I'm busy doing the POR-15 thing and I've got a couple of questions. I've alaready done a few pieces and was wondering if I should wipe down the parts with Marine Clean before applying a second coat?

They are still clean just full of fingerprints and a little dust.

Next question, I have a piece that has been Marine Cleaned and Metal Ready'd, I do not plan on painting it with POR, will this piece rust? Or is the coat of Metal Ready enough to prevent rust?

Thanks guys.

My understanding is that the marine clean removes any oils or other substances that will cause the POR15 to not stick well. I doubt that you'd have any of those problems on top of a fresh coat and the marine clean probably wouldn't help with any dust that got stuck while things were still wet.

I don't think the metal ready by itself has any rust prevention abilities. In fact, I think it's only really needed on clean, smooth metal to help the POR15 stick. It actually etches the metal.

The rust prevention comes from the POR15 paint itself because it bonds to the metal and hardens. This hard layer is a moisture barrier which is why it prevents the rust.

MikeW has hit the nail on the head. Marine Clean nor Metal Ready will prevent rust, you must either paint the part, powder coat it, or apply POR15 to it to protect it.

Thanks Guys! Now back to painting:classic:

Wait a minute!!

If you've allowed the POR to completely dry to the point that there is dust on it, then you'll need to scuff up or re-activate the surface before it will allow more POR to bond to it.

POR sells a primer that will allow you to paint either more POR or some other paint over it AFTER it has dried. You can paint over it shortly after you've painted the ORIGINAL coat of POR but you need to let it set to the "finger-drag" stage.

2¢

Enrique

Isn't a little (like a lot) too cold to be using POR in NY? The data sheets that came with my POR products specified ambient air temps above 75 degrees for the entire cure time.

Enrique, the part has been sitting for a week. I noticed that on the sharp edges the paint is a bit transparent. I want to give it a second coat, will scuffing with 300 grit be good enough?

Carl, you are correct it is freaking cold up here. Makes me wonder why I ever left CA. I moved all the parts to my car down to the basement where it is nice and toasty. Only the shell remains in the garage.

Just remember not to re-assemble it in the basement!! :stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

Originally posted by Ed

Enrique, the part has been sitting for a week. I noticed that on the sharp edges the paint is a bit transparent. I want to give it a second coat, will scuffing with 300 grit be good enough?

Carl, you are correct it is freaking cold up here. Makes me wonder why I ever left CA. I moved all the parts to my car down to the basement where it is nice and toasty. Only the shell remains in the garage.

Hi Ed:

I think Enrique will agree that scuffing with 300 is good enough. At least I hope so, as I used 400 grit to scuff mine for a second coat.

That picture reminds me of Rochester, NY. I spent a MONTH up there about 5 years ago. (actually it was 2 weeks, but it felt like a month) Snow makes for some beautiful scenes, but I'll take CA weather any day.

Good idea to get your parts into a heated area so you can keep working though the winter. Careful of the POR fumes though.

Michael;

I *think* it was specified in the instructions that I got, but I don't have them here at home to confirm. I do know that I did scuff the POR15 on my floorpan when I did the 2nd coat, and again before the Chassis-Coat Black. I don't think I did it "on my own".

POR requires that the next coat of paint be applied

EITHER

After a period of time after the last coat of POR was applied when the last coat is "finger-dry". "Finger-dry" being when you can drag your finger on the surface and feel the drag on your finger, but not when you would still disturb the "skin". This goes for additional coats of POR as well as any other top coat.

OR

After applying their activating primer "Tie-Coat".

OR

After proper preparation of the prior coat. This means sanding or scuffing.

Personally, I opted for number 1. The couple occassions when I had to scuff, I felt it was a laborious chore at 400 grit. I switched to 220 and knocked it off in just a few minutes. If I had to do more sanding I think I would opt for the lower grade even going down to 180, especially if I were to be applying a subsequent layer of POR.

2¢

Enrique

Nice! Now let's get back to painting. Thanks for the info Guys.

one other thing , at least on my car , I am not completely stripping all the origional paint from the engine bay. Some rust repair was done in the battery area and was treated with the por systime . The entire engine bay was mariene cleaned after a sand blast and was also treated with metal ready. POR was applied to any bare metal however the painted surfaces were treated with the chemicals . Now It was recommended that this should be done to the painted surfaces before any por finish was applied. I am now top coating everything with tie-coat primer. in preperation for a complete paint job. The reason given is the mariene clean will leave a residue that the metal ready will nutralise sp the chemical.