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Here they are! Y'all better get these. Cyber Monday $306 each plus shipping which isn't bad at all, $63 for both from Connecticut to Alabama. I got them so close I don't think a playing card could slip between the bumper and body. Both sides pulled in perfect too. Rear is next but I'm going to paint the tow hooks and need to get some stainless carriage bolts to put the 3 pieces together. Not going to use the old rusted ones. Thank You Dave Patten @ futofab.com.

apologies if this is a repost

Hey Siteunseen Thanks for sharing your experience/knowledge with me . Did you notice any difference in the sound of your Zcar after doing what you did.

The starter should be fine. No worries there. It is just a consequence of high initial (static) timing. You could also swap the advance canister to one with less advance. You could also modify the vaccum advance to have less excursion. In fact if you carefully chip away at the plastic seal in the centre of the canister, you will find an adjuster. It is usually difficult to do however. Have a look at the bottom of this page for what lucks under that blob: http://newprotest.org/projects/510/jasonGrayDistributor.pl Another modification would be to try to extend the grove in the canister that pulls the advance pin inside the distributor. You could even put a small hole in the vaccuum advance line so there is less vacuum to pull it.

They look amazing!!! I am so jealous...!!! Well done for your choice and your Z...

i haven't installed my rear bumper yet (came in the mail just before the holiday!!) but when i did my front, a while back, i simply bought rubber fender washers from the hardware store. worked a treat and very cheap. they had a big selection of sizes, found a set that were perfect. also allowed me to shim just the right amount for the fit i wanted.

Yeah I know, it would have been great to get to and my daughter wanted to go but it wasn't meant to be.......we're about to get work done to her 280zx to rid the rust, so she can take her own next time around

Wow thats one serious rust bucket! Sure has a lot of interior door skins. Small fortune right there if in good shape.

Not a big fan of the shaved bumper look and headlight delete, or the paint job. It's definitely a custom cali hot-rod. Not my cup of tea.

I bought a Quick-jack BL-3500 from BendPak http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/BL-3500.aspx I got the 12v versions so I could use it on the race car at the track. It works well, lifts the car 17" off the ground and it is much more stable than jack stands. If you will never use the portability of the lift, it comes in a 110v version as well. My only complaint is that it is kind of heavy, but that is because it it very well built. Marty

Lots of threads about this to search and learn from, and I'm neither sage nor racer, but here's my .02 from having done similar to my 78 280: For looks/stance - Eibach progressive kit will drop you down enough to get a better look w/out rubbing or a harsh ride - nice street compromise in my opinion. Best bang for buck in performance will be a thicker set of sway bars - do both front &rear together. I did the MSA ones and boy, what a difference. Removed body roll and made the car track so much better. Both the above mods are pretty affordable and other than typical tools, you only need spring compressors and a pickle fork to split the front tie rods. You can do the whole thing on a Saturday in your driveway.

Can the socket for the parking light/TS bulb be taken apart? I'm getting voltage to the socket for the turn signal bulb, but the bulb and receptacle were corroded so maybe there's corrosion inside (the area with the spring) that not letting enough current through to light up the TS filament. The clear plastic cap under the rubber cover on the back of the socket isn't coming off easily, don't want to wreck it. Found a part number for the socket and short harness: 26124-E4600, but there probably aren't any. Good chance it's not the problem anyway.