Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/05/2014 in all areas

  1. Welcome to the group triple group - hope you like to read!
    1 point
  2. Can you post some pictures? Sounds like it might be running rich and you could have a broken/leaking intake/exhaust gasket. Once everything's set up properly you should have a steady idle around 800rpm. How bad is the leak? Chuck
    1 point
  3. As a teen (1970) I worked at a 'Service Station', this was before self-serve, with a fill up we had to wash the windshield, check the oil, check all belts, check the tire pressure, and any thing else the owner wanted or needed. And the price of gas was, for the most part, was 32.9 cents per gallon. During the 'gas wars' that happened sometimes, it was as low as 17.9 cents a gallon. This is wnen I saw my first 240Z. He left a long black mark across my lot as he left. I was impressed. Seven years I bought my 73 that I still own today. Bonzi Lon
    1 point
  4. The Parts you can find in australia. (ask them By mail, they can build a Kit for you with all parts incl. http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/index.php?cPath=16_71&osCsid=8311bfb771c22ae89b71f6f846f03d0f and I do have a FS5C71B Manual in PDF but a FS5C71A transmission Could you send me yours? I tried to upload the File but it didn't work... Contact me and we can exchange them by PM or Mail.
    1 point
  5. I've the foam, webbing, and seat cover set from Motorsports but I'm no way qualified to do this work without hosing it up. And I don't have the "hogrings, or tools for it" A man's gotta know his limitations :-) No instructions came with it so I'm not even sure where one would begin. I'm also concerned that if I start and screw it up an upholstery shop isn't going to touch it.
    1 point
  6. I just received notification of the tail lights being shipped. I look forward to tracking their progress as they travel from New Hampshire to California. Good vendor communication. Thanks, Dave! Dennis
    1 point
  7. Going back to Jason Gray's excellent distributor article, many people skip over the part on Vacuum advance. Don't do that. Read it carefully and then read it again. http://newprotest.org/projects/510/jasonGrayDistributor.pl Here is a very important part pertaining to the Datsun Electronic Distributors, as others have mentioned: So what does that tell us? Well lets say you want a total mechanical advance of 32 degrees ( Depends on fuel quality and other factors ) at 3,500 to 4,000 rpm. Full mechanical advance is usually all in by 3,500 rpm. Some people prefer it coming in faster, some later. It all depends on the engine, fuel quality and drive-train setup. You should check the distributor plate and calculate the numbers. IE: a 10 stamp on the dizzy plate = 20 crank degrees. Add 12 degrees initial timing and you're bang on at 32 degrees total. Now lets look at the D6K82-01. This has an 8.5 dizzy plate = 17 degrees crank advance. A fairly common number. Add 15 degrees initial timing and you have you 32 degrees total mechanical advance. Always double check the figures with a Dial-back timing light. Notice that we have not discussed vacuum advance at all. That's because when setting total mechanical advance, you musty always have the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor ( and open end plugged of course ). So lets address that. You have your D6K82-01 dizzy dialed in to 32 degrees total advance so lets see what your total mechanical and vacuum advance will be under cruise ( light load with maximum vacuum ) . Lets see... the D6K 82-01 is a low compression emissions engine, so Nissan equipped it with a 30 degree vacuum can and low static timing ( 6 degree BTDC ). Then you came along and bumped the initial timing from 6 degrees to 15 degrees because = HP!! . Your mechanical advance curve is now good for maximizing fuel efficiency and HP, but lets see what happens when we add in the Vacuum advance. 15 initial + 17 mechanical + 30 vacuum = 62 degrees!!! Houston we have a problem!! What vacuum canister am I going to use? Simple...the original one the dizzy came with. No need to buy a different canister, just reset the limit stop on the present one. Edit: Remember that you want the total mechanical and vacuum advance at cruise RPM to equal approx 50 degrees BTDC . You can adjust that down a bit if you get pinging under light throttle application at cruise. Remove the Epoxy blob with a thin flat plate screwdriver. Just chip it away. After 35+ years I've found that the epoxy has usually gone all brittle and flaky. Re-seal with an RTV blob. Then adjust the inner limiting screw to limit the maximum travel to achieve 18 degrees vacuum advance. 15 initial + 17 mechanical + 18 Vacuum = 50 . There should be enough adjustment to handle all situations. I make a rough estimate and then do a final check with my Dial-back timing light and a Mighty-Vac. Jason Gray's article even tells you how much each mm of adjustment affects timing advance. You can also adjust how quickly the vacuum advance comes in by adjusting the outer threaded sleeve. This can come in very handy on motors with big cams. I'll post some info o that later. These vacuum canister adjustments can be made on any Datsun EFI dizzy. If it has a putty/epoxy blob on the end of the vacuum can, that's a fully adjustable vacuum canister. Lucky us.
    1 point
  8. I can't push a 0.010" feeler between any of them with a 'warm' engine, and everything looks clean and tidy in there. When I have the time I'll take it for a good boot and adjust to 0.010/0.012 while hot. Read on Zcar that 0.001" is equivalent to 5* of cam timing on a stock L24, seems like an excessive amount, but the credentials sound legit. Any idea what Dave runs for lash on his cams, or would it vary each grind?
    1 point
  9. Yea the sound deadening was still in good shape around the transmission hump so I decided to leave it. I will just replace the floor pan areas. All of the interior harness ties were painted white to match, there were a few ties in the engine bay that had torn rubber but I think im going to remove all the rubber off of them and respray them with either plasti dip or black rubberized undercoating. Good eye on the brake hardware I never even noticed that. One side is stainless bolts and the other is black allen head. Not sure if it bugs me enough to have it swapped out or not.
    1 point
  10. Wow HaZmatt! What great progress. I sure wish I had the time to do what you are doing. Keep the pics coming man.
    1 point


  • Forum Statistics

    • Total Topics
      66.4k
    • Total Posts
      664.7k
  • Gallery Statistics

    • Images
      39.6k
    • Comments
      14.4k
    • Albums
      643

    Latest Image
    By ea6driver,
  • Blog Statistics

    • Total Blogs
      167
    • Total Entries
      251
  • Download Statistics

    • Files
      132
    • Comments
      31
    • Reviews
      9

    Latest File
    By NissanMaster

    10    0

  • Vehicles Statistics

    • Total Vehicles
      849
    • Submitters
      663
    • Total Images
      2,955
    • Comments
      35
    • Total Views
      1,295,988

    Mike
    Latest Vehicle
    BMW Z4 By Mike
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.