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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/12/2015 in all areas

  1. Yeah,Murphy and I go back aways. I drove car for over half hour and it ran great with only issue being tach not reading under 1000 RPM. I havent been able to find tach resistor yet, I did not have a fusible link at battery,so P\O must have removed it, so I hooked one back in.When problem pops up again, I will let you know. Thanks for advice and help everyone. Its good theres people out there that are willing to share thier knowledge with some of us that are still learning about thier Zs,and care enough to take the time to help school us through some of these problems. I bet half of our cars wouldnt even be on road if it wasnt for sites like these. this is definitly the freindliest Z site.and I think,also the most informative as well. THANKS AGAIN. Ime not going to dissappear like my car issue did. Ive got 2 280zxs that Ime sure something will go wrong sometime or other. If I can help someone else.I will allways pay forward also, so I will be around.
  2. Great point about the friendly folks here. Compared to what zcar.com has become and what HybidZ has always been, you make a great point. Mike you should update the header on the page to: ClassicZCars.com "The friendly Z car site"
  3. I have an account on Hybridz and Zcar and managed to survive reativly unscaved so far. I don't post much, but what I do I tripple check for noobiness before hitting "post". Hybridz is so unforgiving. Here I can babble all I want and seem to be ignored or tolerated, Whatever it is I like it here. Chas
  4. Yep, metal side to header.
  5. I waffled over that for a while but finally went with the metal side to the header. The intake/exhaust side of the head is flat so it seemed best to put the flat side of the gasket next to it, the head is also water cooled so the header might be hotter and need the metal ring. I've put 3000 mi on it with that configuration and no problems so far. Chris
  6. 1 point
    Got this in an email this morning ..... Red Line now offers its own high performance brake fluid perfect for street or track use. RL-600 (PN 90402) High Performance Brake Fluid is engineered to maintain viscosity, lubricity, and compressibility at extreme temperatures to help safeguard against brake fading and vapor lock in racing, performance and street applications. RL-600 blends with and meets specifications of DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1.
  7. There's something I've been meaning to bring up with regards to your A/C install and I kept forgetting. Seeing this post again reminded me. You're looking for a Fast Idle Compensation Device (FICD) to boost your idle while running the A/C. That's the correct part to use. BUT... I don't see any reason why you couldn't repurpose the throttle opener servo instead to do pretty much the same thing. Instead of connecting the actuator hose to the vacuum control valve, you could run a tube over to the A/C vacuum switching solenoid instead. So here I've been trying to show you what the is FICD this whole time, but the more I think about it, the more I think it might actually be easier to find a throttle opener servo diaphragm instead. It's not the RIGHT part, but I think it would work and it's probably much more plentiful. I think every Z from 70 through 74 had one. Even the ones that didn't come with A/C.
  8. I used a drinking straw cut in half. I think a dipstick would be too long and fall out. Maybe a short screwdriver but metal on top of the piston getting bound up would suck. But I'm a little too cautious, it causes me to drink a lot.
  9. Ptero, You seem to have an itch to learn about rebuilds. So..."just do it". My 2 cents is to tear the spare motor down, figure out what's what with it as far as a "racing engine" goes, and do a complete rebuild. These motors are not complicated, parts are readily available, and there are several publications to advise you along your journey...Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine", and Frank Honsowetz's "How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine". These publications are readily available. Also there several members here who are Canadians, eh, who can help you with hands-on help if needed. "Blue", and "Zcars" are two of several of the Canadian Zedders. You say you've never done this. Short story: When I was a younger guy I had a VW beetle on which I needed to have some work done. I was introduced to a book called "How to Fix Your VW for the Complete Idiot". With that book in hand and a factory service manual I learned how to do all my maintenance even to the point of successfully, completely rebuilding my motor. I didn't know doodely about mechanical stuff then. Since then I have successfully maintained a blue-water cruising sailboat and a twin diesel powerboat. I have done all the work on my Zed with the exception of paint and seat upholstery. So, if I can do it, so can you. We here on this site can help keep your chin up when the going gets rough, all these things you contemplate have been done previously by our members here. It's not rocket science. Good luck and keep us informed as to your progress. Cheers, Mike

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