Fuel tank maybe?

[seerex]

Ok got my z running great su's all tuned then when I was driving it back from the muffler shop it started sputtering and spitting like it was not getting fuel, made it home and waited 5 mins and it fired up fine , then the last 2-3 times it will fire up and run ok for a bit then start the sputtering part and today I couldn't get it to fire without that, the car has sat for almost 2 years from the previous owner, it ran fine when I first got it running so I added a touch of fresh gas to help things but I think I loosened up some bad stuff, got a guy in town who wants 125-160 to clean the tank , came highly recommended from a guy I regularly use, any big NO NO's when removing the tank other than not lighting my cig with a blow torch? thanks all for reading my long winded thread

[Bambikiller240]

Only advice I can give is to get the car on stands as HIGH as you can to give more room underneath when the actual lowering of the tank occurs. Flush out BOTH of the fuel lines while the tank is out of the car and start with a clean, new filter. Depending on the condition of the inside of the tank, you might want to consider having it sealed while you are at this. Saves on having to do it later if/when rust develops.

[seerex]

hhm should also replace the lines since I will be back there ? not sure if they rot at all when back there , Carl I haven't forgot about the tape , I had to get another vcr mine died I should have then sent out by sat I hope , thanks , also any fittings I should order ahead of time or seals for when the tank goes back in ?

[Bambikiller240]

Originally posted by seerex

hhm should also replace the lines since I will be back there ? not sure if they rot at all when back there , Carl I haven't forgot about the tape , I had to get another vcr mine died I should have then sent out by sat I hope , thanks , also any fittings I should order ahead of time or seals for when the tank goes back in ?

The fuel system "vent" hoses DO rot. I would pull the interior plastic panels before starting the job to get to them and see how hard or rotten they are. You can replace all but one of the hoses with generic "fuel/oil" rated hose. The one that has a 180 degree bend in it is th only one that I would order from Chloe, or a dealer, or MSA, or whomever. Be VERY careful of the rubber boots that seal the hoses as they go through the chassic to under the car. They are not available from the dealer. They reproduction parts for them ARE available from Banzai Motorworks in MD, or if you can find shrink tube of a large enough diameter, you could use that to seal the entry/exit of the hoses to the underside of the car.

Check out THIS WEBSITE for information that will help you. You don't need to order the generic hose, as it is readily available from any well stocked Parts Store.

Oh, and be careful to not damage the O-ring that seals the Fuel Guage sender. They are available , but probably not from a parts store.

[Bambikiller240]

Forgot to attach the diagram I had.:stupid:

[beandip]

killer you can seal # GF-23 port at the tank attach # 24 to the port on the filler neck where 22 is now connected. Connect the long hose that is shown going to the top of the evap tank, attach it to the port of the gastank by the 21 port is . This will eliminate the little evap tank and all that plumbing. then the holes in the floor of the car where all the hoses came through can be sealed off. To seal off the port on the tank use a 3" length of copper water pipe and seal deburr it on the inside and solder a cap on it then seal it with J b weld or POR patch smeared on the tank pipe and tap the copper piece onto the pipe, it is a tight fit but if there are no berrs it will slide on with vary little effort. :classic: by the way POR sells a kit to redo a fuel tank clean it out and seal it from the inside for $49.95 .

[Marty Rogan]

I've got this project coming up on my 71 this spring. I have a leak in the hose GF-23 on the Banzai drawing.

So, it looks like the only hose that I really need to buy is the GF-24. Can this job be done without having to drop the tank? I really don't seem to have any gunk problems with the tank that I know of, so I would rather not drop it if I don't have to.

TIA,

Marty

[beandip]

Marty , you might be able to cap the port of 23 at both ends . Droping the tank is not that tuff. just empty it first. If you have a electric fuel pump , pump it dry. If not there is a drain plug. Mine was half full and I just used the electric pump and connected a power source to the pump and ran the fuel line at the filter to a length of hose and pan in into 1gallon jugs and dumped them into my truck's tank. if you print the diagram I can walk you through the hose and evap tank removal.Gary:classic: