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I just wanted to close out this build thread with a huge Thank you to all the members here that helped and inspired me to get through this project. I've seen a lot of these build threads start out strong and end up with the owner selling the car or losing interest, and believe me, I was almost there a couple times. But everytime I had an issue, there was someone here willing to lend a helpful hand. I will still be on this forum checking out everyone's projects and post new things that I've changed or added to my Z but I would say mines pretty much complete. Thanks again! -Matt

I went to my first car show today, and got 1st place in the Datsun/Nissan class! Feeling pretty happy.

I really enjoyed this Discovery episode of Wheeler Dealers 2015. It's about a refurbishment of a 240z automatic into a proper drivers car. If you are interested in seeing a couple of guys swap out an automatic for a 5-speed and do a mild cam swap, this video is for you. Sit back and enjoy this full episode. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8G8s-LwCco

Patience ... I wouldn't do it, the ring radius is different, just wait and get the correct size.

Hey, welcome! Another woman! Woohoo! The gas tank whoosh is probably normal if you're getting it in the heat of the afternoon. The gas cap holds pressure. There's a vent (through the carbon canister) that will hold pressure up to a point and then release anything further. Coolant leaking onto a spark plug is strange. The head gasket ("main gasket?") is located beneath the spark plugs, so I wouldn't think it would be the source of coolant leakage onto your spark plug. Perhaps you have a pinhole leak somewhere, and there's a bit of spray. It wouldn't hurt to replace the hoses. It's more likely you have motor oil leaking from your valve cover onto your plug (not a serious issue). Is the liquid green or brown? Is it sweet? The "hot restart" problem is a known and typical issue with the 280Z. There are several theories. Mine is that the early fuel injection designs were meant for different fuel formulations than we have now, and they had issues even then. When you shut off the engine, heat soaks the injectors, which are normally cooled by fuel. When they get hot enough, they vaporize the fuel, and they will only blow vapor into the intake until they cool off -- not enough fuel to fire the cylinder. The problem is made worse with ethanol gasoline (more volatile than old-fashioned gasoline), and it's even made worse by winter blend ethanol gas (which is even more volatile than summer blend, especially if you have it in your tank when you run the car during the summer). The problem is worst if you let the car sit for 20 min. After about another 15 min, the car becomes much more startable. If you're in a rush, you can hurry the process by popping the hood and letting the engine cool. The design problem was partially remedied in subsequent years by: (1) creating webbing between the intake runners to block airflow from the exhaust ('77/'78), (2) shielding around the exhaust -- between exhaust and intake manifolds and around the exhaust manifold ('77/'78, I believe), (3) putting vents in the hood ('77/'78), and (4) eventually providing a cooling fan for the injectors that runs after engine shut-down (280ZX generation). FAIW, these cars are very easy to work on, although a head gasket might be over most people's pay grade. You can download a Nissan factory service manual from the "reference" section of www.xenons30.com. It's one of the best service manuals I've ever seen -- far and away better than a Hayes or Chilton's. It's what the Nissan service departments would use, but Nissan also sold copies to owners for maybe $80. If you prefer paper, like I do, you can probably find a used one on ebay or Amazon. Make sure it's for your year of car.

I second SteveJ's recommendation. You need to find a mechanic that knows how to work on these old cars. There aren't many out there. Both siteunseen and madkaw know what they're doing and still feel uncomfortable with their mechanics. The trouble starting when hot could be the common "hot start" problem. The "whoosh" could be a modified tank venting system (some people don't understand that the charcoal canister in the engine bay is important no matter how ugly it looks). The leaking "main motor gasket", actually called a head-gasket, is not uncommon after many miles. My 76 engine had a leaking head-gasket. The head was also warped, but in the opposite direction of the leak. That's an example of a how a small job, gasket replacement, turns in to a big one - a head rebuild Unfortunately, many well-meaning mechanics will spend a lot of your money and time before admitting that they don't know how to work on the old L6 and its EFI system. Find that local club. Southeastern USA covers a lot of territory, more details could lead to more suggestions.

I've got a Mexican Orange 240, favorite car of my life.

after a couple weeks worth of chiropractic appointments i'm finally getting to the point where i can actually work on the motor... last night i got the crank & mains in - today i'm shooting for pistons & button up the bottom end

The water pipes are the supply and return for the manifold heater system, that circulates hot coolant through the intake manifold to warm it up in cold weather. It's supposed to have a hot = closed thermostat (so it shuts off when the engine warms up) between the rear of the intake manifold and the metal tube that goes around the rear of the engine, maybe it's there but I don't see it. It's probably good to have in cold weather. Problem with it is the tube that goes through the manifold gets rusty and leaks. The air galley, that rusty pipe that connects to each runner on the exhaust manifold is the most difficult piece to deal with. Mine was leaking exhaust fumes everywhere, had it removed and the holes in the manifold welded up. There are other, more technical solutions that are nicer, search the site - there are photos of how others have done it. The metal tube that's hooked to a tee (other side goes to the brake booster) is attached to the AT modulator on the transmission (with a crappy old 2" rubber hose that needs to be replaced if not done already, otherwise it will fall off and you'll think the tranny is shot). The AT won't work right without it. The rest of those antiques can be trashed in my opinion, no place for them on the Euro balance tube anyway. What is all that stuff?