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Got tires this week

It's quite hard to pin a current market value on a 432 or 432-R, but - in Japan, where the majority of them reside - they can change hands privately for stratospheric (in S30-series Z terms) figures. The 432-R is often valued at three or four times that of a 'normal' 432, but there's a limited data reference as so few Rs are sold 'on the record' and in public view. Japanese buyers and sellers can be very secretive (most individuals are circumspect with regard to their personal financial circumstances) and quite a few of these cars have been owned by people who are now of senior age, coming to the end of their safe driving life. That's a situation that can be taken advantage of by younger family members, friends and/or people in the old car business. @kats can tell you of a case late last year where a genuine 432-R, owned by an elderly gentleman, was bought at an unusually low price (by somebody in the right place at the right time) and was very soon being 'flipped' at a three or four times multiplied figure. Sad that the elderly vendor didn't get a more honest buyer. I feel that it's important for these cars to go to good homes, which I guess is not always about money. And that's something we can also say about this 'PS30-00218' for sale via Takeey's. It may well have a cloud over its authenticity (which all hinges on whether it's chassis number has been altered or not...) but it exists, is an attractive car in it's own right - nothing wrong with a 432-R 'tribute'/'replica' - and as long as any new owner knows exactly what they are buying, and the price paid reflects that, then OK. It just needs to find that 'Mr Right'.

Finally got my car back from a long repair and restoration cycle. Paul Krimmer (Z Car Guy Cinci) did a fantastic job of restoring my 72 240Z back to "Better than New"condition. I purchased my 72 back in 2012, and it came equipped with a 2.7L motor, Schneider Stage 2 cam, headers, 5 speed and limited slip rear end. Last June I was taking pictures at the Mid Ohio Race Track, and my car was hit from behind during a noontime parade lap! Other guys insurance paid for the damage. When the car is the shop during the winter months, more things I wanted fixed for a long time finally got done. The original riveted-on side trim strips were deleted, entire car including air dam and engine bay completed a glass-out respray in "Arrest Me Red". Looking forward to the driving season - lots of activities coming up.

The memory is swirling with details of tow hooks, but I would like to point out that from the point of view of originality, the presence of tow hooks is optional. First remember they are tie down hooks, not tow hooks. They secured the car to the boat they came over on. Memory of past discussions suggests there was a Nissan order to dealers that they be removed before selling. Correct me if that’s wrong. Seems from the many Z’s I’ve seen, most still had “some” so I suspect many dealers didn’t bother. So it would appear to be “Correct” to have them or not on a restoration. If you could somehow know if they were there or not on delivery day for your particular car, then you would know to either include them or not to make it “right”. Then the issue of what particular style was installed at each of the four spots comes up, but I think that was covered in some other thread. I made a coat hook rack for the back of my shop door out of some of the ones I have laying around. Probably sacrilege to some. Too bad.

Hi Steve, This is a well-known - perhaps I should say somewhat 'notorious' - car with some er, baggage... I have it down in my notes as having a "re-stamped" (re-engraved?) firewall chassis number, and there has been a fair amount of gossip about the car between interested parties over a few years. I have photos of the car from when it was for sale in 2018, so it's been knocking around ostensibly 'For Sale' for a good few years now. The website you link to is actually for a somewhat parasitic forwarding company, hoping to get in on the sale of the car and the shipping/handling thereof and taking a margin from both seller and buyer. Best to look at the car with the actual seller, well-known Japanese old car vendor 'Takeey's' based in Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka prefecture. Here's their website: http://takeeys.com/index.html ...and here's the car for sale (price = 'ASK'...) on the Takeeys official site: https://www.goo-net.com/php/search/spread.php?baitai=0600834&area_cd=15&goo_car_id=700060083430240917001&ef_flag=1 Chassis number 'PS30-00218' is a genuine chassis number, but - more specifically - it is a known and official chassis number for a PS30-SB 'Fairlady Z432-R', the very limited production super lightweight variant of the 432. Genuine 432-Rs are on another level in terms of rarity, desirability and market value in comparison with 'ordinary' 432s. However, there are question marks around this particular car. You will note that Takeey's are not claiming it in writing as being a genuine 432-R. They are selling it as a '432', which it almost certainly is. The question is whether a standard 432 has been 'sexed up' with many 432-R specific parts and details and has - nefariously - assumed the identity of 'PS30-00218' which was a genuine 432-R. We can spot many 432-R specific details and parts on the car (console delete, trans tunnel-mounted ignition switch, plain vinyl trans tunnel cover, spare wheel well delete, 100 litre tank, etc etc etc - there are too many to list) but only a genuine 432-R would have the super lightweight type bodyshell with its thinner gauge sheetmetal. Almost impossible to fake that. @kats will be able to tell you much more than me, and perhaps a little more diplomatically!

Re-listed Hitachi SU carburetors About $590 USD or $850 CAD https://www.ebay.ca/itm/375833935475

S30.worldS30.world - S30.world – test driveS30.world – test driveWorth a read.

Keep it as it is

There's nothing to manage. It's just a single thread in which to talk about Z's that are being sold or have sold. As opposed to multiple individual threads. If you read back through the posts you'll see that the concept works. Even Mike has commented here.

Here’s what popped up on a “memory “ page of me driving it from Dallas to Chicago. Good times.

I would "vacuum " that out with an electric fuel pump. Then analyze what you take out for a diagnosis...

I have two 2400 valve covers, one from the original motor and one that the owner sent. I was not happy with the painted valve cover, although it looks pretty, as it would get dinged by the ZCON judges as not the original finish. Also, it's not the original finish. So, I just decided to clean up the original valve cover. I am much happier with that. Looks much better. Pics below

Some of you have dealt with this little annoyance, and I have found a perfect solution. When doing a full restoration, or at least the full interior, you often have to replace the head liner and the A pillar vinyl, as well as the vinyl trim that goes across the top of the windshield where the sun visors and rear view mirror mount. While I won’t discuss the pain of installing these items, what I have found is even more of a pain, is finding the nine M5 threaded holes to put the visor and mirror mount back in. All that fresh painfully installed lovely vinyl, and 9 secret little holes you have to find to poke holes through. Get out the pokey thingy of your choice and start poking until you find them. If you put some kind of thin foam behind the vinyl like you’re supposed to, those damn holes are just a nightmare to sleuth out. Not any more! I put some nice long M5 grub screws in the nine threaded holes, THEN do the upholstery. Then finding the tips of them sticking out is easy! Make little “X” slits to expose them, grab your M3 hex key, back them out and screw in the visor and mirror mounts. Five minutes each! Easy peasy.

I'm the only madman in the Netherlands that drives a datsun 240z on wintertires in the Netherlands hahaha!! Get LOTS of thumps up 👍 with these cars especially in the winter! (I did/do this just because putting in a new floor in a 240z is much easyer than in a 300zxtt! 😁) My 240z is ready to take another restore now after 25 years of (Mis)use.. haha.. The dealer wants to buy that one also haha.. we'll it's for sale as i'm to ill to take up another restore. I'm left with the almost ready 280zx restore..pfff.. (May buy me another cabriolet or something in the future.. who knows..)

Joe heatervalves.net was a life saver. Shipped the valve back within 24-hours of getting the new seal in and water pressure tested. Ran the car idle 10 mins and all seems nice and holding. U hose was: Dayco 86050 the exact fit with some trimming.

Update to this thread is that Chris at s30 has responded. He said I should have received the tank long ago, checking the warehouse to se what happened. shipment is insured. Fingers crossed.

To SteveJ , unfortunately i have to agree with your language joke as being right on. There is another one about two Americans visiting England and having trouble understanding the locals. They finally said to the person "we don't speak English, we're from America". And so it goes.

You can reach out to them on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/s30.world

The one above goes down inside the speedo cog housing, the O-ring goes on the outside where it slides up into the transmission from what I remember. espirist shows it here: I found a picture of the O-ring I'm thinking about. Uploading Attachment...

Maybe this seal? https://www.thezstore.com/product/3008/factory-speedometer-pinion-o-ring-small-70-86-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx There is also an O ring that I think goes in the cable end. IIRC

I needed to tweak my hold down bracket a bit but this Noco NLX24 look and fits great! Yes, it’s a Group 24 but the top is 12mm smaller in both directions so it needs shimming. I bought a sheet of 6mm thick rubber and sliced shims for the top, which I held in place with some RTV. I cut the leftovers into pads to raise the battery 6mm so the bracket is horizontal. Fits like it’s supposed to be there. I just need to get the ground strap back on, which will be a cinch since this has four posts. Good stuff.

So a quick update... I finally got the doors seals last week. They have to be signed for and nobody was ever around and I was having a hard time getting a re-delivery lined up. Anyway, I got them and put them on last Saturday. They are really nice!!! I had the precision seals and you really have to slam the doors. The new seals are nice and very soft. The door closes really nicely now. You do have to be careful when tucking the seal into the windlace that you use a dull enough tool as they will rip if you're not careful. Also one of my upper corners is coming apart but I will reglue it. It is much easier to do if you have some help. The seal wants to come back out of the windlace if you don't have someone there to hold it for you. Overall, really pleased and well worth the money!

I did something similar on mine a few months ago but with a blow torch: Heat till red hot around the manifold, cool the threads a little with pb blaster, little pressure on the threads with wrench. Repeat for about two hours until all were loose. It caught fire several times, but I did this outside surrounded by snow.

The exhaust manifold will be a bit of a project. I don't beleive that the air galley will be salvagable as the attach fittings are pretty rusted onto the manifold. I will soak these in rust penetrant for a couple more days, but most likely I will need to cut off the air galley, remove the fittings and re-tap the holes.

The body is now at the weld shop and the replacement panels from KF Vintage have arrived. The welder, Larry, said the panels were very good quality and nice thickness. Panels are now being installed. Pics are below. Work is being done by L&L Restomods. https://www.llrestomods.com/

Maybe the crap in the tank is too large to pass through the filter screen in the tank. It just blocks it up instead

Rarely do I see old z-cars in Idaho. let alone during snow. This was east of CdA on I90.

Here's my interim solution. Apparently, 240Z was simply the chrome switch. 280Z added the big insulation grommet.

Well I decided to pick a new header. I wanted the header to give my room on port 5-6 for my lower mounted actuator and also get out of the way of the throttle bodies a little more. I decided on the Kameari drag 45mm. Which I purchased through Binh Nguyen. The header design gives me plenty of clearance for my actuator and throttles! Pretty darn happy with it overall. Prior I had a now moth balled Fujitsubo header. Which had a terrible runner design for a lower actuator.

https://www.totalzparts.com/product/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-engine-cooling-fan-clutch-new-made-in-japan/?srsltid=AfmBOorqLoh_Q70OaVbY33ZwcmzCbYfHbiDxb_eAgjnf4Rlx4LtaLxcpWrM

Everything look nice and tight. Appreciate everyone’s input guys. Waiting for the clock to arrive so that dash can go in.

Good find. I’ve found if you have a good relationship with a parts store. I have had great luck walking in with the original, find something on there hose rack that has similar bends and adjust as needed.

Ok so here it is Gates 19044. It’s a longer hose that can be cut to the right fit but is a 99% match. I can throw my old ones safely 😊

Just saw a '71(?) on CNN

Umm.. this was an ad from 2018. Maybe they sold after 7 years... dunno for sure. ;) Unless, are you a spambot?

I've collected some parts again recently, so it's time for another update full of random bits and pieces. Reader RIP260Z pointed out that the Pump diaphragm is missing in the American Mikuni rebuilt kits which I got recently, but are included in the Japanese Mikuni rebuild kits. Luckily, I was able to find a guy in Japan who sells all OEM Mikuni / Solex parts individually, and I ordered plenty of parts, that were still available - Including the Pump diaphragms and many wear and tear parts like springs, etc. Speaking of Mikunis, I also found an original Japanese Solex NPHH44 service manual. I had a Copy of it before, but this is an original one, which is very nice to have :-) And on the left side, you can see an original German PHH44 manual. This is a completely different manual for the original Solex PHH44. Those were used on the NSU TT and TTS and the BMW E10, 2002, etc. if I'm not mistaken. The manual is quite useless, as the NPHH44 Mikunis / Solex don't have too much in common with these, but nevertheless it's cool to have a reference to the "original" design of these, with some German explanations. The explanation of the working principle in the German book is really cool, with all those hand-drawn graphics. The biggest part of the various deliveries was this Center console: It's made by VintageDashes in the USA. After he explained how he made it and so on, I decided to give it a try, despite the big price-tag. So far it looks very promising, but i have to check the details. I will compare it with the OEM console and the one from ResurrectedClassics which i also have in stock, soon. I found another Datsun Switzerland pricelist. This time from February 1978. As usual, I scanned them all in high-resolution, and you can download my whole collection here, for free. And then another useless, but cool part. The Eaglemoss-spareparts box. Which belongs to the kit, but sadly was missing in my set. If you want to know more about the eaglemoss 1/18 Fairlady set --> read here, and here. Aside from 2 empty binders (for the magainzes) and the original tool-pouch, my set is pretty much complete, now :-) I already have the next bunch of parts waiting in Japan, a delivery from Nissan directly, and I've worked a bit on the car too and did some research, so you can expect more updates again in a few days. Oh, and I also got a free heavy-duty grinder for my workshop, and cleaned / restored it a bit this week. If this is your kind of thing, then read the full story here.

Hi Mike, Yes i think that's why my car is one of the very few that's worth the money as it was for 5 years at the Nissan dealer. A CEO has had it the first 6 mnds and then the director of a big nissandealer in Breda the Netherlands. then it was sold with some new tires to a collector who cept it under a cover for 10 years The dealer drove it for 51000 km and the collector for 10000km so i bought it in 2007 (Time flies!!) with only 61000km on the clock! Now after 18 years it's around 89500km. I got all the paperwork also from the suspensions of the roadtax in ALL the winters after it came out of the nissan showroom !!! (Driving without roadtax in the Netherlands will get you a giant FINE (about 3 times a years cost of roadtax so about 3000-3500 euro!) so i never did that.) I think it's a gem that can become ALOT more worth ... Remember this car has never seen winter as on www.rdw.nl and with the licenseplate number you can see a damn long list of all the years it was suspended. It did drive EVERY summer for a 4-8 monds period. And i let it run every 4-6 weeks in wintertime to save the airco system.. The airco worked till the car was 31 years old! Kudos to Nissan for the excellent cars they made in the '90's! I got the stuff (and equipment) to fill the airco as it is not leaky but i haven't done it yet as now i only need to start the car every 2 monds or so.. This car still has it's original 1992 exhaust and always been under it. (I drilled 2 water outlets in the rear dampers that keeps them dry and helps A LOT! IF ANYONE WANTS THIS CAR.. NOW IS THE TIME AS NEXT WEEK THE DEALER IS COMING TO SEE IT.. (He's a busy guy and postponed it) The car does not have to go but anyone that wants to investigate can mail me at martzedcars@outlook.com (or send me a PM!) FUNNY: The car only ones left me aside of the road.. i looked up on google and it said: IF your nissan 300zx stops working it can be the powertransister for what NISSAN had a special new part that costs nothing.. I was ofcourse to late to get it free, but i found very easely a new type of powertransistor unit that's now in the car. A good friend of mine repaired the old one (i tested it and it's good!) and it's now under the seat as a backup! Haha.. Thanks!

I've got (as some of you know) one in silver, next week the nissan dealer comes from the other side of our country (thats a small 250km haha) to look at it and buy it back haha.. we'll see! Mine is a 2+2 in silver from 1992 with leather and alcantera. only has a registrated(!) 89500km on it.. full history. (Totally original, NO power upgrade or other modifications! radio is put back in 10 min. as it has the original connectors on the new radio. (I took them from another radio so the wiring is orig!)) now for sale in the Netherlands.. (not even cleaned for this picture!) Prices are (also) high overhere.. this one? 40 grand.. yes that's euro's..

And if you get totally convinced it's a needle problem and can't find something stock the fits the bill, let me know. I've cut a few custom needles.

No way to remove that, that I know of. The discoloration is normally caused by delamination of the plastic layer in the middle from one of the pieces of glass. If most of it will be covered I would install it. I wouldn't use a sealant unless the windshield leaks. If it does, you should be able to pry up the edge and squirt it under at the leak locations

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Exactly one chain. Printed out a side view and laid out the chain around the outline. Took a couple of zooms in and out to get the scale down to exactly one chain. Added a couple of embellishments. Gotta do a 510 next. Can do another Z if you want!

Koito H4 housings: https://tinyurl.com/e8rcpjwd Auxito H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Bulbs-Brighter-Canbus-Lifespan/dp/B0DK5CSY2P Plug-and-play solution No relays needed Low cost Reliable Good beam pattern Can be converted to halogen bulbs if someone in law enforcement throws a hissy fit

The Evil (1978)

Hey guys, Been a while since I have been on the forum. Anyways my engine is cammed, and ever since the stock Bosch Jetronic fuel injection system had problems running the cam. Cold starts were near impossible, and mid-range throttle was never happy. I messed with it for well over a year but made the decision to go a different route. I decided to switch over to a new ECU and engine management setup. I chose the STM PRO because almost no material was out there on how to do it, and I find it to be a very capable ECU for sequential fuel injection. If anyone is considering swapping over to an aftermarket ECU, I highly encourage it. It seems super daunting at first to try and figure it out, but if you read lots of material, the fundamentals become very easy to understand, especially how different sensors and such are wired. Anyway, I provided a manual on how to put the STM PRO in your Datsun 280z. It is pretty comprehensive, but it is almost impossible to cover everything. It also references many links that you may find useful. I did make a wiring diagram, which I don't believe exists anywhere else for the STM PRO. It is specific to my setup, but you can tweak it however you need. Hope this finds someone to be of use for! The manual is listed as an attachment. PS. Special shout out to Pro TunerZ for setting me up with the STM Pro and all the other items that I bought. Everything was very high quality and I was very impressed. 280z STM Pro Conversion Manual (FINAL).pdf

Go to the Nissan museum wherever it is. All I have seen were the pictures and it's fantastic. Kats is a pilot so he's probably pretty busy but maybe...? Have fun and try not to spend all your money in the dirty panties vending machines. That's what I'd do.

@kats hopefully will reach out to you.

Things in Japan are not as 'obvious' to an outsider as they might be in NA and Europe. I agree with CO, in that Kays may prove invaluable. However, you need to be specific about what it is that you're looking for.

@kats might have some suggestions?