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N36 Intake Questions


Go240Zags

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:ermm: I have a couple of specific questions regarding N-36 260Z manifolds and connecting the carbs in general. I recently got my hands on a nice set of N-36 Intakes and had them bead blasted. They look pretty nice. I also had a nice balance tube prepped at the same time. I went to connect my early 4 screw roundtops to them and noticed that the studs seem to be shorter. I couldn't get both the lock washer and washer on and barely could thread the nut on with just the washer. Is this normal? Were the insulators narrower on the 260Z's with flat-tops? Secondly, should there be a gasket on both the manifold and the carb sides of the insulator. In other words do I need four gaskets. Probably silly questions. But I'd like to get these set up right before they go on the car. I switched to the N-36 having read they give slight performance boost and looked like something even I could do. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

:o Gary

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Yes, the studs are shorter and I think they are a different diameter as well. The N36 manifolds were used with a different thinner spacer and there should be gaskets on both sides. My 260Z had the 3 screw carbs with the N36 intake manifold. I believe mine used the stock N36 thin spacer setup however I have heard, probably on this site, of people fitting longer studs and using the 240 insulators.

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Thanks for the info Royce, I just got back from NAPA and found out the same info. I ordered a couple of the thinner insulators and bought some gasket making material in case my gaskets look nasty after I undo all the work I did yesterday connecting the carbs to the manifold. However, the stud sizes seem to be the same diameter as far as the nuts go. I don't have the skills and patience of having new studs fitted -- unless I find out that using the narrower insulators will effect the performance of the carbs. The insulators were just about $8 apiece at NAPA. I also checked the cost of a pair of new 240Z insulators and they were about $20. It seems like I saw a pair of new 240Z insulators go for about $28 on ebay the other day. Gary

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Originally posted by GaryZ240

It seems like I saw a pair of new 240Z insulators go for about $28 on ebay the other day. Gary

Yes you did. I was watching those insulators also and when the price past the price charged by normal retail Z car parts sellers I logged off. Some folks will pay any amount for anything :stupid: :stupid:

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Hey GaryZ240, do you have the part numbers for these parts? For reference when one of the other members (me), needs to replace these items we could use the exact part #'s. That way when the pimple faced kid or the old man who both hate their job doesn't want to look them up we can say "here let me have two of this NAPA part number!" If you would be so kind and post it here, if you still have the information. Thanx:devious:

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:cry: Okay, I braved this unusually cold Sunny Okanogan Valley day to get one of my new N36 manifold insulator/gaskets from NAPA. This one came in from Seattle, the other one won't be in until Tuesday, it's coming from Portland, OR. The NAPA part number for the narrower insulator they used on the 260Z manifold is NGAG30706. It can be found at:

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=23486591&prmenbr=5806

They also looked up the insulator/gasket number (again) for the regular 240Z insulator/gasket for use with the 240Z manifolds. It is actually for the later 1972-1973 Carbs as it has four holes on the bottom of the insulator instead of just 2, for a total of six, rather than four. It is also pointed on the bottom side, rather than square, the extra holes are for the water cooled carbs (I think). This works fine with the earliest 240Z carbs '70-'71 and for the '72s, because the extra holes will just be covered over where not needed. Here's the listing for this insulator NGAG30694 on NAPA:

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=23486580&prmenbr=5806

So to review:

260Z (N36) manifold used with early SU carbs: Part # NGAG30706

240Z (E88) manifold used with early SU carbs: Part # NGAG30694

The N36 insulator is alot narrower and should allow me to get the washer/lock washer/nut on without having to trouble of changing the studs to longer ones. I'll post pics of the two different insulators, they come with gaskets on both sides. Unfortunately NAPA site doesn't have pic that shows different thicknesses. When I fetch my UBS cable from work for my digital camera I'll try to post pics of the two types of insulators side by side, as well as before and after pics of them on the carbureators. I know this is a long reply, but I'm trying to get the info right. Now I just want some polished linkage and new nuts and screws on the carbs. Saw some stainless steel replacement screws (with Allen Heads) for the bells/pots (whatever they're called) once on ebay, should have bid. Went to my local Ace Hardware to look, but they're all outside (under big roofed/fenced-in garden center) in the wind chill and after 10 minutes looking thru they're minimal supply of metric stuff I bailed and bought some ear-muffs and mittens inside (they're also a dry goods/dept. store). In small towns most stores don't stay open all day Saturday so my choice was limited.

Hopes this helps (At 4 miles from the 49th Parallel) I'll talk to you all later, Gary

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Somehow I can't get the right picture to show up, so I've deleted them from the last post and will try again. Here are the two insulators side by side.

post-5416-14150793375098_thumb.jpg

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ROFL Here's a little Photoshop multi-image of my 70-71 SUs with the N36 intake. They still have the insulators designed for the earlier intakes. Consider this the "before" picture and I'll try and post the "after" view when I get them on. I want to replace all the bolts and screws with nicer ones and the vacuum thingy if I can, but don't know where to get. Otherwise I guess I'll just do a paint job. Gary

post-5416-1415079337664_thumb.jpg

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Gary, the stainless screws you were referring to on Ebay for the domes might have been listed by one of our members. Kmack was selling them for a while, but I don't know if he still has them, or perhaps he can tell you where to find them. I got a bag of them from him, and the only idents on the package are #10 screws.... they are allen head stainless steel screws, so probably most any good hardware should have them, or a Home Depot/Lowe's if you have one nearby.

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Thanks 2ManyZs, another member said he'd look for some at his local hardware store and send them to me at cost. Lost here in rural America. They might have them here, but the place I checked had all that kind of stuff in the garden center, which is outdoors and it was about 20 degrees out with a lot of wind chill.

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  • 4 weeks later...

we have a fantastic supply here in Portland . Parkrose Hardware they have the largest selection of metric that I have ever seen . some chrome plated and stainless. If you let me know what you need specificly by size and lingth and thread pitch I can get them for you if you just pay the cost and shipping. Now as for using the thinner insulater, remember what it is . A insulater If you live in the warmer areas of the country and or are running a header you may find that you will have vapor lock problems especially if you have disconnected the water to the intake manifold. Another sourse of bolts is Highschool Pharmacy they have Ace hardware in part of the store and some of them have a pritty good selection. When I go the Parkrose I always see the cycle guys there buying the chrome cap screws. I used stainless stove bolts on my 240 front bumpers to fill the holes left when I removed the black rubber. I polished them and they look just like chrome bumper bolts . Works for me I really rather not have the rubber .

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