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L28 basic knowledge is how to align mechanical timinig. Is rebello outsourcing to datsun llc? This is disgusting to hear.

Not Z related but I stumbled on to this site today and it's pretty fantastic. http://www.earlydatsun.com/index.html

i'm learning that i can only fully trust (and fully blame) myself for what i do. that really increases the satisfaction of doing it right and makes it much easier to deal with when it's done wrong, as i'm never the victim - just the iidiot

Gasoline and styrofoam = redneck naypalm

You should call him so that he can make things right for the next guy.

Carpartsmanual.com has a good selection of drawings. Look in the 240 engine section.

Maybe Dave builds the race engines and Bubba and A.J. have a crack at the public engines.......Ed China would say "This is Rubbish"!

If I were you, I wouldn't even futz with dropping the oil pump and moving it 180 degrees. It ain't going to change a thing! Just remember it's 180 out.....enjoy it.......... IMO

Correct in the case of the B680X, but incorrect in the case of the L20 itself. Lots of other small inaccuracies on earlydatsun.com. Be careful of single-source, non peer-group critiqued websites. Best to cross-reference from multiple independent sources.

He should send him Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild " book, that'd be funny.

Your car looks great, Kats! I wish I had known you were going to speak with Mr. Uemura and Mr. Osawa because I have so many questions to ask them. I have so much more information about that time in 1969 now. By the time they came to America with their cars, the HLS30 was in full swing production. "Testing" the new design was already complete. The American press introductions were during that time. And I wonder how much 'testing' was really the subject of their project. Rather, I am lead to believe, they came to America to drive the cars and show them to Datsun dealers.

So I think I've replied to a similar topic in the past, but will summarize my experience here. First I have a late manufacture 260Z so it was already equipped with an electric pump as well as mechanical. It also had the original convoluted wiring scheme that only turned the pump on under certain conditions. One of my goals of this mod was to be able to "prime" my Webers with the key in the on position. I find that when the car sits for a while the Webers will get dry and the mechanical pump by itself was not sufficient to provide that prime. I did eliminate the mechanical pump entirely. I wanted to be able to use the existing mounting at the back of the car near the tank for the new pump, and managed to find a brand new pump that was a carbon copy of the original one that came with the car. The pump is a Facet / Purolator FEP-60SV and bolts right up to the OEM mounting points. The pump does give off some noise / ticking which is noticeable when I'm priming the carbs and the car is not running. I actually like this as I know for sure that the pump is running, but one my car is started, you don't hear it at all, especially over the exhaust. I completely removed all of the OEM hard lines as well as the return. I run a SS braided line directly from the pump up to the passenger side part of the firewall where it terminates into a FPR I believe made by Summit Racing. From there I run a line from the side output of the FPR around the valve cover where it terminates into a 3 output fuel log which feed each of the 3 Webers. It works great without a return and I've never had vapor lock problems. Hope that helps. Mike.

Nostalgic Hero Now on sale , at the same time The Nostalgic 2 Days is open Saturday and Sunday , my car is displayed at the show. I am so happy that so many people taking pictures of my car. Kats PS The cover of the S20 engine is the limited edition at the show , only 300 this cover magazines are on sale and only available here.