Drilled Rotor supplier

[Mark Schue]

Has anyone used rotors from this supplier?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33564&item=2451585002

A set for under $100 seems like a fair price.

Wondering about quality and durability. Looking at his e-bay feedback, people were happy with the rotors when they are delivered. How about after 1K miles, 5k or 10k? Any problems with rotor wear, warping or premature cracking between the drilled holes?

[SteveK]

I was interested in these as in the UK availability of anything but the stock stuff it difficult to say the least, I sent 6 emails (with drawings) over a period of 3 days to them asking them to confirm that the 240 discs (rotors) were of the 40 mm offset not the later 260 ones and I got no replies at all?

Then about a week later I got a confusing barely legible email that basically said cannot help you as they have all gone on holiday.

Excellent, obviously the holiday student cover hadn’t been taught how to use a ruler or to reply to an email properly.

[frank13]

You guys should look at www.arizonazcar.com

& www.modern-motorsports.com

Both make trick big break kits.

:devious:

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by frank13

You guys should look at www.arizonazcar.com

& www.modern-motorsports.com

Both make trick big break kits.

:devious:

Ross at M.M. does have a fine product, but at a much greater price than the "under $100" for the rotors mentioned. Of course, the above mentioned kits will stop your car better. It's all in the budget you have to work with, how much you want to alter your car, and how you need it to perform.

[frank13]

Hey bambilikker240, looking at Steve & Mark's rides I would figure them wanting the best part the could buy with out paying outrages prices like for a brake upgrade kit from say a Euro tunners shop. At $100 bucks for cross drilled and slotted rotors, that by the post seem to be stock replacement items IMO is not a deal. The stock solid rotors where not great when heated. Reduce material from said rotor to cool is not cool. Bigger then cut into would be better. My cousin bought a set of "Power stop" cross drilled deals for his 2000 Chevy Xtreme S-10. And they make noise, rattle, but do not seem to be any better.

So what is it worth to stop better after you get her to run faster.:devious:

[SteveK]

Appreciate the replies but the problem I have with those set-ups Frank is two fold

Firstly

Getting them into the UK

Shipping

Customs charges

Value added tax

All of which can easily add another $300+ onto the price

Secondly

Those are pretty damn near race set-ups and on British roads with a speed camera around every corner my licence wouldn’t stand the temptation :classic:

By going to the slotted/grooved route at $100 they were cheap enough to try a set and see if they improved some of the drawbacks of the stock system without having to do any heavy modifications to struts and suspension and worry about sourcing new minilite replicas (only just had them) hey if they didn’t work I would happily cut my losses and put it down to experience

[2ManyZs]

I'll add my 2 cents in on this one.....

First off, grooved rotors do nothing for the braking ability. They used to a few years ago, when the brake pads used gave off a gas as they heated up and the slots were there to give the gas a place to go, besides between the pad and the rotor. This is a non-issue with todays brake pads, except perhaps for the bargain basement type pads at most "chain store" auto parts suppliers. The slots are there more for looks than function today, they do nothing to promote air flow across the rotor, or help trap heat in the rotor to prevent it from transferring the heat to the pads/cailpers/fluid.....

Now, drilling the rotors does have a function, as it gives the rotor a bit more surface area for cooling, and it allows air to travel not only on the surface of the rotor, but also through the rotor, therefore aiding cooling to a certain extent. Will work only at its optimum if air is actually ducted to the rotors.

Now for the point that will create much debate, and there is no definative answer to.. does drilling a "stock replacement" solid rotor aid cooling?

IMO, only to a certain point, at which time it becomes a huge handicap.

My opinion is this, up to a certain temp range, drilling a solid disc will aid cooling and braking, yet, when that threshold is crossed, the rotor has less mass to prevent warpage and cracking. It also has less mass to hold or store the heat that has built up, at which time the heat will transfer either to the pads/caliper/fluid, or the hub/bearings and cause more problems. Where that threshold is would have to be determined by a lot of on track testing, or in a controlled environment.

IMO, a vented rotor is the best alternative even on that is stock. It has the mass to prevent warpage, and has a much large surface area, and, they benefit from having vanes built into the vented portion which will aid cooling even more. Drilling a vented rotor will give you even more cooling, without giving up too much rotor mass. Not only will the rotor have more surface area, but, with the vanes in the vented portion, it will allow "flow-thru" ventilation of the entire rotor surface to a small extent. Again, without ducted air to the rotor, the advantages are limited.

In summary, drilled solid rotors would be best only on a street car, or an auto-X car where you will not be subjecting the rotor to extreme temps for a long period. If you will be using the brakes to the point where the rotors will be subjected to extended periods of high temps, then the only way to go is vented rotors if at all possible, or solid rotors with good ducting for fresh air.

I'd much rather trash a set of solid rotors to warpage or heat checking, than to have a catastrophic brake failure due to overheated pads, or boiled fluid.....been there, done done both.

[frank13]

I agree with 2ManyZs, to the extent that I can get stock rotors to heat up the point where my calipers will bind. Nice glazed rotors every shade of the rainbow. In the city. Other than that for everything else you get a witness. 'Amen brother. Very well put. Back to SteveK. Wow that's F&%#ed up. We should do something about getting the members like SteveK some way to get the trick stuff with out having to get rapped. There has to be some way to get other members these parts. I would hope if I was in this situation someone would want to help me out. And I hate people. But the members here are Z People!! 2ManyZs let me know via my email if I could in any way be of help to you or your mates over there! Cheers Frank. :devious:

[Mark Schue]

The current asking price for the rotors is $65 for the set. Since I have not heard from tons of people on the board saying "awesome deal, fit perfect, got 40k miles out of mine", I'll probably pass on em.

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by frank13

Back to SteveK. Wow that's F&%#ed up. We should do something about getting the members like SteveK some way to get the trick stuff with out having to get rapped. There has to be some way to get other members these parts. I would hope if I was in this situation someone would want to help me out. Cheers Frank. :devious:

Countries have laws about importing stuff. Tariffs must be paid, like the customs charges and Value Added taxes mentioned. What a surprise, imagine that; a government wanting to shove it's hand in it's citizens pocket every chance it gets!

If someone trys to send stuff and claim it was a "gift", it might be possible to circumvent some of these fees, but that person would be opening themselves up for legal problems. Much as I'd like to help SteveK or some of our "Down Under" friends, I cannot afford to take the chance with regard to the legal issues. I'm not sure it would be considered "Smuggling", but it would be pretty close to that.

[Ed]

Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a stock pair of rotors. Then design a pattern on your computer to fit the rotor (or copy one off the web). Transfer the pattern to the rotor. Then take it to the drill press and have at it? (Offcourse don't forget to chamfer the holes). Sounds like maybe two hours worth of work.

[2ManyZs]

You could, but, then you'd need to re-heat treat the rotor, as the heat from the drilling will affect the hardness of the metal. You could end up with a brittle rotor that cracks and causes a disaster.

Drilling should be left to those with the proper equipment.