Clutch Replacement Q's

[Gav240z]

Im a bit desperate to get my car back together, I've just pulled the Gbox removed the clutch from the flywheel to inspect the brand.

It's a RPM clutch dunno if anyone outside Australia know's the brand it's by PBR I think. Anyway it held up pretty well till it got worn down and I was gonna directly replace it but I can get an entire kit of the same brand for $200 at trade discount.

My problem is I have been told I will need to machine the flywheel and replace a bearing that's either in the flywheel or the actual end of the crank shaft.

I've never seen this bearing before has anyone here? Also is this true do I need to machine it if I don't will it make the clutch wear alot quicker?

I hope someone can machine it for me tomorrow before new years .

[g260]

Gav,

I don't know about machining the flywheel, someone more mechanically minded will need to chime in here, however the bearing you are referring to in the flywheel or end of the crankshaft is the pilot bushing which fits into the end of the crankshaft. The end of the main drive shaft in the gearbox sits in this bush when the gearbox is installed.

At one stage I was getting some noise from the gearbox when I had the clutch in and it turned out to be the piolt bush which I lightly greased when I changed the gearbox.

geoff

[Gav240z]

getting it done will let you know what happens at this stage looks like a lightened flywheel and and some small goodies.

[Daniel]

Getting the flywheel resurfaced is just like turning the brake drums or rotors. It just provides a fresh smooth surface for the new clutch. I would suggest replacing the release bearing.It is supposed to be permanetly lubed. The fact you needed to lube it is not good. Also I would replace the rear main crankshaft seal. Its very easy and with the flywheel out it, you will never have a better time. If the old one should leak it will waste your new clutch.. I know you want it back together ,but if its done any way other than correct you will be in there again sooner than you thought.

[St.stephen]

daniel is correct. Some auto parts stores. like my loca NAPA have a turning lathe on site and will turn rotors, drums, and flywheels for next to nothing. As daniel stated this allows you to have a fresh surface for your new clutch. I would also inspect the flywheel for cracks and any other anomolies. I'd give the ring gear a look also just to be certain you won't have any issues with the starter engaging the flywheel. Most replacement clutch kits come with the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and plastic alignment tool. I would agree as well to have a look at the rear main seal while you are in there. If this leaks, you'll get oil in your clutch assembly therefore causing slippage.

[Gav240z]

Ok well thanks for the enlightenment here's an update as to what's happening.

THe clutch in there is a better than stock pressure plate and it should hold up pretty well. It's not a brass button clutch but my friend said it would be a prick on take off on the street.

He says the existing clutch i have is pretty good well the pressure plate is anyway.

Were getting the teeth in it replaced a new throw out bearing and he's giving me a lightened flywheel which involves changing the pulley to a 240z style one to balance them up.

THe seal appears to be pretty good on the back of the engine but I was under the impression you need to remove the sump to pop it out, I will take a closer look tomorrow. I'm not 1 for doing it half arse worse comes to worse i'll bite the bullet and have to go away without it :disappoin . But i'm not gonna let that happen .

I may have to aquire the pilot bearing seperate but i'm chasing those things up tomorrow while it's all being machined etc..

It will cost me more than i thought but at least it will be a good set up my friends car pulls low 13's and he managed to light up both rear wheels quite easily. (Not that I do that kinda thing myself).

Then the hardest task is aligning the clutch up again, a friend of mine has the tool and im told an old driveshaft can be used also.:cheeky:

[Daniel]

The rear seal just pops out and the new goes in its that simple. An old mechanics trick for removing the pilot bushing. Fill the hole in the bushing where the input shaft (tranny)usually goes with grease. Use an old input shaft or something round and metal that diameter. Put it in the hole and tap it with a hammer. The grease in the hole will push the pilot bushing out as you hammer in. Cool huh?

[Gav240z]

Well to for those who were wondering how I went with the clutch well here it is.

Ok i called up a guy who i only met once but used to work with Zcars alot at about 10pm 2 days before new years eve. He told me to bring my old clutch over and flywheel plus pressure plate and he'd get it machined reco'd and back new years eve or the night before.

Anyway he had offered to do that for me which i was suprised. He sent it off to be done and got it back new years eve.

Apparently my old one was used in alot of 240z race cars well the pressure plate was but it turned out the old one was pretty stuffed.

So I got another one with the pressure plate teeth hardened, and heavy duty clutch itself so more gripping force. Plus I had a lightened flywheel come with it. That used to be in a race car .

I worked till 8:30 pm new years eve and was almost done but the clutch adjustment was all wrong and I couldn't work it out so I had to leave it and go away in a friends car. I tell you lifting a g/box three times into a car on your own is not fun.

Anyway came back a couple of days later finished the job with the guy who helped me get the clutch all done before new years eve and now it works great no more rough take off.

I also discovered that a driveshaft bolt had come off and the others were loose as a result no wonder the car felt so rough.

All four are now on so I feel better about that and the car feels smoother .

Nick the R31 flywheel I'm told has a different bolt pattern and wouldn't suit the Z without modification so that's why I didn't go for your set up don't know if you agree disagree with this?

Anyway I'm happy it cost a bit mroe than I thought but it seems to be going well now and I have done 1 more thing I set out to achieve next is engine head change over or another engine build.

[Murph]

Hey Gav,

How much did you end up spending? This is something pretty high on my list as my clutch is almost totally rooted.

[Gav240z]

The total cost was just under $500 I think a large portion of the cost was the freight sending it to the country and back where this guy does it all done express.

It probably wasn't even neccessary in the end I ended up with a new clutch plate , heavy duty clutch, and lightened flywheel.

It's a really good setup from what I've experienced so far anyway.

The flywheel was cheap, $50 because the guy who i went to wanted to get rid of it as he is moving out.

To get a flywheel (properly lightened) would cost more.

However the engine revs drop quicker with the lighter flywheel but the car does rev a bit quicker.

I really notice it grip when I change gears especially second the car just shoots forward. You may not need a set up like this if you just have a stock L26.

However I plan on a few ponnies more than what I have now.

There are a few things to consider when changing the clutch that I had not taken into account.

1 machining of existing flywheel and pressure plate. You also have to make sure the teeth on the pressure plate are even heights mine were not.

You will want a rear bottom engine seal(crank).

Pilot bearing if you can do it I did not but it is recommended.

A clutch alignment tool is not neccessary but would make it a bit easier I used a bolt to align it.

You will definately need a torque wrench.(i knew this though)

You should also take a measurement of your throw out bearing holder(not sure on correct name) but take everything in when you are getting it reco'd or renewed.

Does that help?

:classic:

[Murph]

Sure does. More money than I have.

Still a good price though.

[Gav240z]

it was more expensive than I had originally thought also but I replaced most of the stuff in the area.

I also got a set up that will be good for up to around 300HP.

The guy who helped me out is running an L28 that is pushing just under 300HP non turbo on SU carbs.

I will probably be getting him to help me build a similar set up in the near future once I have the money .