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Hello: John here in Portland, Oregon. I own a 77 280Z in 305 blue. It is lightly dressed as a 240Z (Bumpers), but not trying to fool anybody. I prefer the 280, having owned a 240 as well. I just never liked the 280 bumpers. I look forward to another club where I can learn things. Sometimes you need several POVs before jumping into something. Thanks in advance. JJ

Because it was sitting in my moderator queue and I just got around to approving it. I made a change to the software so all new members must go through a moderator queue until they have enough points. Once they reach my points threshold, they no longer go through the moderator process. This is to help reduce spam posts.

Raise the front up with ramps or jack stands when you're doing the valves or pretty much anything. It'll help when you try to stand up the next day.

I have been very pleased with Hagerty! Good coverage and cheap. I have 3 cars with them and should have a couple more in a few years. If I could have nothing but classic cars, I would

@jayhawk Thanks for the comments! I really enjoyed working on your car and am glad it has done so well. Let's see if we can get another winner with SN 00042 here. We should with all of the help I am getting 🤣😂

Hi, DrFeelGood, What you are pointing to in the photo is not a shim. It is simply the section of the countershaft between the front gear retaining snap ring and the front bearing. The shim fits between the front bearing and the front cover. If your measurement is 3.92 mm, or generally above 3.61 mm, this could result in excessive axial preload on the countershaft bearings. I would dismantle the countershaft and check the adapter plate bearing is fitted correctly. Note: The bearing in the adapter plate most probably failed because the countershaft is subjected to both radial and axial (thrust) loads. The adapter plate bearing takes most, if not all the axial load in the countershaft. The other bearings primarily support radial loads. A deep groove ball bearing is not really the best choice to withstand thrust loads. The axial force is generated by the gear mesh. The helical gears produce an axial thrust that can push the countershaft towards the rear of the transmission. If the front bearing shim is too thick for the measured clearance, it can create excessive axial preload, potentially contributing to premature bearing failure. In premature, I mean it failed and the other bearings didn't.

Today marks a big milestone in my project and a big step forward. But let's start from the beginning. Over the last weeks, I was very busy cleaning parts. From media blasting dirty bits: And enjoying the view of the shiny freshly blasted pieces: To recutting hundreds of threads on old OEM fasteners: To chemically cleaning and preparing parts for replating. I'm still looking for a good plating company, but at least the parts are piling up for being replated: Of course, the packages kept arriving, too. with various parts and documents: And some more: And then I got an information that my car will be picked up soon. So I realized, I need something to transport the engine safely. I quickly had an idea to repurpose an old Euro-pallette. Cut it in half and layered it: Used an NOS oil pan to creat the cutouts for the actual engine bottom: Testfit: Addd some cardboard for protection and to have enough space to have the pallette-roller underneat it without touching the pan: Done. Seems pretty safe. And then? to assemble the car. I spent an entire satuday, to go from this: To this: Most things went unexpectedly smooth, and then the smaller bits took forever. For e.g. the rear bumper with the EU lower number plate lighting, which didn't fit. I realized there are many different versions and in the end, I built my own version, which I thought looked the best. It's basically a modified OEM look. still close to the original, but stlightly cooler. Oh and wherever I had them ready, I used the OEM fasteners. Unfortunately, most still need to be replated, so in some cases, I still had to use temporary fasteners, which is no big deal, given that the body goes apart, soon again. I installed all hood, door and hatch locks without any alignment, just to keep the openings shut, during transport, but since it will go on a long journey, I decided better to be safe than sorry, and re-tightened all fasteners, and added some extra safety measures, to ensure nothing will pop open on the Autobahn. Also added some cardboard, to minimize rattling... And then, today, a friendly transport driver showed up. We loaded the engine first (now wrapped, to protect it from the rain): And then, the shell on the trolley: And off it goes to the very capable peeople at S30.world. The plan is to work on the car for about 10 months. This will include a lot of things, but first mainly body and engine. I will prepare a second shipment with all the smaller bits and pieces. As much as I love doing things myself. I've been working on it for more than 12 years, with minimal outcome, and lots of costs and time lost. I Just started a new, great job, and rather than having it sitting in my garage with slow progess for another 10 years, I decided to speed things up and giving it to some of the most talented S30 specialists. That doesn't mean there is no work left for me. there are plenty of bits and pieces to restore. So no worries. The updates will come. Both from the guys working on the car, and from my end. After all, I'm very excited to see the result in 2027. And I hope I can visit the car some days in between. Have a save trip, mylady:

Interrupting this thread to bring accolades to Motorman7 about a 240Z that he restored in 2019. In 2018 and 2019 Motorman restored my 240Z that I had bought new in 1973. (https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60309-were-bringin-back-the-flat-tops/) It came out so well that I've had fun taking it to ZCONs and local Concours and other judged shows. I had registered for this years huge (500+ cars) Japanese Classic Car Show in Long Beach, CA, but was considering not attending, as it was right after ZCON in Phoenix. But I started getting calls and emails from the JCCS staff that SEMA wanted my 240Z in their booth at JCCS. At first I ignored the calls because why would SEMA want a bone stock car, since isn't SEMA is about aftermarket mods and tuner upgrades? Turns out SEMA has a group called ARMO, Automotive Restoration Marketing Organization, and they wanted my car in the SEMA-ARMO booth. Well, Motorman's restoration won the JCCS Shokunin (Master Craftsman) Award for Best Stock Restored among the Vendor cars exhibited at JCCS. There were 3 restored stock Japanese cars up for that award, so Motorman's work outshown a couple of other professional shop restored classic japanese cars! Here is the Award that I will be shipping to Motorman soon: Thanks Again Motorman! Hope number 42 comes to ZCON 2027.

I drained the old gas out of the 240Z last week. Today, I got back to work on her. First, I installed a new battery. Then, I removed the valve cover and spark plugs so I could put oil in the cylinders and on the cam before turning the engine over. After that, I put a gallon or so of fresh gas in the tank and used a syringe to add gas to the float bowls and to the fuel line between the filter and fuel pump. After a spray of starting fluid to make sure combustion could happen, I tried to start the car. She fired right up and purred like a kitten. I'm looking forward to moving her to my new shop so I can do the rest of the work she needs: new vent hoses, springs & struts, and new rear brakes.

Not today (too much rain) but earlier this weekend I took the kids out for boba tea and as a fun excursion in the 280Z. Also took my almost 85-year old Dad out for a ride and to dinner last night. Probably would not have been able to do either if I didn't have a 2+2, as the rear seats came in handy to include both my kids and their best friend on the first excursion and my son rode in the back and was helpful in helping my Dad get in and out of the car. I think he was really impressed and was the first real chance he had to ride in it and get the full Z experience.

Alright, another little progress update via pictures as usual. First up, cleaned up the gas filler area before reinstalling the tank. Satisfying before and after. Don't say I don't listen to yalls advice. Installed a fuel pressure gauge. Aeromotive makes a good gauge, and they were on sale. She's back on her feet. Hot dog!! Really happy with the vintage color scheme, faded and worn though she may be. Really happy with how the gold looks with the silver and white letter tires. I'll be lowering her a bit in the future to reduce that gap as well, but for now, not bad! We're making the most with what we got. Probably didn't NEED to do this, but it would've been on my long term to-do list anyways so what the heck. Adjusted the valve lash. Man, I forgot how much I hate this task. It's not so much the task itself, but the horrible posture you have to hold to do the job. My back!!😬Overall, each valve was about 1 or 2 thousandths loose. Not bad at all. And now it's done and within spec. Was getting ready to take it around the block when I was reminded of this minor issue. Held together with hopes and dreams🫣 Thinking about how me and the previous owner were blasting around his neighborhood with this tie rod. Looks fine. Fixed. Yes, I see my sway bar bushings. Extra crispy. They're on the list, but still just trying to get it smogged first... Make-shift alignment setup. Listen, it looks rudimentary, but I'd say it get's you 80% of the way there. Big Alignment Industry has been suppressing this method for years 🤪 And here's where we're at now. As previously mentioned, I'm trying to set a baseline for the AFM air bypass screw. Screwed it all the way out to count the total number of turns, only to see that I'm missing the o-ring that's supposed to be on the end. The threads are numerous and and very fine, so I doubt I'm getting much of a vacuum leak due to the missing o-ring, but obviously I'm going to find a replacement nonetheless. Took this picture from Atlantic Z website, and you can see where there should be an o-ring... Hopefully my next update will include some updates on how it's running and driving, along with some smog test results. I won't hold my breath for a passing result, but we gotta start somewhere...

I finally got the center console in today. I had to repair a crack in the right rear corner, but that was no big deal. Some superglue, some JB Weld for plastic reinforced with fabric, some putty to fill what pits the super glue didn’t cover, and it’s nearly invisible. I sprayed all of my interior plastic with SEM Landau Black, and this piece came out the best. Other than the steel trim ring around the trays in the back, I used chrome paint pens for the silver trim. It looks okay. I kind of wish I had gone with silver leaf, but this is probably more resilient. The defrost emblem is done in white nail polish. I just masked the “choke” label. All of the hardware is new. The ash tray was surprisingly easy. The rail was pretty corroded, so I cleaned it up and sprayed it with zinc paint, but the cover just needed a polish. All of the switches were much less clean, so they were disassembled and cleaned up. I had to fabricate a terminal for the choke lever switch because it had snapped. I used a tab from some HVAC duct that gave me the same reading on the ohm meter as the original piece, so should be fine. I don’t know why the original had a hole in it, but it works without. Speaking of switches, I also made myself a switch for my fog lights and mounted it in the console between the ash tray and the shift stick. I used a junked defroster switch I had replaced with a better unit, so it wasn’t a problem experimenting. It has to go in upside down so the light doesn’t hit the choke lever, which meant inverting the guts. Basically I just popped the bottom out of the switch so the mechanism was reversed and put the button back in up side down. There was some cutting and filing involved, so do do this with a switch you care about. The console already has bosses and a hole for a switch like this, I just had to cut out an opening in the trim plate glued to the top of the console for the switch to poke out. The only issue is I don’t have a ground wire for the light, so I’m going to have to make a mini harness that will splice it into the ground wire for the defroster switch light. I think it looks great. The only thing I would change if I could is to make the switch green instead of orange. The other modification I made was repurposing the choke cable for the starter valves on the Mikunis. I doubt I’ll ever use them, but it’s nice to have the lever actually do something. I used a mounting plate for the lever because I didn’t want the console to crack, which meant a lot of fiddling to get things to line up and clear each other. I will need to make a new bracket for the throttle and choke cables now because the angle isn’t quite right. The fuel lines are also closer than I would like. I have around 3mm of clearance, so I’ll put sleeves on the cable between the starter valves just in case. There’s probably something I can do to raise the cable more, but that will take some thinking I can’t handle right now.

Don't lose those shims. I could not get my brakes to not squeal until I found an old crusty set of factory shims like those. None of the tricks/fixes worked.

I should probably post a little more frequently, so here is a fairly large picture dump. Things are moving along smoothly. I am hoping to be complete by the end of October. I have been adding items to the engine bay here and there, but am focusing more on the interior now. All the glass is in as well as the door handles and lock mechanisms. I thought the fenders were done, but Carlos says he has a bit more to do on them. Will add the dash and the remaining exterior body parts after ZCON.

What are your plans exactly? Is it mainly for looks? Are you planning to race the car? Are you having problems with the current brakes? A lot of the rear-disc conversions are mainly aesthetic. They look great, but they don't necessarily perform better than a properly working set of original drums. You'll find plenty of posts claiming a huge improvement after fitting rear discs, and that may be true. But often the improvement is simply because the original drums were worn, seized or badly adjusted. Unless you're going to a significantly larger brake setup, the difference may not be as big as you'd expect. I'm not a big fan of rear-disc conversions myself. The main concern is brake balance between the front and rear. The original system was designed and tested as a complete system, so I'd be cautious about judging a conversion based on a few hard stops in a parking lot. Brakes are a pretty important safety system! If it's mainly for aesthetics, the 280ZX rear setup is a fairly straightforward option. The 1979 to 81 rotors fit the 280Z four-stud hubs after removing the backing plates. You can also use the 1981 to 84 Maxima brackets (P/N 44155-04S10), or aftermarket adapters if they're still available. The 280ZX calipers have an integral handbrake mechanism, so with some fiddling you can use the original 280Z handbrake cables. A couple of things to note with the Maxima brackets and 280ZX calipers: you need to dismantle the stub axle to install the brackets (aftermarket brackets don't need dismantling the stub axle), and the calipers need to be swapped side-to-side. The 280ZX calipers sit behind the axle, while on the 280Z they'll be mounted in front. So the right hand "R" caliper goes on the left and vice versa. Otherwise, you won't be able to bleed them properly or use the handbrake mechanism. You can buy kits to do this and that would probably be the easiest way to go, but more expensive. There are other combinations of this set up out there. The 1985 to 87 Maxima calipers with the 1982/83 280ZX rotors and a custom bracket where also common. These are all what they call Stage 1 disc brake conversions. This setup is often paired with the Sumitomo S12+8 four piston front calipers. These were used on various Toyota 4Runner trucks and bolt straight onto the 280Z using the original 89mm mounting spacing, and pair up to the original 280Z rotors, although some backing-plate trimming is required. With the larger front/rear setup, I'd also consider upgrading the original 7/8" master cylinder to a 15/16" 1979 to 81 280ZX unit with p/n: 46010-N4700 for exmple or a 1" Wilwood. Otherwise, you may end up with a very long pedal due to the increased fluid volume required. There was some forum thread about the 720 truck (1981 to 86) long ago mentioning the 15/16" MC with p/n: 46010-F2700, but I'm not sure if it fits the booster.

If you take the whole distributor off as a unit, it doesn't change the timing (except for the small amount of play in the mounting bolt holes). By "as a unit", I mean like this. The engagement shaft is asymmetric and only fits one way. You can pull the whole thing and put it back and not change the timing:

I was a member of GROUP Z WAAY BACK when I had my 1ST Z car-71 240Z - I think it was 1982 after 5 different Z cars I'm back to a 73 240Z recently. This is/was a track car, w Real nice race gadgets from 1999. I'm taking it to the streets ! Lot's of work ahead, but keeping the Gadgets. I recently stripped the interior for new sound proofing and carpet, how ver, does anyone out there know IF there is a pattern for the rear shock towers? Instead of buying an entire KIT, all I need is the tower and wheel arch patterns OR some old intact vinyl ???? Anyway, I will share photos as soon as it is worthy-working on It everyday

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/IMG_3778.webp Three Z Cars Three Ways by Larry Chen We are excited to be part of a new episode of Jay Leno’s Garage featuring Larry’s own beloved SR20DET-powered 1970 Datsun 240Z, legendary John Morton’s personal Datsun 240Z and our KN20-powered Datsun 240Z. See Larry Chen’s message below and a few photos from the video shoot: “Filmed with legends yesterday Somehow I convinced John Morton, Rob Fuller and Jay Leno’s Garage Car Care to come together to do an all 240z show. Three different Datsuns modified three different ways. Can you believe that John got his first ever 240z at 82 years old? He waited that long to join the club. Keep an eye out for this episode on the Jay Leno’s Garage Car Care YouTube channel. Thanks to Z Car Garage for bringing the twin cam Honda K- Series Datsun Works car down. The last slide is of Jay ripping on the 350hp twin cam car.” http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/IMG_3771.webphttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/IMG_3781.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/IMG_3783.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/IMG_3785.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/IMG_3777.jpg More photos in the gallery! View the full article

The hose circled in red is a vent hose for the float bowl. It does not pressurize the float bowl. If the hose is disconnected from the air cleaner, it means you were pulling in some unfiltered air. The hose circled in blue goes down to the exhaust manifold, but it is open to the air, not connected to the manifold. When the flap is in Winter position, it blocks most of the air coming in from the front of the air cleaner, causing more of the air going into the air cleaner to pass over the exhaust manifold. It basically helps with drivability in cold weather. Have you downloaded the factory service manual for your car? They are available on this website in the Resources section. Also you can find owner's manuals here: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/ownersmanuals.php Both can help you on your path to get your Z running better.

Looks like some other stuff going on in the bottom of that picture. What is the toggle switch and wire nut all about? @Patcon I did mean spark erosion, in that I think it eats through the aluminum faster that brass/copper. It happened to mine. I have an older CDI unit on my set up as well.

I drove one of the S30.world 'test' cars fitted with their NISMO reinforced 6-speed just a few weeks ago whilst assisting Nostalgic Hero magazine staff who are doing a feature on their operations. The six-speed (paired with a 3.9:1 ratio R180) worked really nicely behind a well behaved street-tuned L24 (still on Hitachis) and was a pleasure to use. Don't know what else to say about it. It makes a lot of sense cost-wise as an alternative to a full rebuild of an A, B or C-type transmission (especially so for the Servo synchro variants) and the ratio spread seemed just right. We covered urban, 5-lane highway and winding 2-lane road mileage, so a good mix of conditions. That car is now on a road trip where it has been driven from Hungary, back through to France and onward south for some serious test mileage. I can't imagine the transmission conversion giving any cause for concern. The NISMO Reinforced RRS50 6-speed is used in several other conversion kits for the S30 (notably by ESCORT) and I've never heard of any problems with them. There were some production delays at AISIN - who make the transmissions for NISMO - due to flooding after the recent typhoons, but that situation should be improving by now.

Broken bolts fix. Ended up being able to remove both the broken drill bit and the easy-out. Decided to finish drilling out the stuck bolts and tap a M12x1.25 (original bolt was a M10x1.25). Had to enlarge the bolt holes in the link mount brace to 1/2 inch so everything aligned. Suspension back in place. Thanks to everyone for the support.

I bought a hand-operated transfer pump so I shouldn't have any trouble putting in the 1.5 L of Redline MT-90 when the engine and tranny assembly is firmly bolted into the chassis. Thanks, all, for the warning about tranny tail leakage as it's not mentioned in the FSM that I have.

The alternator came with an 800 number to call and unbelievably someone answered right away on a Saturday afternoon. He said the 2-pin readings were normal but the power pole resistance to ground meant it had a problem. Said send it back to z store.

I wouldn’t advise filling the trans before installation. Plenty of opportunity to do that while putting the cross member and shaft in.

After around 15 years of restomod work, I finally got an engine back into my car. It's a 3.1 L stroker. Oh, that looks so good to me. Next, I added the Findanza flywheel, clutch disc and Centerforce II pressure plate. Woohoo!! Feeling omnipotent, I tried putting in the 5-speed tranny and discovered that there is not enough clearance between the 6-into-1 header and the tranny tunnel to allow this to happen. I'd have to remove (and then reinstall) both the exhaust and intake systems to open up the space, so I reluctantly decided to remove the engine and attach the tranny to it off the car. Because I removed the original engine and 4-speed tranny as a unit when I started this project way back when, I should, with the help of an assistant, be able to put the same size assembly back into the car. Indeed, that's what the FSM says to do. So, a bit of a setback, but it's all good, right? Unfortunately, I then discovered that one of the two M10x1.5 holes in the tranny bell housing where the starter motor attaches is stripped. So now I'm cooling my heels waiting on a threaded insert kit to arrive. At least it gave me time to remember that I needed to put oil in the tranny: Redline MT-90. Better to do that off the car than have a Doh! moment and have to crawl under it to complete that task. Now to blast and refresh the drive shaft.

As a follow up, I have been using this booster on the road some and it definitely works. So it seems the refurbishment was a success

I finished the interior rebuild of my 1970 car this summer. It was originally blue, then got a 'restore' to black interior in 1991. Some of the panels are in pretty good condition, some of them are not (one of the quarter window panels is pretty bad). Door skins are ok condition. Anyway, don't consider these to be 1970 originals, that seems very unlikely to me. Free local pickup in twin cities area of MN, or I can try to ship them if you want to pay shipping. I can't imagine these panels are going to survive shipping intact. they are much thinner than the reproduction ones I put in to replace them (not saying thicker was better, made install a pain). passenger and driver dog legs Overhead plastic trim passenger and driver quarter window panel trim passenger and driver rear deck trim passenger and driver door skins (new) shift boot - this is not original style with the laces. Ended up restoring the one on the car. (new) E brake boot with snaps - accidentally bought 2 of these

I was going to comment this as well. Aside from leakage out the rear ( 🫤 ), the level/angle of the unit may result in over/under fill. My 2-cents.

I messed with it for a minute or two. Not done yet though. I'm going to pull all the old out and replace. $5.99 a quart for dot 3. It had air in there..

I put those self bleeders on my 280 in 2011. Can't remember why I didn't use them on the 240 in 2015-2016? I've used a contraption I came up with when I realized the cup wasn't holding the vacuum, too small of an oring wouldn't let it seal. Messing with brake fluid on 54 year old paint freaked me out when I found a small drop by the inspection lid above the brake stuff. I had driped a little refilling the clutch master. Washed that whole fender down with Dawn soap and water. Staying away from the 240, I've done my beater D21 pickup with good results. My shade tree correction for the crappy oring not sealing was a wood clamp.

A little of both. Never really did a good job bleeding the clutch when I did all the work to it years ago. Now I bought this POS Harbor Freight 1 man pump and the weather is finally tolerable enough to get out of the A/C and do some things. The dog can only walk so much, he's getting old.

Is there a problem or are you just looking for a reason to work on the Z?

This is the right side showing a round hole, another one down low. These are tha same on the left side with the hose. This is my OE radiator frame.

I just wanted to THANK all the ZCON attendees for bringing the CLOUDS and a bit of RAIN to Arizona! (Oh, I should probably thank that hurricane in Mexico too...) We haven't seen either in quite some time. Plus, it saved you from the 100 degree heat that still persists here in Arizona in SEPTEMBER.

Well, that took a lot longer than I thought, but alls well that ends well. I got a new MC from ZCar Depot (the cheaper of the 2 7/8th options). This one has reversed reservoirs from the one that came with my car, but flex lines from California Datsun worked great. Did bench bleeding, installed, bled the corners... brakes kinda work, but not really. tighten up rear wheel cylinders, do the whole thing over again (tried different angles when bench bleeding, for example). Checked for reaction disk having fallen. tried adjusting the setup with the pedal. everything I could think of, but still only felt solid when pedal is already half way down. Probably everyone knows by this time what it was, but it took me a long time to think of it. the MC that came with the car basically had the piston cup right up against the end of the cylinder where it fits into the booster. The new one, upon removal and examination, sits about 1.1-1.2 cm further inside the cylinder. so the pushrod wasn't even contacting it until the brake was half way down. Took out the pushrod, extended it (seemed to be pretty extendable, but a little worried I didn't keep unscrewing until I knew how long it was in there. felt solid anyway). et voila! brakes are firm. Went for first "joyride" in 8-9 years. all of 3 blocks away before I turned around and came back. the shock bump stops crumbled to dust and I'm still waiting on new struts from MSA. Don't want to hit any bumps too hard. Now for a nice water free wash.

Yep, two circular clips to secure the overflow hose. One about 1 1/2" below the top tank, one about 1" above the bottom tank.

Hello forum members; I'm Allen from Thousand Oaks, CA. My background is mechanical engineering specializing in system dynamics and controls. Some of my favorite memories are from the time that owned my first car, a 1979 Datsun 280zx. I recently purchased a project 1971 240z that I plan to do a complete restoration on. I will greatly appreciate any help the classiczcar community can provide and plan to post updates on my project as progress is made.

Thank you all for your comments. This is the closest picture I can find, circa 1989. An 18 year old with 20 years of experience as a mechanic.

Refurbished 240Z license light. Disassembled, cleaned, refinished in the original factory grey, fittings and internal diffusers replated in clear zinc, new screws and nuts for the clamshell, new gasket, perfect lenses, new white LED's. Tested and ready to install. $150 includes standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal or Venmo. PM if interested, thanks.

Cool video from Hagerty at the Juncheng manufacturing plant making classic car parts including the 240Z (about 11 minutes in).

No charge indicator light. What is the voltage at the battery when the car is running? I'm wondering if there might be an issue with the internal voltage regulator. Remember that new does not always mean good.

Actually if you suspect an air leak, replacing the rubber lines would be a good start and could alleviate the need for a check valve in the engine bay. If the rubber lines are allowing air in, they can allow fuel out in the future.

This is on Facebook in Shelton WA Will not last at that price. $3K

I launched the supplied hangers and went with some 304 Stainless sleeve clamps... this worked much better than I expected and the resonator and exhaust sections are virtually welded. The old clamps allowed some flexing of the joint and it leaked almost immediately. RC is getting this feedback as well... I used a rubber mount attached to the factory '73 exhaust support... all very solid and muffler is hanging in the proper place from the factory hangers. Completely leak free and solid now. Overall I'm delighted with this exhaust and these clamps make it perfect...

thank ya👍🏼 Yeah, still planning on smogging just to see the numbers so I can know if it’s running right and if all my various fixes worked. But after that, yep, I’ll be getting hagerty insurance and she’ll be smog exempt. Can’t believe that actually passed🤯 I’ll take it. Yes, starting jan 1, 1981 and older is exempt as long as one of the conditions you mentioned are met.

Opened just fine for me on my end.

Found this. It would be funny if it weren’t tragically true!