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After a late night putting the 5 speed in, took a 800 km cruise to Kamloops for the week. Averaging 23 US MPG so far on SM needles. Diff clunk 100% gone.

Got the auto electrician around today to fit the JDM Euro Spec tail lights we need over here, change the front running lights to indicators and the headlights to include side lights we also need, and fit relays and resisters where necessary, on Friday it's going for its MOT, Ministry Of Transport Test, every vehicle here must have an annual test if older than 3yrs old, also I received from our friends from Z car Depot, new front and rear bumper rubbers, an OEM passenger door mirror, door gromits, cone shaped rubber that fit in the B post, courtesy light switches ( the push switches in the doors that make the interior lights come on when you open the doors, sorry for the explanation you may call them the same thing ;-) ) Happy Days

An easy way to block the brake booster, is to reverse the check valve on the firewall which is in the middle of the vacuum hose from the balance tube to the booster. It only flows one way (if working properly). I've done this before and works great. You could also disconnect the hose at the check valve and shove a appropriate sized blocking device, and use a hose clamp. Your over thinking your issues. Think methodically, figure out what your actually trying to accomplish and go from there.

After a few degreasing wipe downs I shot some light coats of Rustoleum aluminum silver paint. This really helps keep the aluminum clean and from getting dark from dirt getting buried in the pores of the aluminum. I tried to mask off the valve train but no matter how clean I got the valve cover surface none of my masking tape would stick to it. As I let the paint dry on the head I started cleaning the top of the block. While I was at it I scraped off the carbon on the top of pistons #1 and #6. Probably won’t make a difference but it certainly can’t hurt. Then I went about cleaning out and chasing all the bolt holes with my tap. For anyone that is wondering it is a M10 X 1.5 bolt size. If you are doing this kind of work or anything similar to it, buy several packs of these long stem Q-tips. I found these on Ebay but also discovered Northern Tool carries a variety pack of them as well. They are priceless for doing detail cleaning and easily help clean out bolt holes. That is all for now. I recently received my new turbo head bolts and picked up a can of copper coat. Once I finish cleaning out the rest of the bolt holes I plan to reinstall the head and go through the torque sequence. I am taking my time with all of this work and trying to enjoy it as much as possible. I encourage anyone doing this type of work to do the same as there are plenty of small tasks to take care of in between the bigger milestones. Staying organized and being methodical is the best way to ensure success.

Flat push on retainers for connecting it to the lense. Like these. EDIT: You can see the white plastic on the middle post in that picture. 2nd EDIT: Don't forget to paint the inside with white spray paint. Thanks Dr 240Z.

I used these after grinding down the sides so they would fit. Bought them at a chain hardware store. I didn't buy new trim, just polished up a set but ran into that same problem after I separated the lense from the body. Just an FYI.

My rebuilt carbs from ZTherapy were delivered by UPS at about 7:00 last night. This morning I took a couple pictures (because they will never look this shiny again) and then took them to my mechanic for installation and tuning. I've posted the pictures for those who haven't seen what one gets in the box from ZTherapy. http://tinyurl.com/pgajmmc Dennis

Wrong hubcaps for a 70Z

I collected my 72 from Southamptom Docks in the UK on Tuesday fresh from its 6 weeks of travelling from Spokane WA via LA to there, and bought it home through the worst weather it's probably seen since it was manufactured! So yesterday I gave it a real good clean, Polish, wax and seal, engine bay next.....