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Today i got something very special, which i found in the USA: A box with "Maintenance of the Datsun 240Z Sports" Service slide films. Let me explain: The Box contains 7 small, numbered plastic cans. Each can has a dia film of colour photos (aka "Slides"). The booklet was Printed in November 1969. So it is from the very beginning of the 240Z. Additionally, there is a booklet which is called "Slide narration" the booklet contains the text to each slide. My understanding is that this was used to train workshop employees. Whoever trained them got a bunch of coloured slides which show how to maintain the 240Z in a workshop, and a book which shows what to mention for each slide. The purpose of the whole kit is also mentioned in the foreword on the first page of the booklet: I have never seen such a box before and think it's quite cool. It's basically a Service manual in colour photos. Some photos appear to be actually the same as in the black-and-white printed Factory Service manual. There are some awesome photos of Nissan works employees working on the cars. I still have to read it all and look through the photos. There are also many graphics and drawings shown, which I have never seen before, and most probably were made specifically for training purposes. I'm already looking for a dia scanner to digitalize them all and if I find time, I will share some of them with you. More updates in the coming days. I have planned some work and there is a sea-freight crate from Japan waiting for me to be picked up.

Today I was able to pick up the long-awaited sea-freight shipment from Japan with some parts I bought as long ago as June last year. I almost forgot what I bought back then, so I was excited to see what i got. The shipment originally included parts which were not for myself, so when the shipment was ready to be loaded on the boat, and then these items popped up for a good price, i just bought them blindly to use the opportunity of almost free shipping. This set is what i think an original Nissan factory adjustable suspension. I still have to check the numbers and all the details. But ut looks like it could be an original nissan set. The other (rear suspension) set looks like a reworked original strut. It has some Nissan stamps on it and obviously got repainted at some point, but it was quite cheap and looked close to factory (not like these modern designs), and it came with multiple boxes of what appears to be original Nissan suspension parts, so I added it to my delivery. The third item was a real win. a set of genuine Mikuni JP PHH44 Carbs. The price was very low, because it looks really rough. But if you studied the details thoroughly, you would see the inside is in pretty damn good shape. All the original parts are included, and the plating is still nice on most parts. And it came with an old school heat shield (not sure if original Nissan) plus a set of two modern style heat shields. Both still unused. The price was a real bargain for what you pay for those these days. And it seems to my untrained eye, that all it needs is cleanup and set of fresh gaskets. but we'll see.. Not from Japan but also delivered today was this used DiaFilm scanner which I bought online recently. So I gave it a try to scan those first original Nissan Maintenance training slides, which I bought recently I still need to figure out that colour correction and other stuff, but the first results are promising. and those slides are really, really cool! My goal is to digitalize them all.

Well I’m back under a new name I guess . Been so long that the site didn’t recognize Madkaw !? Maybe I can get my name back . Meanwhile I will try to document my latest project . 4858 came to me as an urgent -save the car before it gets towed - sale . I was actually at work driving trains . I saw the owner posting that he had to sell this car today , and have it moved or the landlord was going to have it towed off . No title or registration . I had seen the car previously when visiting the owner who also had a non running 280z sitting at an apartment parking lot . It looked pretty straight but it was a quick peek during a visit . Next thing I know it needs a new owner right now and a need to tow it by tomorrow . I had 830$ in my PayPal account that I offered to the owner and promised to arrange towing . I had no idea if I was making a good decision and didn’t know where I’d even put this car . I wasn’t even in town when I bought it . Lucky for me my son was dating a girl who’s dad owned a body shop with a big parking lot and let me store it there until I had a plan . As you can see from the pic my shop wasn’t even finished when I got this car . Thankfully these cars are small . This was 2017 - 1 year before surgery and retirement . to be continued

hah, I'm excited and bummed at the same time. Since I don't know a lot about this car, I was hoping for a good original car to have as a baseline and then slowly work my way up as a learn more about what makes it tick, but I'm pretty decent at problem solving once I have a good working knowledge. All this chat has me really motivated to work on it more, and I really appreciate you guys with your conversation and information. Its been a long time since I have found a good forum to socialize. I'm looking forward to learning more and hopefully I can eventually contribute to the community.

The coil and ballast resistor won't affect just a single cylinder. They will affect all of them equally. If you have a single cylinder problem it won't be fixed with a new coil and resistor.

Thank you all for your comments regarding the suspension and the carb restoration. I have some good ideas now how to proceed. Vapor or dry-ice blasting seems to be a good solution. For the moment, they will remain in the box until i completed some other projects. So a few days ago, I got this delivery of a Nissan Factory adjustable Competition / Sports option / NISMO suspension set, and I finally found the time to do the research. First some Details, I got the two sets (front and rear) from two different sellers in JP, and it's a lucky coincidence that they actually fit / belong together. The Part numbers are: Front: 54303-E4622 & 54302-E4622 (Atsugi) Rear: 55303-E4622 & 55302-E4622 (AMPCO) On all four strut housings, each of the two platforms / adjustment rings are adjustable in height, and none is fixed, like they are on some other kits. I assume that those sets were made by both Atsugi and AMPCO, that's why they have two different brands stamped on them, as most factory suspension for the Z was available from both suppliers at the same time. The suspension set is listed in the January 1978 US sports option catalogue as "Gas variable type" and you can also see the Spring length of 171,5mm (front) and 205.5mm (rear). The same set is also listed in both Marc and September 1978 Japanese sports option catalogues. It is also mentioned that those parts are approved for Group 3 / closed circuit racing and are harder than the factory suspension setup and allows you to lower the car. The older race and rally preparation manual still lists the predecessor with the end numbers -E4621. Please note that the springs remained the same -E4621, even with the new -E4622 suspension. As the older -E4621 is also listed in the March 1976 Competition parts catalogue, my guess is that this kit was introduced around in 1976 or 1977. According to Alan Thomas, the term "gas filled" refers to a system where the "open design" dampers are oil-filled but gas-charged to help stop the oil from foaming during heavy race use. Unfortunately, the previous owner opened the rear suspension and now that gas is gone. See here for more details on the open / cartridge strut inserts comparison: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2017-01-19/240z-the-ultimate-guide-to-factory-suspension-and-options/. According to Alan, there are companies that add a threaded hole to the upper strut section with a valve, so you can add gas again later. But he also mentioned, that the Gas is only really required for heavy race use and it will work without it. Alan was also kind enough to share this photo of the factory gas filling setup / tool. To be honest, i don't really know how it works but it looks nice 🙂 You may have noticed that the front struts came with these additional aluminum spacer disks. According to the above competition manuals (Part no 12), those were used on two-seaters built after 1974 and all four-seater cars, but they were meant to be used on the Rear suspension of the car. It appears that people used them also in the front to gain additional ride height. The competition manual mentions that they are made from aluminum (which mine are) and are 20mm thick. I quickly measured the thickness, and it appears I was lucky to get a free set of probably rare Nissan competition spacers included with my suspension. Remember that mystery adjustable suspension I bought a while ago? I never figured out which car it belongs to. It seems it's not listed in any of the competition / NISMO / Sports option catalogues i found. But now, i finally got to compare them, and it appears that it's definitely not for the 240Z / Fairlady Z. (Left = Mystery, right = 240Z) The length of the strut housing, the length of the thread, the strange upper mounts, and most obviously the brake caliper / brake dust protection shield mounts are completely different. Also, the mystery set got an integrated switch to adjust some settings. Lower = mystery, Upper = 240Z: Since the mystery set is quite incomplete (it only came with one spring, some of the adjustment rings seem not to be original, etc). I think the best I can make out of it is to keep the original adjustment rings from the mystery set as spares for my original set. The smaller, lower adjustment rings have a strange size of 101mm. That shiny one, which seemed to be an aftermarket / homemade item, had a diameter of 100mm, while all original Nissan ones had 101mm. So I'm very happy now to have a complete set, even though from two different manufacturers, but that doesn't really matter, as it's only a small stamp on the strut housing which is different. I will yet have to figure out how I can restore them back to factory, especially the strut inserts might be tricky to find a good solution, but it's definitely doable and definitely worth to bring back this set to former glory. A big hat-tip goes out to Alan for all the Inputs and the nice photos. Your knowledge is of huge value to me, a and I owe you at least a gin-tonic next time we sit at a bar again!

Don't cut the choke cables. Loosen both cable attachment screws at the carbs. Push and pull the choke lever a few times. Is it easy or difficult to operate? If it's difficult, lube the cable and lever mechanism with oil. I pulled the carb end of the cables up, and sprayed WD 40 or CRC lube into the cable sheath ends and let gravity pull the lube down along the length of the cables. Then I looked to see if both nozzles were all the way up, pushed the choke knob forward and connected the cables to the carbs. Good luck and tell your Dad not to worry about the Canal.

I got it figured out . I found my old email address and was able to sign in as Madkaw

Wow. Glad you're still around, but what a chain of events! Hope it's greener pastures from here!!

Asleep. Seriously, life has been a bit crazy. Mom was diagnosed with late stage Alzheimer's so I have guardianship and conservatorship duties, then Covid hit. Then the timing belt broke in my 2005 Legacy Goon. Then Mrs. Racer 2.0 fell and broke her ankle. Then she fell and broke her wrist. Then our oldest grandson was killed in a head on collision a couple years ago last November. He was in the Army, stationed at Ft. Bragg, the 82nd Airborne. He was out with some buddies on a Sunday evening and some guy got on the freeway going the wrong way. Killed the other guy, my grandson, a kid and girl in the backseat of his car and the kid riding shotgun lived with serious injuries. No alcohol or drugs were found in any of the victims. As if life wasn't dealing me enough bad cards, Mrs. Racer 2.0 passed away last February. I came home and found her on the couch, looking like she had laid down to rest. She died in her sleep, the coroner said atherosclerotic cardiovascular disease (hardening of the arteries) with WHO Class 2 obesity as a contributing factor. Tuesday after Memorial Day I came home from work to find a water line had broken in the wet bar upstairs. Half my house was flooded. The contractor just finished up last week and now I am moving back into the house that I built 16 years ago. Last October I had my right hip replaced. The left one was done 13 years ago, and it took that long to get the right one as worn out. I did get up to Alaska for the holidays. Saw psychedelic skies and shot a bunch of pretty cool guns. So yeah, here we are. Regarding an engine, Ollie is the guy to ask. In fact I need to ring him up myself, I'm considering using one of the non EGR fuel injection manifolds on a build I'm planning. Stay tuned.

got me some shiny new tools, looking forward to some warmer weather!

In the recent days, I picked up various items again, which I bought recently for my project: The elephant in the room is obviously the all original KM1520-ZC AM / FM Radio. It's a bit rough around the edges. Just perfect for a restoration. In case you don't know. Restoring old audio systems, including Car HIFI, from that era was my profession for many years, so this one will be fun for me to get nostalgic. It's said to be in working condition and complete. Let's see. Then i also got an original June 1972 Datsun Switzerland dealer price list. I had it scanned, and you can download it HERE among many other price-lists from that era. One delivery also included an original NOS 240Z rear drum brake cylinder. I had several from the other side, but this side was somehow always missing. Now I have a complete pair: I also aqcuired a bunch of Japanese "Car graphic" Magazines from the early 70ies, when the Z was new, and those issues include a few nice details of the Fairlady Z and Z432 development. On the right side, you also see a Nismo accessory catalogue and sticker from the 10th anniversary, which I will put next to my 10th anniversary steering wheel and shift knob: And then i got something cool, which is a bunch of photos and two CD's full of Photos from a nice bloke. Some photos will be very cool, and I'll post the story about a certain barn full of S30's from Switzerland in the coming weeks on this blog. If you read the story about Aerotechnik. A Swiss Datsun parts dealer that quickly became one of the countries biggest wholeseller for wheels and exhausts, you might remember this photo. Now i even haven an original of that Schaffhausen-plated (SH) red 300ZX. Read more about that story here I have some more cool deliveries pending, so stay tuned for some nice stories and parts here. and oh, i also had some progress on the Car itself, which i'm going to show you soon! Today I was finally able to close another big gap in my documentation archive. The Nissan L-Drive and R-Drive Parts catalogues: There are various versions of the Parts catalogues, the L-Drive (Publication No. C-0010L) is for the Left-Hand-drive cars and the R-Drive (Publication No. C-0010R) is for RHD cars. Totally, I have no three versions. From what I understand, the dealerships once got the original Binder in the early years and then constantly got updated sheets to add or replace. That's why you can see varying years and models on the back of the binder. The Left one and center one are new, the R-Drive on the right is one I bought from the UK a while ago. I have seen other versions, which are probably even rarer, but for me, this will do. So what is it exactly? Well, it's basically the early print versions of the parts catalogue, which were later also available as Microfiches, in smaller book form, or as digital version on Nissan FAST / E-FAST disks, etc. Today these are all available online. But in my opinion this is still the best readable version due to its size and quality of print, and the most detailed version of them all. The cool thing is that I now have one of the versions with the original seat leather samples on it, which only was in specific versions of the manual, and is something quite cool, if you ask me. So, again another year-long search for something very specific comes to an end, and I'm happy to close that task too. These books will again help me to clarify some details and to do my research on the various topics. Also, the pages are easier to scan to show on different topics here on the website, since the pages can be removed individually from the binder. So sooner or later, all you readers will benefit from this, too :-). Now on to search the even rarer stuff...

Don't forget to grind back the shifter base above the pivot (fore and aft), or it will hit the casing - at least my 75 shifter in the 280ZX 5 speed did

There's no fuel in the cabin so if that's where you smell it it's gotta be the weatherstripping. Easy way is to extend the tailpipe, maybe turn it down too. The rear hatch is usually the suspect. If it's under the hood, most likely the cold start injector if everything else is right. You can make a new gasket out of a cereal box or gasket material. I used Fruity Pebbles or Coco Puffs, can't remember? Stay away from bran.

Awesome. I love it when a plan comes together. If you get energetic and want easier trimming of the gauge position, use a 200 Ohm pot instead of 2K. It would be less sensitive and easier to adjust.

And let me guess... You've never seen Aircraft paint remover either:

Hi Site, Good news i found a 69 year old Camaro carburetor mechanic and competition racer. He drove the car and determined there is lack of fuel when accelerating at low rpms. Car shouldnt hesitate when releasing the gas pedal. He also noticed spark plug in cyl one is not burning correctly and lot of fuel on cylinder 4. Unfortunately he is living in Tampa and will not be back until 2 to 4 months so he can take care of the car. He wants to deal with these issues and do a leak down test before taking the head out.

Being lazy and not having read the entire thread, I have a suggestion that perhaps has not been tried yet. Replace the spade connector on the end of the BY wire at the starter. It may “look” just fine, you may have even cleaned and tightened the metal contact. I had one where there was only one strand of wire still crimped under the terminal tangs and that strand (like the rest) were filthy and corroded. No way to get enough current flowing to engage the starter solenoid. Snip, strip, scrape any corrostion off of the bare wire, crimp a new 1/4 FM terminal, stuff it on the starter terminal.

My '77 had an N47 head and a '79 ZX motor I bought had an N47 head. I think it's a 1979 280ZX motor. The cut head temp sensor, the fuel rail fan are what I'm judging by. That xenon page has some mistakes on the head dates. The '75 and '76 came with an N42 block and an N42 cylinder head, great running combo from the factory. I'm pretty sure the first ZX, the 1979, came with an N42 block? You will play hell finding an N42 cylinder head. That's the one before they did the EGR N47 head. N42s are a lot simpler and cleaner looking. You can pull the motor and transmission together and start working on rebuilding the motor. When you get frustrated or run out of parts/money then go to the interior and body work. 2 years is a good timeline or at least that's what it took me by myself. Have fun, you seem to have a good mindset going to work on your Z. Know when to walk away for a few days is the lesson I learned. https://datsunzgarage.us/heads/

The stud pattern on the jenvey 40 and 45 itbs is the same as the 40/45 dcoe carbs. Thats the point. The itbs come in 3 lengths I think, and I suppose it is possible that the longest ones might be too long. You should be able to measure it up on your car.

It already has front wheel discs. Download the FSM, and wiring diagram, and Owners Manual before you get too far along. And get a multimeter, it will help a lot with the EFI system. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/ There's also a thread on the forum somewhere about things to do before trying to resurrect an old Z that's been sitting. You can avoid some damage and increase the odds of a good startup. I'd read up on that before even trying to turn the engine over. Welcome to the Z world.

You bought vales and guides already, as seen in the pictures you posted. You replaced the Far 311 cam with a street able Schneider. What all was changed with the new cam? There is a lot more to that than just swapping out the actual cam. With your new parts already bought and paid for just go ahead and take the leap. Have the head rebuilt, new valve seals that will not interfere with your cam's lobes. Make sure all valves are cut the same and seating properly. Don't get in hurry finding a cylinder head rebuilder. Find one that is recommended by mechanics or even better some machine shops. You've got time now moving to Spain and getting settled. Make a plan and budget. Don't waste time or money.

I think we have been through this before several times. The cylinder head needs to get pulled to see what the deal is with #4.

Indeed. I've been on a steady decline in quality since 2002... The E8700 Console-mounted Fog Lamp Switch was a rarely-specced showroom option part in Japan, and only available for a relatively short period (roughly early October 1971 through late August 1973) after which the design changed completely. I see the part number quoted also on the relevant R-DRIVE Export factory parts list, but the only illustration is the (equally rare) earlier type dash-mounted E4100 NILES two pin 'flip' type fog switch. There is not even a drawing of the E8700 type. The March 1974 update of the R-DRIVE Export factory parts list gives the following part numbers: *25370-E4100 COMP-SWITCH FOG LAMP - up to 08-71 (Note: this is the dash-mounted NILES two pin 'flip' switch). *25370-E8700 COMP-SWITCH FOG LAMP - from 09-71 (Note: This is the console-mounted Droid you are looking for...). *25370-E8701 COMP-SWITCH FOG LAMP - from 07-73 up to 08-73 (Note: The fog lamp switch that burns twice as bright burns out a month later...). *25370-N3400 COMP-SWITCH FOG LAMP - from 08-73 (Note: This is not the Droid you are looking for...). To be honest I've never really sought out an E8700 type switch as I never needed one, but it seems that they are rather elusive. I've got several of the equally elusive E4100 type but I don't recall even seeing a photo of the E8700 type in Japanese market factory literature. The only pictorial reference I have is the factory parts list drawing I posted in the 2002 thread. So, can't help, not won't help.

12.9 should be plenty! Even 12.5 should spin it.

It's about as difficult as changing out the spark plugs. Loosen the compressor on the bracket, push it towards the motor. Loosen the alternator on the bracket, push it towards the motor. Take the belts off. Take the belts to an auto parts store. They will measure the length and get you replacements. Put the new ones on and use something like a broom handle to pry the alternator and a/c compressor away from from the motor to tighten. I get them tight enough that they will twist about a quarter turn. Check the tightness after you've driven your car some. It's easy.

Nice Nils! These are type 4 PHH 44's, there are different types, and gaskets differ a little. I restore and rebuild these in my spare time, so by the time you replace all the gaskets, its essentially a strip, clean and rebuild. The pump diaphram at the bottom of the carb is where most of the crud sits, and the diaphram is worth changing. I find them a nice project to do. Here is my before and after;

I think she told me $120/rack. Not sure how big one rack is, but all that fit on one rack. I am sure chemical regulations are costly.

Good job……me and my son Brandon did the same thing with our favorite IPA. 🥳

This worked great for me. Both with loosening, and then re-tightening with engine out of the car: I'm not sure if all the flywheels had these holes along the outside edge, but I used a tight fitting punch (8mm or 5/16) in the hole and then blocked rotation with a bolt threaded into the block: This may be old hat to you engine guys, but it worked great.

The Zinc parts came back from plating and look great. Pictures are below. Also shown are a couple examples of the shrink sleeve used to protect the plastic carb linkage ends and sealing of the cavities of the anti-backfire valve. The oil pan had a few dings in it so I used a little bondo to smooth those out prior to paint. Front grill was a little tweaked, to I disassembled that, straightened the pieces, then re-assembled and painted.

Well, I identified the problem causing the relay to click. I had one of the dash harness connectors to the fuse box on upside down, and since I didn’t check it against what I plugged it into, all those wires were going to the wrong things. I figured this out after finding no continuity from Steve’s diagnosis process above and trying to figure out where the red ground wire might connect to power. I pulled the connector and fixed that. The relay no longer clicks when the battery is connected, so ON TO THE NEXT!

Changing your name on this topic/site isn't gonna help "Johnny" .. time after time people helped you and said the engine needs to come apart and then you ask questions in a different way but essentually the same questions.. the engine isn't gonna fix itself.. I don't want to gravel/irritate you.. but you need to listen to the advice! I'm not going to waste more time on this..

A little update on my 3.1L! This motor was actually finished 3 years ago, but was tragically in a shop fire. Luckily the engine wasn’t too close to the flames and it was spared. It’s getting close to finished and then going into my 1971 240z! My 3.1L 10.2:1 compression ratio 88.5mm bore. N42 block. Sonic tested. LD crank by marine crankshaft. Crank Off-set grind to 84.6 stroke. Finish rod journals @ 1.8889" Thrust Finish 1.27”R & R plugs with threaded plugs Dynamic Balance Ion-Plasma nitride, straighten & micro-Micro polish all journals E31 head. Port work by Andrew Kazanis Dsi valves, titanium retainers. Isky springs. Bonk cam. I got it in NOS or near new condition prior to porting. Rebello JE Eagle pistons and toyota rods 221 CFM flow at .45-.5 lift. With rougAndrew Kazanis sizes. Mine is 88.5x88.5x.25x3.14159x 84.6x6 /1000 = 3122cc Thank you Andrew Kazanis for all the help and your magically porting work.

So close! I have three steps left before I can wrap these dash harnesses and put them into the dashboard for real: installing and wiring my NLR-132 headlight relay, installing and wiring the AILD-1 PWM, and testing everything. I can test everything except the dash lights and headlights now, so I’ll probably wait on the relay and PWM because I’m not certain where I want to put them yet. This was not crazy hard, but it did take four or five times as long as I estimated, plus my body is killing me from laying on the seat rail braces. These cars are not spacious. I kept up my system of labeling the terminals with what’s on the opposite end of the wire, so if I do discover any issues they should be fairly easy to diagnose. I checked all of these wires so many times I can’t imagine I have any errors, but who knows. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I’m having some trouble with terminals staying in the colored connectors I scavenged from the old harness. I guess I mangled them too much getting them apart. I’ll see if I can fix that when I pull the harnesses to wrap them. For a minute I couldn’t figure out where to mount the buzzer. I ended up using a threaded hole on the left side of the dashboard frame. The buzzer looks like it’s supposed to be there, based on the way the bracket is bent, but I have no idea if it’s correct. I think those holes were fire the heater or stereo originally. Whatever. It works.

1 last horn U7, 7/71: Looks untouched by how the thin paper gaskets were intact.

Added a resource to this complication thread. Another source for the stake u-joints

I'm glad you figured it out. You look like your old self again.

Thanks man. I remain optimistic. Everyday I wake up on the green side of the grass is a good one.

Progress continues on S/N 00042. A number of items are out at vendors and should be returning all before the end of the month. Undercarriage parts will be media blasted tomorrow and then sent to the paint shop. Plated parts are finishing up and should ship either tomorrow (1/17/2025) or Monday. Engine block and head are at the machine shop and should be here before the end of the month. The body will be sent to the metal repair guy before the end of the month, so lots going on over the next couple weeks. At this point, I am most eager to get started on the engine, so I will monitor that one closely. I already have the engine gasket kit and am cleaning up parts so I am ready to go. In the mean time, I have been cleaning and painting some of the different parts. Below are some pics of the finished items. The motor mount brackets were pretty interesting as they were all of three colors. The base color is black. Over that is a light blue overspray. on top of that is a dark blue overspray. I am pretty sure this is all factory, so it must have been an interesting process for these early cars. Since the base color was black for the mounts I went with that,as the blues appeared to just be overspray. I do not think that I will try to replicate the overspray. I cleaned and painted the rear half shafts in the original black. The rubber boots were in good condition so I just cleaned them up. I kept the overspray on the original metal ties intact, although I was tempted to clean that off just to get a little color in the assembly. The half-shafts of S/N 2614 are shown below for color reference.

I just received my door seal kit from S30 World and it's even better than I was expecting. Great attention to detail. I will be using these to replace the aftermarket one piece seals that are on my early 1970, #957. Hopefully this will make it a little easier to close the doors. Here are a few pics for a visual comparison, of the new S30 product and the 55 year old seals removed from my July/70 car, #6521. S30 World seals on the left and my old stuff on the right.

For the time that you're spending on the problem it might be worth the length of hose and the clamps to get that real-time data. Borrowed this from a Corvette forum.

BINGO!! Turns out, I had the wires plugged into the wrong sides of the diode (backwards). I switched them and now the car reads 14.37 volts at idle. Thank you both for pointing me in the right direction! Yeehaw!

I bought some of this yellow paint to see if it might be close to the stuff that was used in the original assembly line. It was inexpensive, so I thought I would have a look. Lighting is a big factor in the look from a picture. But here is an original fastener with paint that is in pretty good condition, along with a fastener that I dipped into the new paint. My skin color is darker in the picture of the new paint, which tells me the lighting is darker. I also took a picture in another room (kitchen) with different lighting. It looks reasonably close in the pictures, but I think is a bit "lighter" than the original paint.

Welcome back @Mike Can madkaw's user name be revived??

No, I just put everything in a zip lock bag as I know the boxes will get beat up in shipping. Also, I do not overpack the bags, but everything fits comfortably, bags are cheap. I also add a little packing material around the bags. Can't say that I have had any parts lost. Even the small lock washers do fine and are returned nicely plated. Only issue I ever had was a few leaky parts that dripped onto the batch and stained some of the plating on return shipping. (Smog check valve and distributor vacuum chamber are examples of parts that need to be plugged)

@240dkw I sent an email to Ztherapy last night and they responded this morning. Hold off on looking for now - don't want to trouble you. They have one for a good price. Thank you for the response.

Been working on the LS-into-91 Volvo 740 Pickup. Prep work involved beefing up the rear subframe & engine crossmember. I decided to make a double-wall version of the rear subframe welded two together Then added cross bracing when that was all done Added outliers, so I also doubled the rear brace bushings After that was done, I worked on the front crossmember reinforcements Tie plates were added by Volvo for later models that had the whiteblock L6. The right side bracket was still available, so I bought that & used it to make the left side reinforced a bunch of unfinished seam welds added some additional bracing where they are known to crack on V8 installs additional boxing on the top side decent pan clearance, I added 1.125" mount spacers (intended for V8 into Datsun Z swaps) converting to 6AN lines for the PS rack to pump More work to go before I get to pull the stock drivetrain & start the test fitting.

I measured my nozzle drop and got .370" for the back carburetor and .365" for the front. So, it seems I did a bit of exaggeration there! I tweaked the #1 bar a bit on the back carburetor and was able to achieve smooth up and down movement of the nozzle. I tested its movement repeatedly. That one is good! I am in the middle of doing the same thing to the bar on the front carburetor to get the front nozzle to stop sticking. Evidently, these bars have to be in quite a particular shape, or they allow a sideways force on the nozzle that can cause it to stick when it is extended out of the nozzle sleeve.

Turned out decent, really struggling with trash/ debris/ maybe sand in my shop. Need to partition off a clean area to spray….. 2446 will never win any awards, but she got that deep green look glowing strong!!!