seerex Posted January 27, 2004 Author Share #13 Posted January 27, 2004 Tach is original and works correctly, the ballast resistor was removed , I have a header on it , it shows no signs of head warpage , no change in brake levels , the dizzy wasn't tested before installation but this issue was there before the EI was installed , was hoping the electronic ignition would fix this prob :stupid: but that was a big hope :disappoin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted January 27, 2004 Share #14 Posted January 27, 2004 Did you check the vacuum advance on the dizzy? That's a known problem on the Z dizzy. The bearing holder dries up and it won't operate smoothly or properly.I know that is a long shot, but takes only a minute.It sounds as though we can discount the electrical connections on the dizzy. When you mention it dies, have you described HOW it dies? Is it a sudden...click...and then off, or does it sputter to death?What if you accelerated, etc.?E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seerex Posted January 27, 2004 Author Share #15 Posted January 27, 2004 it sputters to death , it sounds just like when the points go bad on a 240z , its spit and sounds liks its running on 4 cylinders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Posted January 27, 2004 Share #16 Posted January 27, 2004 Have you checked the floats in the bowls? It might also be the filters in the bowls are clogged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victor Laury Posted January 27, 2004 Share #17 Posted January 27, 2004 OH! OH! My ZX dizzy did this to me! Check and see if the plug to the dizzy is all the way in! Mine worked it's way out, to the point where it LOOKED like it was connected, but it was JUST making contact, The car would run, but, sputter in the upper RPM'sJust hoping your problem is just that simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seerex Posted January 27, 2004 Author Share #18 Posted January 27, 2004 The floats are ok I just rebuilt the carbs and the plugs on the module are all the way in I checked all the connections when me and friend timed it, really starting to think vapor lock gonna get some insulation for it and then try again , its very irritating because it will run wonderful when i warm it up and check things out or tune the carbs then as I take it out and around the block bam it dies and leaves me stranded , I took it to have the muffler and pipes tightened and spot welded this was the first time it did it , and the shop is lesss than 1/2 mile from my house , very very weird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted January 29, 2004 Share #19 Posted January 29, 2004 If you have access to a bone yard find a RX-7 '79 or '80 and pull the electric fuel pump, there on the driver's side and just in front of the fuel tank. They work vary well and I bought mine for only $15.00 and are a smap to mount and are QUIET. If you are having vapor lock problems this should fix it. I would install an inline filter in between the pump and the tank. Have you changed the fuel filter on the fender in the engine bay? if not do it . These are cheep fixes and are most likely you will do them in the future anyway . On the pump just be sure it is from a carbed engine not injected.Gary:classic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seerex Posted January 29, 2004 Author Share #20 Posted January 29, 2004 Thanks Gary , thought I would have to resort to spending $100 plus on a new one. Jeff:geek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seerex Posted January 30, 2004 Author Share #21 Posted January 30, 2004 Hey by chance would you know if this would be the same unit ?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33555&item=2456885320 thanks Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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