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Those are not 240Z mirrors(at least not for cars delivered in the USA). The only side mirror a 240Z destined for the USA came with was a 96301-E4600 on the left door. Any thing else was a dealer, or previous owner replacement... I have hunted all the corners of the earth for a true Rh version of this mirror, and Nissan never released one, several people have rotated the flag to approximate one, but a study of the base or stalk will show that the angle of the rh is same on the rh and lh examples, proving the rh is the lh used differently. I have phone made phone calls to every english speaking parts depot Nissan has, and initiated several language proper calls to most of the non english speaking ones as well. I have contacted Nissan North America, The Nissan Museum, and verified every parts book I could find to come to this conclusion. I will have an avaiable answer or this problem next year-once again, as my car get ready for the street. ( I haven't forgotten, Victor!) WIll P,S, both of those in the picture are LHS. for now...

Zinc phosphate is really a temporary coating for metal and should get primer ASAP. I'm assuming the dipping place uses electolysis in a lye or soda bath. (Could be wrong) If they do then the areas hidden from view aren't getting derusted as well since electrolysis is line of sight and proximity sensitive. It is the best way to strip paint and do some light derusting. I've tried it and been amazed. Does the dipping place offer a primer sealer bath or at least some means of addressing the inside inaccesable areas? (Rocker P's, Pillars, QP's) For visible areas epoxy primer is the best if followed by phosphoric treatment. (ZPhosphate) Epoxy makes the best barrier to keep moisture out during prolonged prep. Most other primers are permeable and can actually hold moisture if topcoated before drying. Zinc Chromate really needs to be topcoated with something impermeable and should not be relied upon for more than a day if you are shooting for 0 sheet rust under your paint. People do get away with less all the time but we are trying to save what precious little thin sheet metal we have left. To my knowlege most primers need to be topcoated within three days for a good chemical bond. In hot climates this time can be shorter. After three days pass the primer needs to be scuffed before other coats follow. Epoxies can stay on for up to a year before they need to be stripped. PPG has great .pdf docs regarding proper use and prep for all their products... http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmSiteIndex.asp# I'm no expert but I just stripped and repainted my Z. There was minimal rust underneath the paint which verified that the use of ZP and epoxy during the six month prep period worked. (Paint was 17 years old) My2c http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html