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Nut/Bolt Torque Questions & Torque Wrench Oppinions


texasz

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I'm looking at getting a torque wrench and need some information and oppinions to help me make my decision.

First off, what is the torque range that Z cars have (i.e. 10-75 ft/lbs, etc.)? Does this make sense? I want to know what the lowest and highest torques are on a Z car? Also, what range do the majority of these lie in? Maybe that's helps explain what I'm looking for.

Second, I'd like your oppinions on torque wrench styles. I have seen the ones that look like a socket wrench and the ones that look like some kind of "scale" which the guy called a spring torque wrench. Which is better? Which do you prefer and why?

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The majority of the fasteners on a Z will be under 175ft/lbs. So, if you can find one that goes from 10-150 or so, you'll have 90% or more covered.

As far as the "scale" type versus the "click" type, I prefer the click type ratchets as there will be times when the scale is gonna be hard to read, or the wrench is gonna be in an odd angle making it difficult to get a good consistent pull on the wrench to get a proper torque. That is, unless you plan on only torqueing parts when they are on the workbench, then, the scale type is probably going to be more accurate.

Torque wrenches are like any other tool, the less you spend, you'll get a cheap tool. The cheapest torque wrench I'd buy would be Craftsman or a comparable brand... no bargain basement "no-name" brand for something as critical as torque specs especially if you do any engine work.

Personally, I've got a Snap-On torque wrench that is over 20 years old.... my only regret is not getting one that goes as low as 10 ft/lbs when tools were a bit cheaper way back when.....:ermm:

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Agree with 2ManyZs!

2 additional thoughts.

First: The drive size. 3/8 or 1/2. Most 1/2 stuff only goes as low as 20 or 24 tf/lbs. The 3/8 will usually have a shorter handle, which is good for getting in tight spots but less desirable for routine things like lug nuts. You really don't need the leverage for the lug nuts, but having a longer wrench is sure nice for such a common job.

Second: If you get a torque wrench with such a large range, consider having its accuracy checked more often....

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Yup, Snap On is very expensive...if I remember right the one I have is the 1/2 50-250 like this one... and if my memory is correct, I paid nearly 200 for it back in 79.... so, the prices really haven't gone up that much in the last 25 years.....:cross-eye

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?tool=all&item_ID=55264&group_ID=954&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I'm with Mark, if you can buy a good quality 3/8 for the light stuff and one 1/2 inch for the heavier torques, you'll be way ahead of the game... especially if you can get the two of them for around 200 bucks or less.

One caveat with the click type wrenches, Snap On has always said to dial it back to its lowest setting and lock it while storing it, don't go below the lowest setting, nor leave it set at a higher setting. I guess it's due to the springs inside being left under tension that they losing their shape and/or temper over time and you may not get a correct reading.

Like I said, you get what you pay for....think those are high, look in Snap On's catalog and see what the really big ones go for, the ones that go upwards of 600ft/lbs....:cross-eye I used to use one on Cummins engines that would wear your arm out just holding it up, let alone torqueing head bolts at 375ft/lbs....

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Here's a nice little 3/8 Craftsman....

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944594000

And here's one of their most expensive 1/2, they've got another one 30 bucks cheaper without the "high tech" digital readout.. which, if that is the only way to tell if you have the proper torque won't do much good if you can't read it while you are trying to torque the bolt.....

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944597000

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