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What the condenser does is provide a TEMPORARY low impedance path for the primary current until the points gap is large enough that the "kick back" from the primary is not enough to arc across the gap. That's the nutshell. Here's some detail. Start with some arc theory: 1) It's easier to establish an arc across a smaller gap than a large one.2) It's easier to MAINTAIN an arc than to establish one in the first place. So if you can prevent an arc from forming when the points are first opening and the gap is very small, you might be able to prevent an arc from ever forming at all because the points gap gets wider as the cam rotates and opens it further. in other words, if you can delay the voltage presented across the points gap until the gap is wide enough to withstand that voltage, then you will not get an arc at all. The condenser provides that delay with it's temporary path. The condenser has to be large enough to suppress the gap voltage until the points are wide enough to resist the arc, but as small as possible since any energy that you use to fill the condenser doesn't go into making a spark at the spark plug. The bottom line is you should use the smallest value you can get away with before you start arcing your points. But here's the tricky part... Remember the part about it being easier to maintain an arc than to establish one? That's where the ignition spark performance stuff comes in. You might think to yourself "Heck, I want the hottest spark possible at my plugs and I don't care if I have to replace my points more often to get it. I'm not going to use any condenser at all and that way, I'll get more energy at my plugs." Well, not true... If you don't use any condenser at all and simply let the arc form across the points gap, you're bleeding energy out of your ignition coil through that arc the whole time that arc exists. So by the time the primary energy is no longer high enough to maintain the arc, you've lost a bunch of energy that COULD have been put into a secondary side spark but is no longer available because it went through the points arc instead. So if you can time it correctly such that the condenser is full at the exact same time when the primary side voltage is not high enough to jump the points gap, then you will get a faster change in the primary current and hence a hotter spark on the secondary side. In other words, the resistance to flow through an already established arc is lower than the resistance to flow though a full condenser. Use the smallest condenser you can without arcing the points. Not only will you not burn up your points, but you'll also get the most rapid change in primary current which creates the hottest spark at the secondary. Quiz on Monday.

Well, here is a bit of good news for a change! Scott has his Z back! http://www.thestar.com/news/gta/2015/04/23/owner-reunited-with-his-bluebird-a-stolen-vintage-sports-car.html

Okay, I'm going to revive this thread to get some advice. I just got this lift: http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift. Where should I place the rear lifting pads? I haven't put a Z on a lift for so long, that I can't remember the optimal location.

That is a nice specimen, pure euro spec plus all the triple goodies on the engine.

Nice video, they are getting the well deserved recognition and values are on a spiral.

I think most people confuse exhaust fumes, with gasoline smell. I had the problem to ( windows up and down ), and it went away after I replaced all the fuel lines and gaskets on and near the fuel tank, including the filler neck and gas cap seal. No more smell since. I don't believe it can be exhaust fumes.

Did you notice if the tach is very eratic as well when this happens? If so. Ignition for sure from my experience.

I have a gear reduction starter on my '78. I had replaced it and don't remember whether the original was a gear reduction model. FAIW, I had a Chrysler 318 inboard boat with a massive Prestolite starter that was in fairly nice shape. I would frequently clean out the starter to refresh the armature, brushes, connections, etc., but it would still crank the motor rather sluggishly. My cables were hefty and clean, and I was cranking off of two batteries -- one a starting battery and the other a deep cycle. One day I decided to ditch the pretty Prestolite starter and install a gear reduction starter, and it made all the difference in the world. When I turned the key, the starter would spin the engine effortlessly.

Carbs? Yes? No?