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Well, since there was no seats in the car he didnt want to put it on the dyno. So he timed it and synced the carbs as close as he could. It sounds a whole lot better. Its at the body shop now getting the fenders and hood installed. In the mean time I ordered my seat covers from MSA and will be working on those while the car is gone.

This thread is mainly for me to document the process of refreshing this 1972 Datsun 240z that I was able to acquire with the help of Carl Beck. About a month back Carl posted a Facebook post on onto the Datsun groups, and I immediately inquired about the car. He gave me the owner's contact number, and after a month of jumping through hoops I was finally able to seal the deal and the car landed here on the west coast. It was last registered in 1988 and was a 1 owner car until I purchased it. Backstory is that the previous owner bought it in California enjoyed it here and drove it to Ohio. It sat in the back of his barn until now. Owner has passed away and left the car to his family who hired a liquidation company and...skip all the hoops.. it's mine now. Future plans for it are to follow Carl's advice here: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/21063-waking-the-sleeping-beast/ This thread is worthless without some photos! Hopefully some time later this week, I can post some photos of it unloading and of it after a quick rinse, but for now....

To help pay for my trip i usually bring back some JDM stuff in the suitcase. This trip i picked up some brand new 280z hood vents, calendar clock and 260z jdm tail lites. Has anyone seen one of these? I've never seen an oil pressure with the scale that this one has. Would this crank be salvageable? The rust pits look pretty deep. If you engine builder guys out there think its fixable, I could fit it into my extra big suitcase.

So, one bit at a time my 1970 Z is finding its way back to respectability. Hope to have her back on the road in April. Some progress pics..... Front and rear spoilers are GONE, holes patched and sanded. Body sanded down and excessive bondo repairs replaced with mesh supported fiberglass. Hubcaps coming along (yes, I know they're the wrong ones for a 1970, but I like them). She's running solidly now, and the interior is about 80%. Tail light on the left has been polished and restored, one on right is as they came to me.

Probably not the problem then. The fact that it only short circuits on Start is a giant clue though. I would focus on that. There's a only a couple of circuits that are different between Start and Run. If you can leave it on Run with no problems, but the wire burns on Start, those changes are the source of the short. Maybe the solenoid wire is shorting to the wire that burns. When you hit Start, there's enough juice to power the solenoid and burn the wire. I'd follow that solenoid power wire out and see what it's touching. I have old charred insulation in one of my wire bundles, ugly but no shorts. Someone's past mistake. Maybe you have one of those, but yours went too far.

OK folks I will try to answer the questions in order: Blue: the injectors were new about 18 mos. ago, don't remember the type, but know they wern't for a turbo or high flowing. the whole wiring harness has new connectors and the ones that couln't be cleaned were replaced, male/female etc the FPR is new and fuel pressures: idle no vacuum 36-37 psi with vacuum 30-32 psi the TPS points lighhtly cleaned and adjusted per FSM, not sticking etc. the AFM is stock and the number on it checks out as correct, has new harness connector don't know about the Air Temp Sensor CTS is new and checked per the Bible at the ECU connector and the CTS wiring, OK'd the ground on the EFI harness is ? since I can't find a ground wire after peeling open the entire harness back to the firewall, I know its supposed to be there and ground out on the harness holder. the ECU looks good and the connections are all clean ignition has a good nice blue spark with a new Crane coil, dizzy cleaned up, has no vacuum advance, the vacuum line has been deleted. new battery new NGK plugs and wires Haz: Right on Brother! Carbs in my humble opinion are so much easier, but I really want to keep this at least semi-original. Zed: Resistance readings on #1 test pg 49 of the Bible were 189 ohms, #2 test was 218 ohms and #3 test 112.4 ohms, thus the 12% wrong number. Also see answer above about the CTS. Captain: I changed to another ECU I have and no difference. As for the injectors, they were sold as for the 75-78 280Z, but I can't remember the name or the number, so they could be wrong. I also wish you were closer rossiz: I agree, I had a 76 and it ran like a charm topped it out one nite a long long long time ago at about 170mph on a "dark deserted highway." site: It ran well when I bought the car, but that engine took a crap on me so I have a 79 block with a 75 N 42 head(rebuilt by a guy who does nothing but head work) so its hard to make a comparision. As I have said, the car runs well now, starts right up hot or cold except if it's started cold and left to idle, after about 5 minutes, the idle drops down to about 500 instead of the 900 I have it set at and if driven to warm up the idle stays at 900 so I never let it sit and warm up. I truly truly do appreciate all you guys and women (won't say gals, not poltically correct) that have given me so much help over the last couple of years. I'd been lost and much deeper in debt without you. Thanks. Mike

Did you check at the ECU connector? Or just the CTS itself? You could have a perfect CTS, that's worthless if it's not connected to the ECU. Make a list of all of the parts, and all of the test results, and post it. Something will show. The right parts, with the right numbers, and it has to run right.

Excellent! So now it's on to the next hottest fire I assume. Liked the thumbs up BTW!

Two words....Triple carbs!

Beautiful work! Man is that thing clean. My Z is fairly rust free, but I think I have more rust showing then that one stripped!