Garage Design

[Bambikiller240]

Carl, that link doesn't seem to work for the other garage thread.

It worked fine when I posted it a year ago.

Through the magic of the internet, some threads have a way of disappearing over time. Oh well, we'll survive without it.

[EScanlon]

Michael:

As far as the dimension on your plan go, I don't know that 6' to the Depth of the garage would do you a whole heck of a lot of good with that stairway there. As the design overview shows, with an external measurement of 30 (your mod) you'd loose at least a foot from the thickness of the walls, add to that the nominal width of 3.5' of the staircase, and an "oops" factor to the walls and back of the car (for parking it so that the garage door doesn't hit it) and you could easily loose another 1.5', which nulifies your additional room. But you would end up with 6' INSIDE more.

Problem with this is that, in my experience 6' is barely enough room to set up tools and start removing / replacing items. But that's my experience. Garden equipment is also another pain, 6' to store these means that there will be an AWFUL amount of shuffling to pull out the lawnmower, or the edger, or the.... you get my drift? Then to have this be a COMMON area between the two, and you'll quickly wish you had done something different.

Although the width seems ok, unfortunately by the time you put in your tool boxes and other paraphernelia that eventually ends up on the wall of any garage, you might find yourself pulling one car out to work on the other.

Also, the height of the work area at 97" is in my opinion, terribly low. Not only will it be impossible to have any overhead storage, but you're not going to be putting a larger vehicle up on stands without careful checking of clearance. Don't forget that the overhead door will likely hang down about 8-10" BELOW the ceiling and you are looking at only 87" in USEABLE height. (item height without being affected by the garage doors)

You were once talking about a rotisserie, not in this garage. How about a lift? You'd be better off using Jack Stands for the available height.

Put your garden equipment outside in one of those inexpensive metal or plastic sheds.

Increase the height in the garage to at least 9' USEABLE if not 10'.

Put the stairway outside, unless you are planning on making it into the "office" part of the garage. Even then, what can you do in the UPSTAIRS office that you would need to have it IN the garage?

Have one of the bays have a pit underneath with metal grate cover. That way you aren't worried about driving into it, but can yet access it quickly. Have Air and Water connections available IN the pit, and put a good size drain in there (even if it has to be a sump pump). This way you can wash the car, or the underneath quickly and easily.

Just my 2¢

Enrique

[Mike]

Michael,

I've had a design business for over 14 years in the local area. An interior dimension of 24' width should be the MINIMUM for a 2 car garage. Adding an extra few feet is trival cost compared to the problems of a small garage.

I would consider a minimum interior of 26'x26' with a ceiling height of at least 9'. If you can afford to go with 10' ceilings, go for it. But, the cost difference is big.

[Bambikiller240]

From my experience (YMMV)

As nice a having a wide yard is, having a wide garage is better (to a point) for 2 reasons:

1. It makes it easier to work on cars inside the garage.

2. Less yard maintenance (mowing, weeding, etc)

When i had a 3 car garage, I found it to be ideal for parking one car (transportation), and doing a major rebuild on another car (room to work on it, parts storage, good size work benches, shelves, etc.)

For me, I'd go for more Width over more Depth almost anyday. More height is also preferable

[mperdue]

Thanks for the advice on the garage plan guys. I found the picture on the internet so it's just a first cut. All of these suggestions are jsut what I need. Regarding the ceiling height, I guess that could be changed fairly easily but I dont' know by how much. One option would be to increase both ceilings but on the upper floor have the roof cut into the ceiling toward the walls. But that would modify the roof and upper ceiling quite a bit I guess. Now that I think about it that really is a very low ceiling. I actually didn't notice that on the drawing. Also putting the stairs outside is a good idea to help with the floor space on both floors. Soemthign to think about. I really doubt I'll have money to do things like a pit or lift, but i can always dream

michael

[chrisdavis1]

Hal,

Just read your about your future plans for a shed, maybe a couple of more suggestions. An aircon is a must, it not only keeps you cool but in winter it stops the condesation in a metal roof building. If you can install a couple of sturdy columns mid-way down the shed and on top of these install a 150mm UB (universal beam) to span across the shed.(Available from Midiala Steel, they deliver) Attach to this a beam trolley to hang your chain block. (Available from Sling rig) This combination will give you travel across the whole width of the shed.

If you intend to have a compressor stick it outside and run the power and air lines thru the walls, it'll leave the noise outside and free up valuable space. I had an old dog kennel over mine to keep the weather off!

Another suggestion, get a electrican to install a seperate breaker box near the door so you don't trip the power to the whole house as well. That can really upset the wife while she's watching her favourite soap.

Also, learn from the experts and get a wheeled tool trolley with the tool box on top and a mid and lower tray when working under a car, nothing worst than searching for tools when lying on your back. You can stick insulation rubber down the legs to protect your Duco.

But most important, a chillout chair and a radio, both let you sit back and mellow out and keeps the wife from hearing all the swearing when things go wrong.

And if exspenses allow, the previous suggestion of Gyprocking the shed not only helps with keeping the dust down, but also adds value to the shed. (if sold later the shed can be used as a rumpus room)

Hope these help!

[dspillman]

Fire protection/insulation should be another consideration with attached garages.

Although proper firewall construction is generally enforced by local building code, I'm sure many of you know of people who have built on to their houses without going thru the local permit process.

In the event of fire, being able to isolate this event from the living area of your home, will provide valuable minutes for response from the local fire department.

FWIW,

David

[TomoHawk]

Are you sure 6m x 7m is big enough? Put your two cars side-by-side, a couple meters between, and measure the length & width with a good amount of room all around. More room than you think- 1.5 - 2m should be about right. You'll be surprised how big things get when you are (like a quarter panel) in a tight area. Especially in front of the car. If you plan any engine work like pulling the engine out, you'll 2m or 3m room in the front. Your idea sounds fine just for storage, but I really think you'll find it very tight if you want to work on your car.

I'm speaking from my experience building houses. I'm fortunate enough to have access to an airplane hangar for work & storage. (20 x 15m)

thx

[GregP]

Just a thought on the height of the garage; Mine is 10 feet from the floor to the bottom of the joists and it's just enough for a storage lift. I can put my GTO on top and the Z on the botton or vice versa. (see my gallery) I didn't plan it that way but the height is just enough for my cars. The lifts are not that expensive, gives me a great work area and lets me store another car (cheaper than adding another bay). Just something to think about because you can't do anything about the height later.

Greg

[hls30.com]

I am getting ready to build a garage, and an addition on our house.

Because of the codes in Savannah, and the positioning of my house on the lot, I have to apply for a variance. I am requesting approval for a 24x36 building, the largest I could reasonably expect to get a variance for.

I am considering what materials to build the garage . Right now Cinder block is looking pretty good, strong enough to support a rail for a chain hoist, and a storage loft. I would veneer the outside with a brickwork wainscoat, and siding above that.

I will put a four post parking lift in, as well as an efficiency bathroom(a watercloset with a drain in the floor and a showerhead), hotwater, and A/C.

I am going to build a scale of the property to show before and after in my presentation for the variance.

Will

plat.bmp

[kenz240z]

Be sure to have a couple of fire extinguishers mounted on the walls. It would be a shame if your Z was damaged or destroyed by fire, not to mention the garage and house! Also, a well stocked first aid kit, for those times when you are removing the rear hatch strut, and the hatch falls & smashes your finger tip (voice of experience). :hurt: Or when you smack your thumb with a hammer when you're using a dolly to smooth out a small dent in a front brake backing plate... :lick:

[GunnerRob]

Has anyone seen this book on garage design? I haven't seen it yet, but it may be something worth looking into.

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=70-1046&Category_Code=TB