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Today i have some nice news: Got back my first load of parts from the Zinc plating and yellow-passivating (which makes it look "golden" and also secures it better from corroding: Honestly this was my first attemt ever in doing something like this. so not all parts ended up perfect as i hoped, but however most of them are usable and some of them were for trying anyway only because anything up t 39 kilograms was the same price so i put whatever part i wanted to have replated into the box anyway. Here's a closer look at the colour: So while i was looking at all the nice parts i got a bit motivated and decided to complete at least the fuel cap So i started with cleaning the still nice and soft rubber seal and adding a bit of Vasiline (Petroleum lube / Jelly) Just to make it last a bit longer. After done i put it back to the cap And installed all back together. Yay - first part complete But not only me was productive today, also Yves over at MUC is working hard at the moment and welded back some hand-crafted rocker panels: Still needs a few touches but it looks brilliant compared to what it looked before Here's another view: With the zinc-plating delivery today i got a lot of parts back which i was waiting for to complete the steering rack assembly and the Front subframe parts. So Expect to see a lot of these parts assembled soon

Turn off the censure controls. We are all big girls & boys. We've all heard it & said it. You know, skinned knuckles, smashed fingers, bumped heads. The ZX thread was an interesting, if brief, study. Plenty of other club sites regularly use that kind of language. I found the CZCC members reaction to it entirely appropriate. Please let us control ourselves. We have been doing a good job of it so far IMO. Mark

Just got back from the local Nissan dealer. Today, an older parts specialist was behind the counter. I gave him the part number for the float bowl gasket that was NLA yesterday. He looked it up and asked how many hundred I wanted. I ordered three at $1.70 each and they'll be here Thursday morning. Lesson learned: Always ask for the "old guy" behind the counter when ordering vintage Z parts at the Nissan dealership. Dennis

I was thinking along those lines too. It would keep the diagram uncluttered and still easy to follow. The single bullets and Spade terminals could be added directly to the diagram. I started playing with it already. I also expanded the collection to cover the following: 1: 1970 to Early 1971. 2: Late 1971 to Early 1972 3: 1972 4: Work in progress 1972 Euro/JDM (With rear speakers and Rear separateT/S light) 5: Work in progress 1973 USA (With Seatbelt buzzer) The years (Timeline) may not be correct. Correction welcome. ColorWiring240Z1972USA_Rev_0 24-feb-2015.pdf ColorWiring240Z1971Late_Rev_0 23-feb-2015.pdf

Chuck sent me a picture. The 72 is ready.......this is a cell phone pic......I'll send better pics when I get her home!

Yeah, easy money. They're brightly colored, have a reputation for "performance", and are often cheaper than the OEM bushings they replace. Ooooooo... shiny, "better performance", and cheaper to boot! What more could a 20 year old want? Add that to the list of "stage two" mods that he's made to his car and impress all his friends. Easy money! I'm not poo-poing poly at all. It's just that if you don't understand how they're supposed to work, you're likely to cause more problems than you're solving. Suspension is one of my weakest skills and I'm so glad this part came together for me. Really helped me understand some of the bonehead moves I've made in the past.

started getting a little depressed at the prospect of spending another bunch of cash on lash pads + aftermarket spring keepers, especially since i'm re-building another motor for this car... took a moment to think about it and realized the one thing i hadn't measured was the cam... turns out it was the problem - it's a re-grind with higher lift and smaller base circle, and they dropped it into a stock cam setup. i measured every lobe and compared them to the cam in my original N47 head (the one that came with the car) and put all the data in a spreadsheet to figure out how they related to each other. then, just for kicks, i pulled the cam, rockers and lash pads from the original head and put them in the new one and see how the geometry worked. i kept all the assemblies together (lash pad & rocker w/same cam lobe) and marked the rockers with sharpie to check the wipe patterns. the result: perfect! every rocker wipe pattern lined up exactly as it was on the original head, right in the middle, as set up by the factory in 1978. so i went with it - cleaned everything up, slathered it in the "z paste" that came w/the re-surfaced rockers from delta cams and did a quick polish on the combustion chambers. the N47 cam is internally oiled and the N42 is set up for a spray bar, and i didn't want to mess with doing both and wondering if i had enough oil pressure, so i decided to block off the spray bar outlets with some small aluminum plates and just rely on the internal oiling. i'm hoping to get some time tomorrow afternoon to put humpty back together and see if it all works... the measurements Cam Measurement Comparison.pdf spray bar block-off plates chambers all cleaned up

Nice interview with Mr K.

1st picture looks like a disassembled gun. 2nd picture looks like you want a car like this:

Car: 1973 S30 240Z VIN: HLS30-157796 Build date: 4/73 Orig paint code: N/A Current exterior color: Nissan 350Z Daytona Blue Interior color: Black Only history I know car was prepped for track duty, which I'm continuing to build (RB26DETT). I would love to find the history of this car. I know Carfax may have it but I doubt it. Figured this would be the best place to try.

I like to do my own testing of equipment. So I have a battery load tester and a very good digital volt ohm meter. Sometimes those auto parts stores don't know what they're doing. If you check the voltage at the + terminal of the alt. While it's running should be above 14v at around 2000rpm. If that checks out and don't have at least 14v at the battery, then your issue is a wiring or if u have a voltage regulator between the altternator and battery. Just for kicks, if you check the voltage at the alternator, put the meter to AC to check the ripple current. It should be less than 500mv in my experience.This makes sure the bridge rectifier is doing its job converting a sine wave to square for dc voltage. I'm not an electrical engineer so this is just from experience not education.

From the window sticker: "Drive a Datsun- then Decide" Dealer; Peek Oldsmobile, Cadillac. Decatur, Alabama Model 296 Color 918 Serial No. HLS30-69972 Engine No. L24-087864 Port of Entry 52 MSRP $4,106.00 plus Dealer Prep $75.00, total $4,181.00 Build Date 02/72