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Hi everyone. I own a classic car service/restoration shop in Michigan called Eclectic Motorworks. As the name implies, we see quite a variety of classic cars. Our business has traditionally been about 60% British, 15% German, 15% Italian, and the remaining 10% American and Japanese (mainly NA/NB Miatas). But in the past few years, we're seeing more Z cars. We currently have a one-family owned 260z, a 280z, and an original owner 280zx Turbo in the shop. All have been parked for many years and are in to be put back on the road (our most common service for many cars). I've attached a couple of pictures of the cars lined up in our service bays. We have an in-house chassis dyno (Dynojet) and we will dyno tune each car when the time comes (we've already had the 260 and 280zx on for some preliminary rough tunes). Anyway, we have been having a little trouble getting some parts and information for each of these cars, so I joined the forum so that I can get some of the detailed knowledge about the cars as we're making them roadworthy again. We really strive to fix everything properly and usually to the way the factory did it so that the next person who works on it can understand it. Thanks in advance!

A friend called me saying his brake lights would not turn off. Long-time members of this board are probably thinking that it's the the brake light pad at the pedal. That's what I guessed, too. And all of you would be right. Since he's an older gentleman, he asked if I could fix it for him, but he couldn't bring me his car for a couple of days. With that delay, I decided I could do an experiment. I bought a Dorman 74025, brake pedal stop pad kit from Amazon because it's designed for Nissans. I wasn't too worried about Amazon saying it wouldn't fit. My friend drove up to see me this morning, and I had the clear pad in my hand. As soon as he got out of the car, I leaned under the steering wheel to press the brake pedal and pushed the clear pad into the hole. I picked up the remnants of the old pad off the floor mat and handed it to him to show him that it basically rotted and fell apart. The nice thing about the Dorman 74025 is that I verified that it's frequently in stock at O'Reilly's, Auto Zone, and Advance Auto Parts. Napa has the part number 74025, but I don't know if they use the Dorman packaging. If you have Amazon Prime, you can probably get it overnight or the day after if you can't make it out to the parts store.

Just to clarify something about our subscription system: I have not put our files behind a paywall. Instead, certain files are now available only to verified community members. New members can become verified in one of two ways: Participate in the forums by making a few legitimate posts and joining the conversation, or Use the subscription system, which also verifies the account and helps support the club. Both methods have proven to be very effective at separating real enthusiasts from automated accounts and spammers. You may have already noticed that the amount of spam appearing on Classic Z Car Club has dropped significantly. Once a new member is verified, the system automatically moves them into the regular Community Member group and the restricted files become available. There has also been quite a bit happening behind the scenes. We were seeing a major increase in automated and invalid traffic coming into the site, which was creating unnecessary load and affecting other parts of the system. I've spent many hours cleaning up the backend, tightening traffic controls, and improving how the site handles this activity. The good news is that those changes are already helping. Spam has decreased, unnecessary traffic has been reduced, and if you do see advertising on the site, you may have noticed that the quality and relevance of the ads has improved as well. That matters because advertising and member subscriptions both help offset the cost of hosting, software, storage, backups, and keeping ClassicZCars.com online. My goal isn't to lock information away — it's to protect the resources we've accumulated over the years, reduce abuse, and keep the community sustainable for the people who actually use it. Thanks to everyone who participates, contributes, subscribes, and helps keep the Classic Z Car Club going.

From my profile: Second Z for me. Had a '75 for a short while. Blew the head gasket and didn't have the skills or $$ repair it. I lucked out and swapped for a '75 620 pick-up that was a blast. In 2024, I bought this lovely early '74. I bought it using money from a portion of my father's estate. I think of him when working on the car (which is a frequent event). My wrenching skills somewhat improved after getting back into motorcycles. I currently own an '07 Honda VFR800 in Candy Glory Red that I love to ride. P.O. had anE31 head put on in '02 along with removing all emissions and installing a pair of Hitachi SU carbs. I had the steering and suspension professionally done using Hiro coil overs (Shout out to Bryan Miner in Hillsboro OR) and had the door lock mechanisms refurbished by Norm Murphy at Zedssaver (Couldn't recommend him more). Soon after buying the car I was diagnosed with Parkinson's. On meds now and doing well. I did struggle and kind of shunned working on the car, but an attitude change has motivated me to bring her back to her former glory. This is what I've accomplished so far: 8/2025 New fan clutch, water pump, belts. 5/5/26 New (pair) door opening mechanisms $760 5/8/26 new window drives, window seal rubber, glass track felt, both door and windows disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, aligned. 7/11/26 Valve adjustment (first since 2002!) 7/16/26 replaced outside window trim, replaced 7/18/26 Replaced choke cable grommet. Replaced Choke cable bracket. 7/20/26 Replaced clutch throw out dust boot 7/22/26 new plugs, replaced rubber fuel line, added inline fuel filter 7/25/26 replaced gearbox and rear differential oil 7/27/26 replaced pvc hose, replaced front and back fuel hose plus inline fuel filter, fuel line insulation 7/28/28 Replaced rear hatch seal 8/15/28 New Alternator 8/24/26 New voltage regulator In the batter's box: R&R: transmission bearings, power brake booster, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, exhaust manifold studs, intake/exhaust manifold gasket, Cerakote the header (after what will be an epoch battle between sandpaper and rust/pitting) and the intake manifold. Look forward to mining the brain trust of this group!

Hey Everyone! I finally got my hands on another Z after foolishly letting my 2 previous ones go. Just had my 1977 280z delivered from California this weekend and it did not disappoint! Was a bit nervous as I bought it sight-unseen, but was relived that, like the seller stated, it doesn't have any rust! While it by no means is perfect, it's perfect for me. I'm excited to enjoy it for the remainder of the nice weather in the Midwest and look forward to tweaking it and making it my own. I'm certain you'll see a bunch of questions pop up from me over the next months and years so I appreciate all the help ahead of time!

Not sure I ever posted the finished product. Completely spaced on that. I'm still working on finishing a few other things so haven't gotten to really fire it up yet. Carbs need rework and the brakes are all being redone before I can really test it out. I do have to say other than the fitment issue with the sections mating properly the rest was a snap for someone like me, the hangers and everything worked great. I may choose to get that section reworked at some point with some type of extension or cut and weld if need be but I'll cross that when i need to.

And here's a cool image for the front page block Because why not...

I should probably post a little more frequently, so here is a fairly large picture dump. Things are moving along smoothly. I am hoping to be complete by the end of October. I have been adding items to the engine bay here and there, but am focusing more on the interior now. All the glass is in as well as the door handles and lock mechanisms. I thought the fenders were done, but Carlos says he has a bit more to do on them. Will add the dash and the remaining exterior body parts after ZCON.

What are your plans exactly? Is it mainly for looks? Are you planning to race the car? Are you having problems with the current brakes? A lot of the rear-disc conversions are mainly aesthetic. They look great, but they don't necessarily perform better than a properly working set of original drums. You'll find plenty of posts claiming a huge improvement after fitting rear discs, and that may be true. But often the improvement is simply because the original drums were worn, seized or badly adjusted. Unless you're going to a significantly larger brake setup, the difference may not be as big as you'd expect. I'm not a big fan of rear-disc conversions myself. The main concern is brake balance between the front and rear. The original system was designed and tested as a complete system, so I'd be cautious about judging a conversion based on a few hard stops in a parking lot. Brakes are a pretty important safety system! If it's mainly for aesthetics, the 280ZX rear setup is a fairly straightforward option. The 1979 to 81 rotors fit the 280Z four-stud hubs after removing the backing plates. You can also use the 1981 to 84 Maxima brackets (P/N 44155-04S10), or aftermarket adapters if they're still available. The 280ZX calipers have an integral handbrake mechanism, so with some fiddling you can use the original 280Z handbrake cables. A couple of things to note with the Maxima brackets and 280ZX calipers: you need to dismantle the stub axle to install the brackets (aftermarket brackets don't need dismantling the stub axle), and the calipers need to be swapped side-to-side. The 280ZX calipers sit behind the axle, while on the 280Z they'll be mounted in front. So the right hand "R" caliper goes on the left and vice versa. Otherwise, you won't be able to bleed them properly or use the handbrake mechanism. You can buy kits to do this and that would probably be the easiest way to go, but more expensive. There are other combinations of this set up out there. The 1985 to 87 Maxima calipers with the 1982/83 280ZX rotors and a custom bracket where also common. These are all what they call Stage 1 disc brake conversions. This setup is often paired with the Sumitomo S12+8 four piston front calipers. These were used on various Toyota 4Runner trucks and bolt straight onto the 280Z using the original 89mm mounting spacing, and pair up to the original 280Z rotors, although some backing-plate trimming is required. With the larger front/rear setup, I'd also consider upgrading the original 7/8" master cylinder to a 15/16" 1979 to 81 280ZX unit with p/n: 46010-N4700 for exmple or a 1" Wilwood. Otherwise, you may end up with a very long pedal due to the increased fluid volume required. There was some forum thread about the 720 truck (1981 to 86) long ago mentioning the 15/16" MC with p/n: 46010-F2700, but I'm not sure if it fits the booster.

Hey Everyone! I wanted to share a new microfiche/resource sharing website I've been working on. A couple years ago I bought a full set of microfiche slides for the Datsun Zs and scanned them at my local library. I wanted a more easily searchable database of parts and the ability to add things like torque specs, notes, or references. The result is at the link below! Still a work in progress as I still need to verify and clean up the information and number callouts for about 80% of the diagrams but the site is functional. If anyone has ideas on what they'd like to see added in the future feel free to comment or send a message through the contact page! Thanks for looking! https://datsunresource.com/

Another little update by way of pictures. I believe I have everything in place to begin re-assembly. Everything removed has been degreased at a minimum, and in some cases more than that. One of those "while I have it off the car it sure makes sense to refurbish it" situations. Anyways, I'm happy I did it. Again, balancing time with results. She'll never be a show car, but with minimal time and effort, I can make it look 80% better at basically zero cost🙂 Here we go... Here's the fuel rail before, exactly as I removed it from the car. Crusty and oxidized... Mounted it in a vice, cranked up some tunes, and scrubbed away with some degreaser and a scotch brite pad. A perfect afternoon task... I had 1 can of 2K matte clear left over from refinishing the wheels and opted to use it on the fuel rail and coolant lines. They came out great, and the 2K should keep them that way. Again, while I have em off the car, why not spruce them up a bit. I know it's a slippery slope, but trust me, there's a limit to how far I'll go...😉 Shiny😎 I did the same thing to the injector hardware because I had more paint than i knew what to do with😅... Speaking of injectors, here they are. Assembled and ready to be installed. New seals, hoses, and pintle caps. All serviced and confirmed good by Jim at injectorrepair.com. I also polished up the aluminum injector holders because why not... Here are the injector filter screens that were replaced, plenty of debris and varnish it looks like... I also replaced the bottom rubber pieces on the inner fender splash shields. Ready for install... More to come. Stay tuned. Also an interesting fun fact, I've been following Leno's law 2.0 here in CA. It's looking promising (which is shocking), and if it does pass, this 78 would be smog exempt. I won't hold my breath, but who knows. I'll prolly end up getting it smogged anyways before the law takes effect next year, which will at least allow me to know it's running right. Thanks for following along this far👍

Just in case you haven't seen it, here's a factory document showing the system as fitted to Japanese (RHD) variants. You can see the hose and grommet that go in your drain hole:

with badges...

@darom Here is the back half of a video. I live in an urban area, sadly no cool twisty roads to enjoy. This run is on a nearby toll road. My old GoPro has a port for an external mic, I attached it to the bumper just above the exhaust outlet. When I passed the semi and the RV I was running about 80 mph, 4,000 RPM. The sound is quite livable in the cabin. 50th Anniv. Clip.mp4

When I signed on to this site I did so with the intention of passing along some of the knowledge I've gained from servicing, repairing and restoring Z cars for more than 50 years. While I've had to deal with a good deal of head winds, which I generally ignore, I'm confident that some members have put to good use the info I've passed along. I recently took a break from taking inventory of my large pile of NOS "Holy Grail" 240/260/280 parts to put together some info regarding, mostly, 240 front suspension fasteners and rubber. Here goes. The following parts are still available from Nissan. except as indicated. Prices are MSRP. Dealers are NOT REQUIRED to charge these prices and almost all charge more. Remember, Nissan stopped plating fasteners yellow many years ago. So, 99% of fasteners you buy today from your dealer are clear and will need to be replated yellow to be correct. Do not be afraid of using Nissan rubber suspension components. They are NOT crusty and dusty. Front sway bar body mount bushings 54617-21002 $10.93 Front sway bar body mount bolts 08120-8201E $2.15 Front sway bar upright bushings 56112-W5000 $10.37 Front sway bar upright nuts 08911-2401A $1.77 Thin front sway bar nuts 08911-3401A $1.03 Nyloc front sway bar nuts 08912-3401A $1.00 T/C (strut rod) bushings 54476-21000 $14.90 Ball joint to control arm 8MM bolts No Longer Available (NLA) Ball joint and strut rod to control arm bolts 08174-0451A $17.73 Jam nut for above 08912-8401A $1.53 Jam nut for spindle pins and end of strut rods 08912-8421A $4.27 Jam nut for inboard front control arm bolt NLA (you did replace the bushing, didn't you?) Jam nut for steering rack mount, steering rack snubber and muffler clamp (yes, I have an NOS 240Z muffler clamp) 08912-7081A $2.25 Jam nuts and nylocs MUST NEVER be reused. Reuse is unsafe and could result in heart break. But what about the jam nuts that are NLA? The best advice I can offer is to use a few dabs of red locktite. DO NOT torque the inboard control arm and strut rod nuts before the suspension is settled. What am I talking about? During assembly, tighten the nuts to slightly snug. Drive the car a couple hundred yards at slow speeds before going to full torque while the car is still on the ground. There are a couple of rear suspension points where this process also applies but I'm running out of time and need to hike to the mail box before the bugs start biting in earnest. PS The latest edition of the SAE mag "Automotive Engineering" has a good article on EV fasteners. That's a whole different world!

Thanks everyone. I can already tell this forum has a great culture and lots of knowledge. I'll keep you posted as things progress. The Z cars in the shop right now are all kind of background projects during the summer and we'll be picking back up on them soon.

Quick test is to disconnect the cable from the heater valve and see if the temp control can move through its full motion. This will prove the valve is faulty and lets you see the distance the cable core moves at the valve to let you understand how far the valve arm has to move. Another issue might be a sync issue. You have to position the valve in full open position by hand first, then position the temp control lever in the full hot position, THEN tighten the set screw on the core at the valve. (Can also do this in closed/cold position). If the lever was half way when the valve was fully open or closed, then the lever movement would be restricted to less than full motion

To remove the rear seal, just gently tap a medium-sized flat-blade screwdriver between the shaft and the seal, then pry it out. It’s good to be cautious, but I think you may be overthinking it a little. Don't tap a screwdriver in between the housing and the seal outer edge. That can damage the housing and create futures leakages. Oh, and do what Yarb suggested. If you’re replacing these seals because you’re concerned they might leak, then the speedo O-ring, striking rod seal, and O-ring are just as likely to leak if you leave them unchanged. Removing the rear extension housing is not as hard as it seems. The parts you will need: Front cover gasket. 32112-08U01 Front seal 30/45 × 8 mm NOK: AH1679G Nissan: 32114-Y4000 Rear seal 35/50 × 11 mm NOK: 400402N Nissan: 32136-U010A Striking rod and speedo O-ring 24 × 2.5 mm (ID × CS). 32710-14600 Striking rod inner seal 14/20 × 4.2 mm. 32858-U6702 Speedo pinion seal 10/16 × 4.2 mm. 32709-14600 Reverse checking assembly o-ring (later 5-speed models) 22 × 2.5 mm. No Nissan part number available Selector checking springs (3 pieces) 32830-20100 Selector return spring 32852-24901 All those parts shouldn't cost more than $30 - $40 max. You can also find a spare parts list in the document section on this site.

Your car, do what makes you happy.

Welp, another little progress update. It's been wicked hot here for the past couple weeks so progress has been slow. 🥵 But I got a few things knocked out! I think very soon I'll be turning the corner and putting everything back together. While I've got everything apart, I can't help but freshen things up. Currently I'm cleaning up the fuel rail and steel coolant lines of surface rust and giving them a coat of 2K matte clearcoat. The same clearcoat I'm using on the wheels, so I'm spraying it all together. Anyways, I'll post some before and after pics of that down the road. For now, wheels and injectors! Wheels: Wheels came out great, I'm super happy with them!😃 I called R&E paint supply, told them I'm looking for Datsun 690 golden mist metallic. They said they could get within 95% of the original, and I'd say they nailed it. I also got primer and 2K matte clear coat from them. The 2K clearcoat is the boss move here because it'll protect these wheels from typical automotive solvents that will eat up a 1K finish. I didn't bother trying to polish up the bare aluminum parts of the wheels because I would've been at it for weeks, and the dull aluminum finish fits with the rest of the patina finish anyways. This is one of those low cost, high visual impact projects that I quite enjoy. Injectors: Got em back this week, woohoo! Maybe another clue as to why it wasn't passing smog. I sent in 6 OEMs (thanks to @siteunseen for providing me with some spares) and 1 aftermarket. Looks like the single aftermarket injector I sent in was flowing more volume than the other OEM injectors. I obviously won't be using it. Looks like the spray pattern wasn't great for several of them as well. Money well spent in my opinion to know that they're cleaned up and ready to go. These were not fun to tape up. Had to use a razor blade to get everything crisp. The green 3M automotive tape was the right choice for the critical areas... Here's what I used, all from R&E paint. Can on the left says sealer but it's actually primer. Guess it was mislabeled they said... The end result. Really like that 70s gold look. Very Trans-AM like... A bit closer up... Oh yeaaaaaaah, the vibe is right🔥These with some white letter tires should be just right... Injector report, I'll be using the OEMs... Anyways, that's all for now. Slowly but surely...

This is me, moving servers around last night Me, after I finished it. And this morning...

Depending in the condition of your tanks, there's nothing wrong with having your radiator re-cored. Then too, its all about the skills of the shop doing the work. My OE two-row became troublesome after just a few years of ownership and after several repairs I had it re-cored to a three-row. Still running it today with not a single repair and it holds up well to Texas heat.

Your Nissan paint code 214 was used from 1974 through 1978. Here are the manufacturer paint codes. Take this info to an automotive paint store and ask them to check their computer to see if they have the formula on file. Some paint stores can make up a rattle can while liquid paint may only be available in a quart size or larger (big $$$). As an alternative, contact a touchup supplier like this one to see if they can match your color. Touchup pint is usually available in small brush on quantitites. https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

I got the car out for a longer drive today and this exhaust is impressive. It sounds super refined and makes no obtrusive noise at cruise... you can listen to the stock radio comfortably. I't really throaty under acceleration and it appears to have made a decent power improvement, probably mostly due to shifting at 4500 vs 4000 where the old exhaust started to lose is composure. It's really nice at idle and growls under full throttle... really does sound like an OEM component (no popping, no drone, engineered sounding "ping" to let you know it's there. Happy endings are the best!

I would imagine it was a matter of cost, weight and complexity (both in hardware and in fit/no fit building and ordering). The struggle in keeping weight down for some markets was something chief engineer Hitoshi Uemura often mentioned in his stories about the creation of the S30-series Z, so it may well have been a key factor. Nevertheless, the aircon-related details were built into every bodyshell, as well as the basic design of both RHD and LHD heater/fan units.

Nothing is so sweet as the Symphony In Straight Six!

And. The. Chase is on!

Welcome to the group, that's a great looking shop. You'll not find a more knowlegeable and suppotive bunch of owners and enthusiasts anywhere else on the interweb. Going foward, if you have questions regarding any of your project cars I recommend you provide the VIN and build date for the car in question. Nissan made a lot of mid-model changes and those details can help improve the accuracy of any responses.

Time for a very long overdue update on the project. I wasnt silent because of no progress. Quite the opposite, actually. I was so busy with all the small things that I simply found no time to post here. And also you don't want to see every bolt I spent an hour on cleaning it. So instead of boring you with all the small details, I rather post a little summery. So what happened in the last few weeks? In the last post, I thought I had everything disassembled. Well, turns out there was more stuff to dismantle. for e.g. the windows: I also decided to disassemble the window regulators, which requires drilling out the rivets (or whatever you call those), because all the old plastic rollers were completely wasted. And last but not least, the door locking mechanism. Which consists of surprisingly many individual parts: I also disassembled the rear quarter window frames completely. While they looked OK from the outside, I knew from one previous case, that the L-shaped brackets that hold the frame together are the weak point that often rots away. this one was no different. Luckily I was able to find some sets that survived. So first was to remove all the gunk and old rubber from them. which alone took a few days (Soak it in kerosine worked nicely): After everything was cleaned, I sprayed all the rust-prone points (everything that is not stainless-steel) with a special rust-protection / epoxy primer (Swiss product, called Brunox). This stuff is amazing. It reacts with the metal and turns it purple-blackish, and at the same time adds a clear primer coat. You need to apply 3-4 layers, but once dry you can paint straight over it. So once that was done, I painted all the areas which were originally flat black in - you guessed it - flat black again. I will now use the best set to reassemble some rear quarter sets for me. The last step was only to polish the stainless steel again and remove some of the minor scratches. Still needs a bit of work but they're more or less ready for reassembly. Speaking of reassembly: I had a few EU-spec rear bumpers (without overriders, but with the additional holes for the additional lower number plate lighting). but either the brackets were rusted away, or they were damaged beyond repair. Well I had collected so many over the years, so I took them all apart: And managed to assemble one pretty solid one. With some cleaning and my NOS fasteners and brackets, it almost looks like new. It has some nasty spots under where the rubbers originally where, so I will have to have that fixed and rechromed again. but at least it's straight and complete... As my original doors had the body-line removed (cleaned) by some previous owner, I thought it's easier to replace the entire doors than to have somebody fix that. Especially since they needed some rust repairs anyway.. Luckily i still had some spare doors and found an additional set. Just in case: I brought them to my local paint-stripping company. They use an alcoholic solution which is relatively PH neutral compared to acid based solutions others use. Also they dip the parts in a weldable KTL-primer if you want so. (that strange olive-green color): I marked all the damage and then chose the best sets to go on the car. While hunting for parts, I also found a used, originally Swiss-Car FS5C71A early 5-speed ("Competition", in some markets) transmission and decided to bring it back to Switzerland as a spare, in case mine fails (It's kind of hard to find parts these days): Speaking of Parts: I have meanwhile collected all the required parts to rebuild my Mikuni PHH's My Carb specialist was in Japan the other week to learn from the experts and I made sure he ahs the correct tools for it too (more details on that soon): I also got some missing documents and cool parts from Japan: That Brake Master cylinder repair kit is quite neat: I also got some stuff from USA for my collection and some parts needed to assemble everything on the car: Now I'm slowly starting to assemble things on the car with all original Nissan Hardware. It's still just temporary, So some items might be missing, but I replaced the J-hooks and tank straps with new / replated items. Got my NOS front bumper brackets in stalled: And also all the mechanical hardware for the inspection lids. This stuff needs all to be installed for the bodyshop to make all the adjustments and some will even get painted-over. Just as it was from the factory. I have a constant stream of new Nissan factory parts arriving here. Some don't have that original yellow passivation on them like the old units did (Chrome VI+ is banned in many places due to the hazard, but it's still possible if you find an accredited company with all the neccessary paperwork and precautions). So these parts need to be replated, despite beeing new: I was very lucky to find a reasnobly priced set of NOS FRP headlight buckets with the threads for the original Nissan headlight covers in it. very nice. And also foun two Sets of NOS MK63 brake pads. Some say they contain asbestos. I don't plan to use them (I have project u brake pads in stock) but I I think they look so nice with the factory color marks and will but them on display. I also found some nice color charts and other stuff in Germany recently. Just for my archives :-) And then the game-changer arrived. I present you "The beast": My old compressor was simply to small and not enough powerful to cope with my now almost daily blasting work. What was supposed to take an hour, took 3 days of work because of the lame compressor. So here is the new one, including some chemicals for my parts cleaning production line... (Ultrasonic cleaning fluid, Parts cleaner degreaser, and Evaporust, plus some hand-soap :-P) I also heavily modified my blasting cabinet for improved LED lighting and dust-suction so now it's really a blast (pun intended) to do some work. Some examples: Engine mounts and crank pulley washer, before: After (I mainly use Glass-bead blasting at 8bar pressur with a 6mm Nozzle), for that smooth, flat and dense surface finnish. Hand-brake mechanics, before: after: So the reason i'm doing all of this is that I plan to drop off a massive load of parts for zinc plating and yellow / blue passivation. I'm currently negotiating and trying to find the best shop. Some can do big loads of small parts in rotating drums, others do it all manually. Some can still do the original Chrome VI+ Yellow passivating, others use replacement methods. Some with the same effect, some not so much yellow. I hope I find someone good. It seams that at least one company is less of an industrial plating company but more specialized in classic car parts. Probably the most expensive one, too :-P I'll keep you updated and hope I can keep the pace...

Some people are so nit-picky! Weirdos

Painted my freshly bored and decked block. Internals are out for balancing and should be done tomorrow. Then I finally get to start re-assembling!

@dutchzcarguy You are correct, but aesthetically I felt that the OEM paint scheme makes the 4 gold spokes too prominent, and I've never been a fan of the "4 spoke" look, so I added some extra gold in there to add more interest and lessen the 4 spoke look. It was a stab in the dark, but I'm happy with the look.

Classic Z Car Club Hosting & Homepage Update We’ve recently completed a few important upgrades to ClassicZCars.com. First, the site has been moved to a new hosting platform, helping us significantly reduce ongoing server expenses while maintaining the performance and reliability needed to support the community. We’ve also refreshed the front page with a more modern layout and improved content presentation. As part of that update, the large advertisement that previously appeared at the very top of the page has been moved farther down, allowing the site’s content and community features to take center stage while giving the homepage a cleaner, more polished appearance. These changes are part of our ongoing effort to keep Classic Z Car Club running efficiently while continuing to improve the experience for members and visitors.

Several members of the Georgia Z Club went to a charity car show. It turns out we were a significant percentage of the cars that showed up. Unfortunately, no one brought a Z31 or Z34, but we had good representation otherwise.

At this point, I can safely assume the new server is working fine. It's been a few days and I've received no complaints (so far).

"engine room, light the boilers and bring the new server online!"

Did you install new calipers? If so, make sure the bleed screws are at the top of the caliper. It wouldn't be the first time someone swapped left and right calipers.

@nowak1981 Search reaction disc threads on this site and you will understand what @Terrapin Z means. Very common problem. Has a direct correlation with the problem you’re experiencing.

N36 received and cleanup has begun! Thanks Terrapin!

Pardon me for stealing this thread, but I have pictures of the spark plug wire design for 1969, 1970, 1971, and 1972. I could see how to make a screen for this and print this on a spark plug wire set. It would look original. No one would ever notice if you missed some detail. Time consuming, and thus, expensive. Again apologies for horning in on the battery cable thread. I have a cable set, old original in good shape, and the reproduction set.

No, we secretly decided you're the guinea pig.

Haha, yeah nice! New server is online and working great. Let me know if you guys see any issues. As far as the oil senders, they are from a Volvo Penta TAMD63. The little block on the bottom is a remote location fed by a hose. There are two rubber mounts on the bottom to help dampen the vibration. Yesterday I added a T splitter so I could add digital gauges without affecting the analog instrumentation (those two sensors). I've learned a lot about analog gauges from this installation, especially when you want to run multiple gauges from a single sender. Crazy learning process about 2-station senders and floating vs house ground systems.

@astrohog @texasz DM's sent

Can I take it apart? Yes. Put it back together again? We’ll see… as soon as I got the top part off some plastic bits fell out. I would say those are what’s left of the impeller. Might work with a new one. In for a penny…

The pump motor does not produce suction, it depends on a gravity feed of the washer fluid. Check the attachment of the supply and output tubes to see if they are correct. Ask me how I know!!! 😉

Yes. These circuits are powered off the ignition relay.

Thanks for the feedback 26th-Z. Here are the latest pics. Got the carbs and fan on. Moving to the doors and interior for now.

I missed you guys! I drove my Z last week and a guy tired to buy it on the spot. Kept asking me to reconsider and gave me his card. Not a chance o told him. You’ll see me back on here.

Ferg!!! 🙂

Glad this helped. This forum has solutions to just about every issue Z owners face, not to mention some smart guys to help.