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Red Dog: Wait---did you say cheap? 1) Triple carbs: $1800 rebuilt or $700 on Ebay plus $5-700 in parts to get it running right 2) Performance Headwork: price predicts quality and results. $1000 or more (Rebello, et al) 3) SUs: cheap to rebuild, $700 for refurbished. $850 for 50mm overbored ones. 4) OR, a 280ZX L28ET and accessories for $5-800. Give or take a few bucks. ...at least you saved some money on leaving the block alone... So, what does cheap mean to you? You have to understand that this is 35-year engine technology we're talking about here. It has inherent limitations which are expensive to overcome, especially if you try to keep the stock displacement and induction. Remember, HP is just a number for dyno queens and wannabes to throw around to look cool. You have to consider gearing, driveline inertia, suspension, and (wait for it).....driving skill.... when evaluating your setup. I think that may be what you're really after, yes? A fun car that you can go fast with, turn quick, control well, stop on a dime? I apologize if this sounds confrontational. Without altering the block or raising compression to 110-octane race fuel-only applications, anything above 200HP is almost impossible. To get the best NUMBERS out of this engine series, you have to be willing to go pretty radical. Stroke it out. Turbo. Whatever. Otherwise, be ecstatic with 205 crank HP. In a car which weighs 2400lbs (or less), with proper gearing, suspension, tires and skill you can do 13s at the drags and beat that Mustang in the turns. Good luck, Steve

I'll toot my own horn: http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/240StrutKit.html

The unisyn works fine at idle and cruising rpms. The button in the center is rotated in or out to allow for as little/much airflow as needed for adjustment at any rpm.