rail you have should work . The 260 intake manifould will the one to use. In this descussion I dident read anyone mention the lowering of compression as a factor that reduced performance in the '73 and later cars. Another reason for the larger displacement. The E-88 head on the '73 has lower compression than the E-88 on the '72. There is vary little difference between the '72 and the '73 , other bumpers and emissions junk , this includes the carbs. Gary :rambo:

[orange260z]

Thanks for the replies!

Carl, I did go to the Z Therapy website, but did not "walk away" with a clear understanding of what I need to replace at a minimum. It sounds, from the replies above, that I don't NEED to replace the "balance tube" (what is that, by the way? is that the same as the fuel rail?) even though replacing it may be the way to go in the long run for cleaning up the engine bay.

Jeremiah, it's been a real challenge to try to figure out what should be "hooked up" and what shouldn't - the previous owner did a real hatchet job with all the emission control stuff, and probably ended up taking off stuff that didn't need to be taken off or disconnected. I've just got a mess of vacuum hoses with screws on the ends, bare spigots in the manifold, etc. It's no wonder the car runs like crap!

The thicker phenolic spacers/insulators that you and Gary are referring to, where can I get them? Is that something I can get through the dealer, or ZTherapy, or other suppliers? Being in Canada, dealer items are the easiest to get (shipping from US often ends up prohibitive once duties and brokerage are factored in).

Gary, I'll have to see which linkage my spare one is... and is there any ADVANTAGE to the 260 intake manifold? and do I want to get my hands on an earlier head?

Thanks all!

cheers,

Ayan :knockedou

[orange260z]

Thanks for the replies!

Carl, I did go to the Z Therapy website, but did not "walk away" with a clear understanding of what I need to replace at a minimum. It sounds, from the replies above, that I don't NEED to replace the "balance tube" (what is that, by the way? is that the same as the fuel rail?) even though replacing it may be the way to go in the long run for cleaning up the engine bay.

Jeremiah, it's been a real challenge to try to figure out what should be "hooked up" and what shouldn't - the previous owner did a real hatchet job with all the emission control stuff, and probably ended up taking off stuff that didn't need to be taken off or disconnected. I've just got a mess of vacuum hoses with screws on the ends, bare spigots in the manifold, etc. It's no wonder the car runs like crap!

The thicker phenolic spacers/insulators that you and Gary are referring to, where can I get them? Is that something I can get through the dealer, or ZTherapy, or other suppliers? Being in Canada, dealer items are the easiest to get (shipping from US often ends up prohibitive once duties and brokerage are factored in).

Gary, I'll have to see which linkage my spare one is... and is there any ADVANTAGE to the 260 intake manifold? and do I want to get my hands on an earlier head?

Thanks all!

cheers,

Ayan :knockedou

PS I won't be going anywhere far with the car this year, by the looks of it. I hope to make it to the Syracuse convention next year, though!!

[Bambikiller240]

Thanks for the replies!

Carl, I did go to the Z Therapy website, but did not "walk away" with a clear understanding of what I need to replace at a minimum. It sounds, from the replies above, that I don't NEED to replace the "balance tube" (what is that, by the way? is that the same as the fuel rail?) even though replacing it may be the way to go in the long run for cleaning up the engine bay.

(major snip)

Thanks all!

cheers,

Ayan :knockedou

Not sure they can tell you what NEEDs to be replaced without you disasembling the carbs and then talking to you. Anything that you will need, they should be able to get you, or you can get remanufactured carbs from them. ($)

Balance tube is a chamber that connects the two intake manifolds (each flows to 3 cylinders) so that the air flow is somewhat "balanced" between each group of 3 cylinders. It also contains the bosses that the carb linkage is mountd onto.

As for an advantage to the 260 intake, some racers claim that the 260 manifold flows better than the 240Z manifold. However I am told that the difference (if any) is minimal as measured on a dyno.

Spacers *should" be available through the Nissan dealer. At least they were a year ago when I bought a set.

[beandip]

As Carl stated the supposed increase in HP is only at flat out high RPMs. There is no reason not to use it though. The linkage I am speaking of is the rod that attaches to both carbs in between the two , the round tops require a different length here. I have removed all the emissions stuff and only am running the pcv systime. The only two vacume lines you will need is one that is directly in back of the front carb that attaches to the vacume advance on the dist. and the one that attaches to the vacume booster for the brakes. You can eliminate the rest. This is you if dont have to comply to emissions checking . The car might pass but they dont like it if the junk is missing. all the best , Gary