Completely Clueless

[seerex]

Thats how I feel, ok 72 240z , it run great for a bit then starts to spit and sputter then dies, I can get it warmed up and drive it around the block a few times it seems to be about 20 minutes of running before it quits , rebuilt carbs , new vacume hoses ,new fuel pump and filter, 280zx electronic dizzy , timed correctly , I ran the car from a gas tank<portable> for a bit and it did the same thing died while from an alternate source, so I was think it wasn't the gas tank, and if you wait a few minutes like 15-20 then it will fire up and run run for a few then do the same thing , after it dies when you try and start it again it runs like the points are bad , spitting and almost firing on 4 cylinders , just hoping for new insight to what it might be , running out of stuff to fix other than dropping the tank and having it dipped , any thoughts would be appreciated , Thanks JEff:disappoin

[2ManyZs]

Sounds like either vapor lock, clogged fuel pick up in the tank, or possibly the coil is bad. The coil could be overheating due and the spark is breaking down....or, it could possibly be the ignition module on the dizzy that is going out..... would give you nearly the same symptoms as the coil.

That would be my first three picks for what it could be....

[seerex]

it has a new coil , and it had the same issue before the new ignition, so what causes vapor lock , when it was ran and it did this it was like late 60's early 70 in tempreture, I wasn't sure if the climate would affect that?

[seerex]

also I have removed the water lines for the intake , hhm reading up on the vapor lock , sounds like it but the motor runs so cool and the engine compartment is cool also whe u open the hood, still lost :stupid: don't want to drop the tank but looking that way or might try wrapping th fuel lines

[2ManyZs]

Hmm, forget the coil idea then....

No water lines to the intake, you can pretty much rule out vapor lock... still a very slight possibility, but more than likely it's not vapor locking...

Which leave the clogging fuel tank pickup as the most likely, or the ignition module... when you say a "new" dizzy, do you mean a reman unit or a used one that is "new" to your car?

[seerex]

new to my car , but a used dizzy , can a parts place test them? I am hoping to try everything before dropping the tank , I am gonna try to test the module and maybe wrap the fuel lines , anything but drop the tank , i have 1/2 tank of fuel and tried to drain it with no luck , will let you know Jeff

[Zedrally]

Try replacing the capacitor in the dizzy

[Zedrally]

Woops. just re-read your post and noted 208zx dizzy, guess thats electronic and has no cap.

Sounding like a heat related problem, maybe the black box module is intermitant. You couild buy a can of spray freeze and start cooling different sections of the ignition to fault find.

Good luck!

[seerex]

the black box is righ next to the upper radiator hose , not sure it that would cause an issue, gonna call around to see if I can get it tested first , then go through the wrapping of the fuel lines, does the 72 have the electric fuel pump already pre-wired back there?

[2ManyZs]

Yup, the wiring should be tucked up around the frame rail that runs crosswise in front of the fuel tank. Up near the wiring for the fuel sending unit.

I'd be willing to bet is the module.... if it acts like the later ones do that are inside the dizzy, they will burn out on one side(or circuit) and run off the other, then, due to the increased demand, they overheat and cut out altogther, then, when they cool, it runs fine....

[EScanlon]

I say to double check that dizzy install. But would you answer a couple questions?

Is the tach original? If so, does it operate well?

Has the resistor been removed and what was done with the wires leading to it?

Was the new dizzy tested? Is the mechanical vacuum advance still operating correctly and most importantly SMOOTHLY?

Noticed any change in the brake fluid levels?

Was the dizzy installed when the car was in running order or after?

Just operating for 15 minutes and then dying, with what appears to be a cool down reset. That might also be an indication of flexing or venting of the system. Could the head be warped? Exhaust manifold?

Just my 2¢

Enrique

[seerex]

I am gonna get it tested but my brother and I are leaning towards the tank or vapor lock , mainly because it did the same thing before I switched out the dizzy ,which I was hoping would fix my prob, gonna test the dizzy module and wrap the fuel lines to see if that helps , and go from there, does putting in an electric fuel pump generally help with vapor lock?